Trailer braking

[4x15mph]

I have a 2019 OEM galvanized trailer with surge brakes. I disconnected the wiring harness to the truck before backing up and putting the boat in the water since I didn't want the wiring to potentially short when it hit the water. I then realized that without that connected, and without the emergency key attached, I should not have been able to back up since the brakes should have actuated. Is that right? Is it possible I was backing up down hill (ramp) so that is why they didn't engage???

I know that the brakes worked on a flat surface since when I backed up without the wiring attached, the trailer brakes kept me from moving.

Thoughts on above?

 

[mwalker4]

Brakes use pressure. Wont engage backing down hill or sometimes a flat surface.

 

[jjmparsons]

Any chance that contraption (official engineering verbiage) on the trailer where the key goes is sticking? Probably highly "un-probable" but only thing that comes to my mind Sir.

 

[Ronnie]

A quick way to test your surge brake is attach it to you tow vehicle and try backing up a hill or drive way. If it’s working your wheels should lock up or at least become very difficult to move.

I only need the D key in place when backing up a driveway and sometimes when the ramp has an incline to it (but usually I will just power the boat up the ramp with the wheels locked up for the few feet it is long).

FYI - The blue wire on the trailer harness is supposed to attach to the reverse lead on the tow vehicle so when you put the vehicle in reverse it electronically disengages the surge brake solenoid but mine never work, it they did I would not ever use the D key (the lights are water proof and the harness connections should never touch the water).

 

[Julian]

FYI - The blue wire on the trailer harness is supposed to attach to the reverse lead on the tow vehicle so when you put the vehicle in reverse it electronically disengages the surge brake solenoid but mine never work, it they did I would not ever use the D key (the lights are water proof and the harness connections should never touch the water).

This is probably because it it wired wrong or not getting enough voltage. You can trick the system into disengaging vs using the "Key" if you are using a flat 5 connector. The steps are:

1. Turn on the vehicle lights
2. turn the connector sideways and connect the last pin (blue wire) to the running lights wire (brown wire) on the tow vehicle side.
3. Voila...your brakes should disengage without using the PITA key!

 

[Ronnie]

@Julian , thanks I will give it a try this weekend. I have a magnetic D key so it doesn’t fall out when I shift into a forward fear but I usually have to chalk the trailer wheels to get the surge brake enough to put the key in. If all I have to do instead is flip the 5 pin connector so the blue wire gets current from a different lead I am all for it but I have a feeling the solenoid is just bad. I will report back after this weekend.

 

[4x15mph]

Thanks all. I think my situation is due to the fact this is backing down a ramp and therefore no pressure. This is good since I like to disconnect the wiring before going in the water (when I remember).

 

[Julian]

Thanks all. I think my situation is due to the fact this is backing down a ramp and therefore no pressure. This is good since I like to disconnect the wiring before going in the water (when I remember).

I probably should disconnect when reversing into the water, but I don't. The new LED lights on trailers don't get anywhere near as hot as the old ones used to, and as such their seals remain solid much better.....

But yes, you are correct....reversing slowly down hill won't engage the trailer brakes.

 

[swatski]

Is that right? Is it possible I was backing up down hill (ramp) so that is why they didn't engage???

Yes!

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