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Subwoofer Location

skbishop90

Jet Boat Junkie
Messages
389
Reaction score
246
Points
137
Location
Alabaster, AL
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2015
Boat Model
AR192
Boat Length
19
I have a 2015 AR192 and should have my dual battery setup complete soon. I want to run one subwoofer and I need to decide where to mount it. I have seen people mount theirs in the seat bottom behind the drivers seat and in the side of the drivers helm. I dont have any pictures but I need to see which location would sound the best? Any input??
 
Can't help you with this question, but when you have your dual battery set up done I'd like to see how you did it. That will be an upcoming project on mine. For now I'm just making sure I always have my jump box with me.
 
Nice signature text @skbishop90 !!! LOL

"Wife:"I don't need you spending all this money on the boat!"
Me:"Well, I don't need you nagging me every 30 seconds to put the dishes away. But you still do it. Touche."
 
I have a 2015 AR192 and should have my dual battery setup complete soon. I want to run one subwoofer and I need to decide where to mount it. I have seen people mount theirs in the seat bottom behind the drivers seat and in the side of the drivers helm. I dont have any pictures but I need to see which location would sound the best? Any input??

Well are both facing the same dilemma. Have you gotten an answer elsewhere?
 
Ok so where did you install it and how does it sound d?
 
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Where did you get the vents for the sub install? Im going with a 12", May end up building a custom enclosure for under the drivers helm and steal your vent idea.
 
I have read a lot of different audio upgrade threads on here and have not seen many people talk about speaker oscillation induced fiberglass deflection. Now I sound like a geek, ok maybe I am a bit of one. Bottom line is with the install I am wrapping up; even though I cut large diameter 3/4 inch thick hdpe mounting rings for all of my speakers I do still have very slight fiberglass deflection. The back of my sub faces the inside of my outer hull with little clearance and causes deflection there which I am going to rectify by epoxy encaseing aluminum bar to the inside of the hull.

All this to say don't underestimate the need make the mounting area and anything behind it solid as fiberglass does flex and can cause reverb. A sealed enclosure for the sub with a vent is a great idea if you have the space to spare.
 
I have read a lot of different audio upgrade threads on here and have not seen many people talk about speaker oscillation induced fiberglass deflection. Now I sound like a geek, ok maybe I am a bit of one. Bottom line is with the install I am wrapping up; even though I cut large diameter 3/4 inch thick hdpe mounting rings for all of my speakers I do still have very slight fiberglass deflection. The back of my sub faces the inside of my outer hull with little clearance and causes deflection there which I am going to rectify by epoxy encaseing aluminum bar to the inside of the hull.

All this to say don't underestimate the need make the mounting area and anything behind it solid as fiberglass does flex and can cause reverb. A sealed enclosure for the sub with a vent is a great idea if you have the space to spare.
Very well said Sir! There is also an issue of interference with cockpit speakers etc., discussed by @David Analog among others.
That is exactly why I went with ported enclosures, as in the other thread
https://jetboaters.net/threads/budget-stereo-upgrade-for-sx190.8836/#post-159438
 
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Where did you get the vents for the sub install? Im going with a 12", May end up building a custom enclosure for under the drivers helm and steal your vent idea.

I have to give credit to my wife for finding these "boat engine vent enclosures" when I was about to pull the trigger for something similar (but 10x more) out of a boating catalog:
http://www.amazon.com/stainless-ste...psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00
These are really nice quality - the covers have a stainless steel skin and don't look cheap at all. They are bigger than 4" so hold you hole saw until you actually have them in your hands. I remember the guy selling them was quick with shipping and answered some questions I had.

The idea of the vent for subwoofer is strait out of @David Analog catalog when he was running Earmark Marine. I can't find any pics now, sorry, but he posted some here or old site. They carry an extensive selection of vents for that purpose:
http://store.earmarkcaraudio.com/Xcart/home.php?cat=293

@redthumper9 also posted his here on this forum, I don't have the link:
upload_2016-5-16_23-43-27.png
 
@swatski I went to my local best buy last night and checked out thone kicker 10" subs.

