Sport Jet 90 - ride plate bent and fiberglass cracking

[MastaMyles]

Wondering just how screwed I am. I made a big mistake and purchased a Regal Rush jet boat without really knowing what I was getting myself into. The previous owner claimed everything was in good working order, and I trusted her. After taking it in for what I thought was a tune up I was presented with the bad news about the fiberglass damage in the engine bay, and the damaged ride plate. He said it looks like it was beached, but after some research it looks equally likely that there was a backfire from starting out of water which could have blown the ride plate off and damaged the fiberglass. I don't think the boat is worth enough to get this fixed professionally. Is this anything worth taking on as a project or is this boat a lost cause? I've attached pictures of the damage. I have some other pics if it would help. Any advice is appreciated.

 

[X-17]

Fibreglass repairs are easy as long as you observe two main rules: Cut away whatever is loose/cracked/dirty, and get good anchoring for the repair. Make feathered cuts wherever possible. Add strengthening ribs across joints in engine bay. In this case the cosmetics are not an issue so make a wooden form that you fit from below. Do remember slipping compound on the form. Not sure what products are used these days. Impossible from pics to judge if ride plate is cracked or so badly bent it will crack when straightened, try gentle heating if not cracked already. Or ebay for a good used one. Minimal money but some time and hassle. Good luck.

 

[X-17]

Btw I concur on the backfire. Does not look like beaching unless there is impact damage underneath not visible in pics. Even if beached on grass/mud I would expect some traces of lower front lip of ride plate to be bent down and rearwards

 

[MastaMyles]

Thanks for the replies X-17. The other concern for me is in order to access the damage I am going to need to pull the motor, which I have no experience doing. I can't seem to find any resources or videos of anyone detailing the steps in removing one of these Sport Jet 90 motors, but the mechanic did say 2 guys could easily lift it out. I figure it could be as simple as unbolting it, disconnecting everything, and lifting it out.. but didn't want to just get going if there was more I needed to know. If anyone has any advice it would be much appreciated.

I'll keep an eye on eBay assuming I can't bend that ride plate back, there is nothing for sale right now and a new kit is probably not worth the $400-500 investment at this point, at least until I get the rest in working order. One other potential issue even if I were to bend it is it looks like the screw holes were busted, so not sure if that is even an option once its back to shape.

 

[X-17]

Try to get the downloadable service and installation manual. Good step by step instructions and as they say: "Removal is the reverse of installation" (or was that the other way around ). It is quite easy as long as you have the manual. Btw in your case find the original merc download, not Seloc or similar as they are a bit too generic for you I think.

 

[X-17]

Oh and screw holes: Any damage in the boat simply glass in a suitable embedded type of nut with enough goods to prevent it from twisting. For the plate then a dome headed Unbrako screw with a shim if necessary.

 

[MastaMyles]

Yesterday I removed the hinges from the sundeck so I can swing it fully open, then removed the wooden motor housing and battery from the side of the engine with the damage and I think I can get to it sufficiently without having to pull the motor (pic included). It will be tight and uncomfortable, lying down in a cramped space, but I think better than pulling the motor out.

I tried to remove the ride plate but the screws are very much not budging, will need to try to get something on there to loosen them up. But I was thinking, would it be a terrible idea to try to bend it back with a car jack while it is still screwed on? I don't see any cracks right now, not sure if that method will for sure crack it or just not form it properly. Forgive my newbness if that is ridiculous.

 

[X-17]

The challenge in bending it back is twofold. One, the bending will not be complete so new screws will be under constant load to make it sit flush with the boat. Not a major issue if the boat is solid in places where new screws are put. Second is you will not know condition of boat behind the plate. Having things suddenly giving way when under full throttle may not be much fun. I would definitely remove it.

 

[RedBarron55]

This might help. By the way where are you located?

 

[MastaMyles]

Thanks! This is excellent. I'm in San Diego.

 

[MastaMyles]

I've started grinding down the damaged part of the engine bay with an angle grinder and flap disc. It looks like some of the damage does go all the way through to the other side, which is unfortunate I guess. I've also removed all of the screws from the ride plate aside from one, but the one is a real problem, it is completely stripped and I attempted to use an easy out, which only increased the issue. I think drilling and re-tapping might be my only option for that one, which like everything else I have no experience with. Fun.. I'll post some updated pictures of the ground down damage once I finish and get it cleaned up and hopefully get some feedback with best approach for glassing.

 

[X-17]

It is pretty much a certainty from original pics that some damage is all the way through. Honestly I believe you will have to remove the unit, build a plug for fitting underneath and do a proper job of it.