Summerization

[biffdotorg]

Coming from the land of 10,000 Landings and Sandbars, Minnesota, I have a question.

We winterize our boats in the fall. Which includes getting as much water out of all systems to avoid the damage of ice. Most of us grease hubs, lube the necessary drivelines, and change oil. Many change oil in the spring and that's fine as long as it gets done.

Summerization is for Snowmobiles. It usually involves lube, maintenance and oil changes on our 4-stroke sleds as well.

But when I see a southern dealer advertise summerization for $249 WTF are they charging for? Installing my dock and lifts? filling my waverunner with gas? Or do folks down south leave all preventative maintenance and oil changes till spring, since they don't have to worry about winter? I suppose you can ride all winter, so maybe this is a springtime ritual.

But to me, summerization means top that sucker off with fresh fuel, fill a cooler and find a lake with no ice and a landing that has not been ripped up by said ice. The waverunners the same, other than have a fresh set of plugs ready for tank #2 of fuel, as they are 2-stroke.

What am I missing?

 

[Wishfull1]

Wow... seems like a BS charge to me. I change my oil in the fall, so when it comes to spring, I put the battery in and head to the lake.

 

[PJ73]

What the? "Summerization" for me is fill the tank, make sure it starts, put all my crap in it, drop it in the water and go.

 

[Gym]

I would get it if it included changing the oil, cleaning the boat, filling the gas tank and the cooler.

 

[AboveTheBest]

@biffdotorg

That was a fairly long read, do you think you could summarize it for me...?

 

[John Morstad]

I have to agree, but I am also in MN. I do all my heavy work in the fall and just do a quick check in the spring (grease, batteries and the all important full cooler.)

 

[GTBRMC]

Different strokes for different folks, of course. My routine in fall was cleanup, including wash and hull wax, oil change, fog, lube a few points if needed, trailer check & tweak if needed, brief review of and tighten fasteners if needed, then put away happy.

In spring, pull her out, give her once over eyeball, fire up on hose. If good (always was) get her in the drink amd run her gently for a while. If good (always was), open up throttle and burn off any residual fogging oil. Every other year, I would then change spark plugs.

My MR1 engines were a bit different than current engines, but I would never advise anyone to "summerize" a Yamaha. Boats with an outdrive, that's a different matter, of course.

Edit: Forgot to add, I pulled batteries in fall to put on a conditioner through the winter, then reinstalled in spring. Likely forgot a couple other details, will add if I think of any. Ah, yes, @JBehrens post reminded me that I made attempt to put Stabil in the tank before last run in fall to work it through the fuel system, then top off the tank before winter storage (a couple of years the Stabil went in right before storage).

 

[JBehrens]

I guess you could say I fall more on the "Summerization" Camp, I like to service the ski's in the spring.

Last run of the Fall: Clean them up, give a fresh coat of wax, fog the engine, put Stabil in the tank, pull the battery, put it in storage and wait for spring.

First day of spring: Check/charge batteries, drive out to the storage unit with a few brewskis to change the oil/plugs, give a quick coat of wax, fire them up and hit the water. I also take the spring to do maintenance on the trailer, repack bearings, check tires, bunks and brackets, ect.

 

[BlkGS]

I do oil and spark plugs in spring. Never made sense to me to have it sitting with new stuff in it.

 

[seventyeight]

I do oil and spark plugs in spring. Never made sense to me to have it sitting with new stuff in it.

Old wives tales say that the used oil becomes somewhat acidic. I think fogging the engine may reduce concern with rust on the cylinder, but I think I'd go with the better safe than sorry approach. The length of winter in your specific area may also play a factor. Here in MI is pretty much October to May, more than half year

 

[biffdotorg]

And not to belabor the point. Everyone has a routine, and that's cool. My real question (in summary) was what they were charging for. Spring or fall, that's a stupid price!

It's obvious the spring lubing guys are down south. Up here, if we don't pack those bearings in the fall, the winter freeze will literally split a hub if there is water in there. No lie, my father was the worst, and would not pack his bearings, and lose at least one each spring.

 

[JBehrens]

And not to belabor the point. Everyone has a routine, and that's cool. My real question (in summary) was what they were charging for. Spring or fall, that's a stupid price!

It's obvious the spring lubing guys are down south. Up here, if we don't pack those bearings in the fall, the winter freeze will literally split a hub if there is water in there. No lie, my father was the worst, and would not pack his bearings, and lose at least one each spring.

If it was the yearly service $250 is actually not bad for where I am. Dealers usually charge $350 for Ski's, $750 for twin boats.

 

[biffdotorg]

Wow, wow, wow! I'm so glad I bought that $20 oil pump off amazon! I needed another reason to driveway-boat with a beer.

 

[Mainah]

Guess I am going through my getting ready for summer routine right now. Putting aside the mods there are a few things. Reinstalling batteries, lines, vests, fenders, towables, etc. also checking systems function like bilge, ballast pumps. Checking for loose fasteners. Washing the oxidized amd uv degreaded winter wax off (wax is sacrificial) for a fresh coat after a deep cleaning.

This year a few loose fasteners popped up and somehow one of my batteries seemed to have dropped a cell (10.8v resting even though maintained all winter and I tried another charger). It was last years start battery as I have two of the same and swap each year as to start or house. It is at my local interstate dealer now for testing and likely warranty replacement just under the 3 year mark. They did think it odd for an agm but strange things can happen. Keep those receipts guys as mine is going to save me a few hundred bucks (2x group 31 amg interstate batteries were line items on my purchase and sale agreement when I bought the boat).

As for the oil discussion no real need to change at winter or summer if using 4t full syn motorcycle racing oil. Changing every 50 hours is even a bit overkill but it is what I do given the tow sports stress I put on mine. So happens I am right in between changes now so I will wait till I hit that 50 hour interval. As it is easy amd enjoyable enough to do while slipped/lifted on the water drinking a beer and listening to tunes. Also makes warming the engines up easier.

 

[mwalker4]

I just did my 10 hour service and thought how nice it was on a warm day to change oil and plugs. I'm thinking about changing my oil and plugs in June next year. Burn off the winterization in May and early June then fresh oil and plugs for the heart of the season. Any major negative to this thought process?

 

[biffdotorg]

The only negative that folks could think of, would be storing it with any contamination in the oil over the winter. That's the biggest reason most do it in the fall. Is it really an issue, probably not, but that' the argument.

I agree on the plugs through. If you are going to change them, yes, burn through that fogging oil and any stabilization in the fuel. Once fresh fuel is in the system, go drop in a new set. And be sure the check the gap. They will be good 95% of the time, but the second it takes to check is worth it if you are going through the motions.

I would bet most would agree, you can't get a boat more level, than floating on the water. So I like the idea as well. Even though I'm sure I will do it in the driveway again, when the first signs of snow show up this year. It will be my last ditch effort to fight of the inevitable.

 

[Thats]

The only negative that folks could think of, would be storing it with any contamination in the oil over the winter. That's the biggest reason most do it in the fall. Is it really an issue, probably not, but that' the argument.

I agree on the plugs through. If you are going to change them, yes, burn through that fogging oil and any stabilization in the fuel. Once fresh fuel is in the system, go drop in a new set. And be sure the check the gap. They will be good 95% of the time, but the second it takes to check is worth it if you are going through the motions.

I would bet most would agree, you can't get a boat more level, than floating on the water. So I like the idea as well. Even though I'm sure I will do it in the driveway again, when the first signs of snow show up this year. It will be my last ditch effort to fight of the inevitable.

Then we'll be pulling out the sleds hoping for it to just dump snow on us.