I want low frequency bass....very low frequency but those subs only go down to 30hz.

Are there any recommendations for subs?

Specs schmecks! Exactly how low do you want to go? And what if you find a speaker that claims to go down to 20Hz? at what, 1dB maybe? The type of music you listen to can determine how particular you will be, but at 20Hz you are talking about the LOWEST NOTES on the pipe organ.... If you want deep bass response, keep in mind a bass drum, not tuned to a specific frequency, will hover around 50 hertz in general.

You will get massively improved efficiency (bass sound per watt) with the enclosures as compared to IB, but even with the enclosures I think it pays to have it done to specs as most of the lower end bass in a bass-reflex system comes from the port rather than the woofer. That was at least my motivation to get these speakers, as pretty no nonsense for the boat cockpit, and meshing with the coaxials' for quality and power reasonably well. In fact, I'm glad I left the bass volume knob alone (as I wanted to take it out after my WS-420 install) as I still use it to tone it down quite a bit.

A subwoofer in isolation sounds completely soggy and indiscriminate. Not musical in the least. Comparative testing of these is tricky.
As far as Best Buy, that place has its merits but I would not put a lot of stock in what you hear from their “display” equipment…
 
E4EA7485-876F-4683-B323-BD06C63C2DBC.jpeg DDA4BC07-1FAE-4385-8B94-7290BB1CFADE.jpeg I bought this https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Subwoofers/Powered+Subwoofer/TS-WX1210A
Pioneer 12” sealed box. The amp is inside the box. $111 on Amazon. And it is impressive for the money. I wired it to the cigarette outlet wires( same small wires) so it’s on a breaker. It has one plug to unhook all the wires if you want to take out the box.

It hits hard for the money. Really impressed. Nothing like big money systems but my stereo setup in the boat way better now. Shakes the ski mirror and rattles the Bimini top in the down position like a cup of lose screws.
 
View attachment 85310View attachment 85309 I bought this TS-WX1210A - 12” Sealed enclosure active subwoofer with built-in amplifier
Pioneer 12” sealed box. The amp is inside the box. $111 on Amazon. And it is impressive for the money. I wired it to the cigarette outlet wires( same small wires) so it’s on a breaker. It has one plug to unhook all the wires if you want to take out the box.

It hits hard for the money. Really impressed. Nothing like big money systems but my stereo setup in the boat way better now. Shakes the ski mirror and rattles the Bimini top in the down position like a cup of lose screws.

SX998,

I have Rockford Fostgate P300-12 installed in the storage compartment. Mine hits GOOD (need to have the storage compartment door open) for the money! However, I am wondering how my P300-12 will sound where you have it installed.

PS: Dont waste your money on the wetsounds AS-10 sub!
 
View attachment 85310View attachment 85309 I bought this TS-WX1210A - 12” Sealed enclosure active subwoofer with built-in amplifier
Pioneer 12” sealed box. The amp is inside the box. $111 on Amazon. And it is impressive for the money. I wired it to the cigarette outlet wires( same small wires) so it’s on a breaker. It has one plug to unhook all the wires if you want to take out the box.

It hits hard for the money. Really impressed. Nothing like big money systems but my stereo setup in the boat way better now. Shakes the ski mirror and rattles the Bimini top in the down position like a cup of lose screws.

12” is good, sealed is good (ported boxes provide SPL in exchange for quality), Class D is great for a dedicated subwoofer amp. But please wire the amp with dedicated wires and an inline fuse. You probably want *at least* a 40amp fuse with 10 gauge copper wire.
 
12” is good, sealed is good (ported boxes provide SPL in exchange for quality), Class D is great for a dedicated subwoofer amp. But please wire the amp with dedicated wires and an inline fuse. You probably want *at least* a 40amp fuse with 10 gauge copper wire.
Thanks for your concern. It has a fuse and is on a breaker. Gauge is correct size.
 
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