Stuck impeller

[SantaFeTrailer]

I went to swap out impellers due to heading to a lower altitude lake next week (or at least, that WAS the plan). The old impeller was a bit sticky removing it, like the threads were a little munged up, but not significantly so. I started the new impeller onto the shaft and it ran about half way down and got stuck. When I say stuck, I mean good and stuck. I can't get it back off either with a 6' cheater bar or the electric impact wrench ( I am firing up the big compressor now, but don't hold out much help).

So now I have a brand new impeller stuck on a shaft, which means buying both as I don't see a way you could save the impeller. Plus, it doesn't seem like I can get a shaft here by Weds AM to save the lake trip. Nuts.

Just venting really, but open to advice as well.



Edit: it gets better. I can't even seem to get the prop shaft out.

 

[SantaFeTrailer]

In the end I cut of the brand new impeller. The first 1/2" of threads on the shaft were very galled, so I ground those down and chased the rest of the threads with a small diamond file. I got it all back together with the high altitude prop, so at least I rescued our lake trip. I'll need to borrow a friend's arbor press to press out the shaft, and buy a new one. Anyone have any thoughts on whether the SBT shaft is worth the premium?

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

In the end I cut of the brand new impeller. The first 1/2" of threads on the shaft were very galled, so I ground those down and chased the rest of the threads with a small diamond file. I got it all back together with the high altitude prop, so at least I rescued our lake trip. I'll need to borrow a friend's arbor press to press out the shaft, and buy a new one. Anyone have any thoughts on whether the SBT shaft is worth the premium?

Glad you were able to salvage your lake trip!

I don’t know if you were using an impact or not when R&Ring the impeller that got stuck on the shaft, always a good idea with stainless to thread by hand. The threads on the new impeller could have been bad as well. My service manual recommends the use of Loctite 572 on the threads.

Low Strength Thread Sealant, 50mL, White: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Low Strength Thread Sealant, 50mL, White: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

 

[SantaFeTrailer]

Oh no, just impact when manual options were failing.

Thanks for the link to the 572. Man they don't give that stuff away cheap do they?

Glad you were able to salvage your lake trip!

I don’t know if you were using an impact or not when R&Ring the impeller that got stuck on the shaft, always a good idea with stainless to thread by hand. The threads on the new impeller could have been bad as well. My service manual recommends the use of Loctite 572 on the threads.

Low Strength Thread Sealant, 50mL, White: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Low Strength Thread Sealant, 50mL, White: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Oh no, just impact when manual options were failing.

Thanks for the link to the 572. Man they don't give that stuff away cheap do they?

Right on…. Some with less ”experience“ would use the impact all the way off and on…been there and paid the price.

I just saw that it says pack of 12… I bought two 50 ml tubes so don’t know where the pack of 12 came from, one is more than sufficient. Yeah none of that stuff is cheap, but it seems to work well.

So this product needs to be cleaned off the threads each time you take it out then re applied before assembly. A pita for sure, but it’s main purpose is to keep those threads sealed and not seize. I also used this product on the mounting bolts that go into the transom, and the cooling water strainer bolts. I went to cabelas and bought a small pistol cleaning kit and used the bore brushes to clean out the thread holes, which works pretty good. I’ve also used a bottoming tap to clean out those transom holes.

I also used the 518 on the mating surfaces of the pump flanges. I bought two 50 ml tubes, and again one is sufficient. This product so far has remained tacky and pliable.

Using these products seems well worth it for the future ease of disassembly. Like you, I’ll be running high altitude impellers for 99% of my boating, but will keep my stock impellers for any future trips to low altitude, and as spares in case I mess up the others.

 

[dan144k]

@SantaFeTrailer
Use never seize.
Don't use the 572.
I galled threads and ruined a shaft and impeller like you did using the 572.
I know the manual recommends it, but search some waverunner websites and people recomend using never seize. Lots of neverseize.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

@SantaFeTrailer
Use never seize.
Don't use the 572.
I galled threads and ruined a shaft and impeller like you did using the 572.
I know the manual recommends it, but search some waverunner websites and people recomend using never seize. Lots of neverseize.

The copper or aluminum type of anti seize?

 

[dan144k]

I think I have been using the copper antiseize. I have both and honestly never paid much attention. I don't know what the advantage of each product would be.

 

[SantaFeTrailer]

What's left on my workbench today.