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Tire Pressure

txav8r

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I know the answer...50PSI cold. But towing for 1000 miles each way through the desert, seems so high pressure and risky. Having a motorhome now, I have learned more about tires than I ever knew. BUT...I want the consensus from the forum. Do I set 50psi on my shorelandr trailer and go, or do I set 45 and feel a little comfort and cushion on a long road trip? What say you?
 
No help here...but it would be interesting to know what the hot running pressure is, then you could measure what you get to in the desert and see how much (if any) difference there is...????
 
I think you're probably "in the noise" statistically?

In any case I doubt anyone will have done more research than you.

FWIW, I'd probably go 45 if I knew it was really gonna be hot :)

Or, you could really geek it out and hedge at 47.5!

But wait, lower pressure = more sidewall flex = more heat! So, 50! Oh, it's a PITA being "us" isn't it?
 
Yes, I have read the same, do not underinflate. But a max tire pressure cold isn't a recommended "inflation" level. It is a "max" tire pressure cold. I have a TPMS (tire pressure monitor system) system on the coach and bought 4 more sensors for the trailer/toad, whichever I am towing. The monitor will watch both tire pressure AND temperature. My coach front tires are inflated based on axle and total carry weight. I have my front tires set at 105psi and rears at 95psi. I typically see the fronts increase to close to 120psi when running. I will monitor the trailer tires on the trip, but I have no idea what the hot running temp limit is. Any ideas?
 
I'm interested to see what kind of numbers you get on that trip.
 
How accurate is your tire gauge? My two motor home tire gauges differ by 5 PSI.

You should probably weigh the boat and trailer as configured for your typical highway run and check the tire manufacturers recommendation for air pressure.

I run my motorhome at 110 on all 6, but that's what the PO did and I've not gotten a chance to weigh it yet.


good luck,
Steve
 
For what it's worth, I routinely drive through hot territory...from Death Valley to Needles it can easily be 120 where I'm driving. I don't deviate from my normal tire filling procedures.
I just changed the rubber on my tow vehicle and it was around 100,000 miles on that set of tires. Probably the best wearing tire I've ever owned. They had just reached the minimum tread depth and were worn evenly.
The way I look at it is, if they are going to blow, it is going to be due to a road hazard or under inflation before they will fail from tire temp if they are properly filled when cold.
I'm a bit anal about checking things like that just before leaving on a trip of any distance. And I usually have a compressor or can of air with me regardless.
 
I have a compressor built into my coach. And I too have two tire gauges and the TPMS. It scares me how variable all of them are from each other. Even the tire shop that just installed brand new goodyear G670 Rv tires on the coach got two different readings when I asked them to double check them.

I will let you know what readings I see @biglar155
 
I usually use 45psi. This summer I ran 40 (based on some recommendations to get a smoother ride) but got some bad underinflation wear. Looks like I was getting some at 45psi as well. Mean air temp was 30C on average. I am up to 50psi now to try to even out the wear a bit. New tires in the spring I think. Cam.
 
Five read a lot about trailer tire inflation and what-not ever since I got my travel trailer in 2010. I've always had other trailers but was never anal about it until I started towing that for long distances.

This is just what I would do, I have never found any black and white answer for it, but I'd run them at 50 to keep the tire heat down. It has always worked for me and I've towed them close to the tire max weight for long distances in the middle of summer. At every stop (usually about every two hours) I always get out and feel my tires and wheels, I've never felt them overly warm running at max pressure.

When I bought my boat, I drove for about 45 minutes before I stopped and did my walk around, two tires were really warm and those 2 were almost 10psi lower than the other two.

I'm interested to see what you guys determine...
 
Underinflated tires run hotter than properly inflated tires. It makes no sense to lower the pressure due to heat. Thats about the same logic as driving faster to get to the gas station before you run out of fuel.

The MAX COLD rating on tires is not the absolute maximum pressure the tire can handle. A 50psi COLD tire is made to handle more than 50 psi when it heats up. Its pretty well documented that tire failure due to underinflation is much more common than tire failure due to elevated air pressure.

The reason all new vehicles today are REQUIRED to have TPMS systems is to alert you for UNDERINFLATED tires.
 
I tow a lot of different stuff. From tractors, to boats, to travel trailers, to 5th wheels, and various other flatbed loads. I always inflate to the max pressure, regardless of any weather condition. Not saying that I am a expert, it is just what I do. In my opinion, if the pressure is less, then the "bounce" you get at a bump, is harder on the tires.
 
