Trailer hitch adjustment?

[mrcapi937]

As the weight shifts it knocks when accelerating from a stop. On a normal trailer I would adjust the hitch coupler making it a little tighter on the ball to see if that would solve the issue. I don't see a way to adjust the coupler on this trailer. Any ideas? Or this normal for this type of trailer?
Thanks

 

[MrBubbaGump]

Does it have surge brakes?

 

[mrcapi937]

Yes the trailer has breaks but my vehicle does not have breaking for the trailer. It’s a 2022 Shoreland’r BT

 

[MrBubbaGump]

This is common the clucking on acceleration with surge brakes, however over time it can become much more aggressive. If it is a large clunk when accelerating from a stop then you should first check that there plenty of brake fluid in there. There should be a black cap on the tongue of the trailer open that and make sure its full. Unlike brake fluid in your car trailers brake fluid tends to evaporate so you should be checking it often and adding as necessary.

 

[kgower]

This is common the clucking on acceleration with surge brakes, however over time it can become much more aggressive. If it is a large clunk when accelerating from a stop then you should first check that there plenty of brake fluid in there. There should be a black cap on the tongue of the trailer open that and make sure its full. Unlike brake fluid in your car trailers brake fluid tends to evaporate so you should be checking it often and adding as necessary.

What should you fill it with, DOT3, DOT4, something else?

 

[MrBubbaGump]

It should be just DOT3, you can look up the manual for that particular model or it should be stamped somewhere either on the cap or near it.

 

[kgower]

It should be just DOT3, you can look up the manual for that particular model or it should be stamped somewhere either on the cap or near it.

Thanks, will check next time I take the boat out. Have about 4500 miles on the trailer in 13 months, probably needs a fill.

 

[sunbyrned]

This is interesting to me because mine just started doing this. But it was just after I did two things so I’m wondering if they are factors. One, I just raised the level of my hitch and now the boat rides higher than it has been and I think it maybe too high. And 2) I didn’t tighten the ball because I didn’t have a wrench on me. I’m thinking the clunk I’m hearing is just the loose ball. Maybe check those two in your situation. I’ll check the brake fluid level too though. Maybe by raising the trailer it caused the fluid to adjust.

 

[d_coyne1984]

With surge brakes, there is a brake cylinder in the trailer tongue that compresses when the trailer pushes against your vehicle when you apply the brakes, thereby activating the trailer brakes. That clunk is what happens when you accelerate and the tongue extends back out and hits the end of the forward travel. I try to anticipate my starts and let off the brake a little early so that when it comes to hit the gas, I have already almost completely extended the coupler back out just by the truck rolling forward to eliminate the hard clunks. That sound makes me cringe because it can't be easy on either the vehicle or the trailer/boat.

 

[biffdotorg]

Yes the trailer has breaks but my vehicle does not have breaking for the trailer. It’s a 2022 Shoreland’r BT

This has nothing to do with your vehicle having a brake controller. Surge brakes were designed to work with any vehicle as they actuate themselves. d_coyne1984 gives a great description of how they work. Electric brakes require a brake controller on the tow vehicle.

 

[jgourlie]

This is common the clucking on acceleration with surge brakes, however over time it can become much more aggressive. If it is a large clunk when accelerating from a stop then you should first check that there plenty of brake fluid in there. There should be a black cap on the tongue of the trailer open that and make sure its full. Unlike brake fluid in your car trailers brake fluid tends to evaporate so you should be checking it often and adding as necessary.

Thanks for this tip. Just checked my fluid and it’s dead empty

 

[Cambo]

That sound makes me cringe because it can't be easy on either the vehicle or the trailer/boat.

That sound is the brake actuator rollers hitting opposite ends of the total travel it sounds bad but its designed with very large rollers that can take a beating . I have seen no metal defection from this going a few seasons with no brakes. It is a good sign that the brakes are not operating correctly when you do hear it.

 

[Bruggar709]

With these type brakes do you need to insert the little bypass piece when backing up so the brakes don't apply and stop the trailer?

 

[sunbyrned]

Yes. A couple points about that. Sometimes you’re not on an incline and the trailer won’t have the gap that you need to insert that piece. Rather than drive around trying yo find an incline, just chock the trailer tire and move forward a bit and the gap will open up. )Tool me a while to figure this out.) Second point is to get a magnet to help hold that in place when you need it. It can fall out and it’s a pain to keep dealing with it. Just place the magnet over the insert ab into the trailer. Be sure to remove when you don’t need it or else the brakes will be disengaged and the boat can push you on a downslope. One last thing. Some folks have pins for their trailer light connector harness which will allow the boat to back up without having to use the insert. That would be ideal if you can do it.

 

[Bruggar709]

Yes. A couple points about that. Sometimes you’re not on an incline and the trailer won’t have the gap that you need to insert that piece. Rather than drive around trying yo find an incline, just chock the trailer tire and move forward a bit and the gap will open up. )Tool me a while to figure this out.) Second point is to get a magnet to help hold that in place when you need it. It can fall out and it’s a pain to keep dealing with it. Just place the magnet over the insert ab into the trailer. Be sure to remove when you don’t need it or else the brakes will be disengaged and the boat can push you on a downslope. One last thing. Some folks have pins for their trailer light connector harness which will allow the boat to back up without having to use the insert. That would be ideal if you can do it.

I have a 5 flat harness and my under standing is that the fifth wire is for the solenoid that allows you to back up without having to use the back up tab, is this correct?

 

[biffdotorg]

I have a 5 flat harness and my under standing is that the fifth wire is for the solenoid that allows you to back up without having to use the back up tab, is this correct?

That's the correct answer. Yes, you want that fifth pin connected, as when your reverse lights engage, it locks out the brakes as if you had put the lock out in manually.

 

[scokill]

As mentioned, a clunk sound is a good indicator of a worn out master cylinder or you need bleed brakes. There is also a piston that keeps forward pressure on the actuator slide. I have a brand new slide assembly and it doesn't clunk. I also have a lockout that has magnet built in. Comes in handy. Sometimes the solenoid doesn't want to disengage the pressure. https://www.amazon.com/Noa-Store-Su...5f-ba9c-cad4265ace2f&pd_rd_i=B07DPQMBMZ&psc=1

 

[MrBubbaGump]

With these type brakes do you need to insert the little bypass piece when backing up so the brakes don't apply and stop the trailer?

No that is only if your vehicle doesn't have the proper connection for the 5th pin or the electrical system fails.

 

[Bruggar709]

No that is only if your vehicle doesn't have the proper connection for the 5th pin or the electrical system fails.

Would all trucks with the factory 7 pin connector be wired already for the 5th wire for the reverse on trailers with surge brakes?

 

[MrBubbaGump]

Would all trucks with the factory 7 pin connector be wired already for the 5th wire for the reverse on trailers with surge brakes?

Yes