Beachbummer
Jetboaters Admiral
- Messages
- 4,058
- Reaction score
- 2,976
- Points
- 352
- Location
- Houston TX
- Boat Make
- Yamaha
- Year
- 2008
- Boat Model
- SX
- Boat Length
- 23
So, I just replaced the starboard starter relay with one from DBElectrical via Amazon... and I learned something I wish I knew ahead of time.
The Electrical box has a 4 screw panel in the front that lets you access the positive battery cable powering the computer, in addition the other cable is the positive that goes to the starter...these are both bolted onto the starter relay, (which can't be removed through this window). This window is accesible without removing the ECU from the 4 big nuts in the bilge.
So to easily troubleshoot, without removing the computer, you can bridge these 2 connections and if the starter cranks fine, then you know for sure the starter relay or a related system is involved in the problem. If the starter does not spin correctly after bridging, the issue is NOT the starter relay, since all the relay does is connect these two exposed cables when it receives the signal to crank.
The little window is quite visible and accessible. I had a brief scare that I had opened everything for nothing, as the relay I removed bench tested fine, but it could NOT handle the high load of the starter. I tested by touching these two wires together and the stater spun fine with no issues, so it was the relay after all.
Also, if the starter relay ever leaves you stranded, this is a doable procedure on the water...4 screws, remove the cap, expose screws, bridge the screws with the boat in the ON position, and engine has a chance to start and take you home, if the issue was the relay. Not ideal, but may be an option depending on your circumstances.
Anyway, hope it helps someone.
The Electrical box has a 4 screw panel in the front that lets you access the positive battery cable powering the computer, in addition the other cable is the positive that goes to the starter...these are both bolted onto the starter relay, (which can't be removed through this window). This window is accesible without removing the ECU from the 4 big nuts in the bilge.
So to easily troubleshoot, without removing the computer, you can bridge these 2 connections and if the starter cranks fine, then you know for sure the starter relay or a related system is involved in the problem. If the starter does not spin correctly after bridging, the issue is NOT the starter relay, since all the relay does is connect these two exposed cables when it receives the signal to crank.
The little window is quite visible and accessible. I had a brief scare that I had opened everything for nothing, as the relay I removed bench tested fine, but it could NOT handle the high load of the starter. I tested by touching these two wires together and the stater spun fine with no issues, so it was the relay after all.
Also, if the starter relay ever leaves you stranded, this is a doable procedure on the water...4 screws, remove the cap, expose screws, bridge the screws with the boat in the ON position, and engine has a chance to start and take you home, if the issue was the relay. Not ideal, but may be an option depending on your circumstances.
Anyway, hope it helps someone.
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