Ok, I get it. But that isn't what we do on our passenger cars and trucks. My Michelins for example on the car are rated max cold at 44 or 45 psi, I forget. But even the tire shops won't fill them, nor will the dealer, to their max cold rating. I keep 40 psi on our Prius because it creates a stiffer tire, resulting in a lower rolling resistance. The rating on those is around 44 psi too. I get that it is a fine line between under and over inflated. But I don't get the mystery. Why doesn't a manufacture just tell you what to inflate them to period? I'll tell you why...because they have no idea what weight they will be carrying, and they are designed to carry a weight range, not just a set weight. Did you know that a tire on a dual wheel setup is inflated lower than a single tire/wheel setup on the end of an axle? It is. Why? Because it is about the weight the tire carries. The heavier the weight (up to the max certified by the tire manufacturer), the more PSI you put in it. Why? Sidewall flex. You want the same sidewall flex at the low weight as at the heavy weight. Now, bias ply and radials are different animals and designed in different ways. This thread is pertaining to, and I will change the title, bias ply tires on trailers. Not that I am not interested in others, but the stock tires on our trailers are bias ply. That said, many have switched to radials. The more I learn about tires, the more I wonder about that decision. And the main reason I wonder is this...the weight range on a radial tire is tight, much tighter than a bias ply tire. A trailer is designed to carry a load. A truck or RV is designed to carry a load. If you drive in the city in your truck all the time with no load in it, you should be carrying less PSI in your tires than you do if you drive that truck at its max GVWR. I don't alter mine often and I don't know anyone that does unless they are at the extreme end of the spectrum. But on an RV, trailer, or other weight varying vehicles, you need to weigh them, each axle, and one side of the unit, to get the individual axle weight and assure distribution is equal across the axle. That isn't something the average guy pulling a trailer will do either, but he should, especially on a long journey.

This is a good discussion. Now I need to consider getting my floor jack under the trailer on the side of the road! We will see a good many two lane roads on this journey, and you can't pull off the road in a 39' motorhome...unless it has a paved shoulder. I like to be prepared and not push a bad position. I think a trailer tire that is 3 years old, only been dunked a couple of handfuls of times, has been stored indoors, and has less than 1000 miles on them should be able to go another 2000 miles easily. They don't have any sun damage or weathering, and they certainly can handle the distance, but after this trip, I expect I will be buying trailer tires for sure. So, bias ply or radial, that will then be the question. On that subject, a smoother ride isn't necessarily the safest ride, but a bouncing tire isn't safe either. Ok, enough, don't overthink this! After Powell, where on earth would I trailer the boat? PNW, Florida, Table Rock...we better make an informed decision, this is a trailer boat! Glad you guys have helped my consider all the angles!
 
The max weight rating of a tire is based on max PSI. The expansion of heat is built into that number already. Running a tire at a lower than max pressure, heats the tire up, lowers its capacity, causes it to wear a bit faster, and creates more drag. I run my toy hauler long distances regularly. I run at max pressure (checked daily) almost always. The only exception is winter travel at times when I will hit ice/snow. I will lower pressure a bit to get a little more rubber on the road, but my speed is slowed greatly during those times as well. Between my previous setup (30' motorhome with 30' enclosed trailer) and my current setup (truck and toy hauler), I have well over 100,000mi of travel with only a single tire blowout.

I realize that you are only talking about 5psi, but when I am loaded and have a tire that is 5psi lower than the rest, I can spot it. My point is that even 5psi changes the amount of sag in a tire, which is causing the tire to flex more going down the road.
 
Mel, I always love your responses! You are one of the most detail-oriented people I know. That is not a bad thing - unless you are trying to decide what PSI to inflate your tires to. :winkingthumbsup"


No matter what you choose, I wish you safe travels!! I have done a road trip pulling the 5th wheel to California and back and a different trip to the Smoky Mountains and back. Luckily we had no issues whatsoever. I hope the same to you, Clara, and Chester! :thumbsup:
 
As the guy that might be piloting my next cross country flight, I am very happy to see how detailed oriented you are!

Mel, were you able to add TPMS sensors to your motorhomes existing system? Is the existing system an aftermarket unit or factory installed? I have a factory system in my truck, and have wondered about being able to add additional sensors for the trailer.
 
As the guy that might be piloting my next cross country flight, I am very happy to see how detailed oriented you are!
100% whole heartedly agree!
 
But even the tire shops won't fill them, nor will the dealer, to their max cold rating. I keep 40 psi on our Prius because it creates a stiffer tire, resulting in a lower rolling resistance. The rating on those is around 44 psi too. I get that it is a fine line between under and over inflated. But I don't get the mystery. Why doesn't a manufacture just tell you what to inflate them to period?
Its because the "proper" pressure depends on the vehicle, not the tire. The tire makers tell you the MAX (cold) pressure because that same tire may end up on different vehicles. The vehicle makers tell you the correct pressure for the vehicle. Its in the owner manual of the vehicle, not the tire (and in the door jam or the trailer tongue)

As you noted, the weight is the determining factor for tire pressure. The "proper" pressure for a smaller vehicle might be 35psi even though the tire may have a 45 MAX COLD rating. In this scenario the Tire Shop is correct to put it at 35, not 45.

But the bottom line is UNDERINLATION is a bad for tires. It is the whole focus of the famous Ford/Firestone exploding tire fieasco and it is the reason TPMS is required on all vehicle now.

You won't hurt a tire by running it at max cold psi even though the "proper" setting may be lower depending on the weight of the vehicle. You *will* hurt a tire by running it below the "proper" setting for that vehicle. For many people its just easy and safe to always run at MAX COLD because it won't hurt the tire but it may give a stiffer ride than necessary, again, depending on the vehicle.
 
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