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Trailer hitch

n1111z

Jet Boat Addict
Messages
151
Reaction score
88
Points
97
Location
Cape Coral, Florida
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2018
Boat Model
242 Limited S E-Series
Boat Length
24
Can anyone tell me what "class" of trailer hitch is appropriate for a 24 foot Limited S? Thanks.
 
Class III or better (IV, V, etc.).
 
Sorry, I didn't realize you had replied right before I did.
 
Class III is up to 6k GTW.
Class IV is up to 10k GTW.

Dry weight of an AR240 is ~3600 lbs. Add trailer, fuel, toys and I generally like to figure 5k for safety. Therefore, I recommend III or better.
 
No worries, @Toby ! All trying to help are welcomed. You can even disagree with me if you like. No worries.
 
All good. Was figuring more like 6k plus only from another thread I had read where someone had added up fuel, trailer, etc and came up with 6,300-6,500. I never really had to worry since my factory hitch was IV. Just want to add to make sure the receiver insert matches as well. Some only go to max 5k. Never seen one break personally but you never know.
 
You need to check your receiver hitch. Do not assume your Class III is rated for 6,000 GTW, it depends on the vehicle too. There should be a label on the hitch what it's rated for. My Class III was rated for 5,000 lbs on my F150 factory tow package which was fine for my AR192 but not rated for my new boat which will be ~6,500 lbs or so loaded with fuel and gear. I bought a Curt a Class IV from etrailers last night and it's already shipped and waiting to be delivered on Monday.

image.jpeg
 
Wow! They labeled that a Class III, @haknslash ? That is bad. I didn't think they could do that. Best advice to check the actual weight rating, though. And of ALL parts (your rating on the receiver, hitch, ball may all be different--all need to be above what you are towing, of course).
 
Yup. That's why I'm upgrading to the Class IV, it's funny how all these truck brands use marketing to mention what they can tow but the numbers they often use are with a WDH, which nobody uses with a boat. They put crap on there so you have to upgrade if you want to tow something of marginal weight.
 
You need to check your receiver hitch. Do not assume your Class III is rated for 6,000 GTW, it depends on the vehicle too. There should be a label on the hitch what it's rated for. My Class III was rated for 5,000 lbs on my F150 factory tow package which was fine for my AR192 but not rated for my new boat which will be ~6,500 lbs or so loaded with fuel and gear. I bought a Curt a Class IV from etrailers last night and it's already shipped and waiting to be delivered on Monday.

View attachment 90059
Did you receive your class 4 hitch from Curt's, and if so, is it actually rated to tow more than the 5000 pounds like the original on your F150.
 
Did you receive your class 4 hitch from Curt's, and if so, is it actually rated to tow more than the 5000 pounds like the original on your F150.

It’s made by Curt. I ordered it from etrailers website. It is rated for over what the stock Class III is. I’m at work and can’t give you specifics of it’s ratings but I’ll let you know tonight when I get home exactly what it’s rated for.
 
It’s made by Curt. I ordered it from etrailers website. It is rated for over what the stock Class III is. I’m at work and can’t give you specifics of it’s ratings but I’ll let you know tonight when I get home exactly what it’s rated for.
Thank you, I was on their website last night and couldn't find a hitch for my 2017 F150 with the higher rating.
 
While you're at it, also check your trailer ball. Most of the cheap ones you get from Wall-Mart and the like are only rated for up to 5,000lbs. I picked up a 7,500lb ball from the local U-Haul Store. I also like their ball as it they come with a cotter-pin on the nut...so you don't have to worry about that thing coming loose on ya...
 
A Class III hitch should be good for 5000 lbs as is a class IV without a Weight Distributing Hitch on almost any Ford Truck.
The key point here is over 5000 lbs a Weight Distributing Hitch is required equipment and is covered by the * on the truck ratings (Properly Equipped *)
 
A Class III hitch should be good for 5000 lbs as is a class IV without a Weight Distributing Hitch on almost any Ford Truck.
The key point here is over 5000 lbs a Weight Distributing Hitch is required equipment and is covered by the * on the truck ratings (Properly Equipped *)
You keep pointing this out. But WD hitches do not fit with most all boat trailers. Yes, you could use an adapter but then you are modifying which invalidates ratings.

Every single 240/242 Yamaha sitting on factory trailer weights above 5,000lbs.
I have yet to see one use WDH.



 
Then you have yet to see a boat trailer over 5000 lbs that meets the truck manufacturer's requirements for over 5000 lbs.
Here is a link to the eTrailer page on adapters for boat trailers.
Using a Weight Distribution System on a Boat Trailer With Surge Brakes | etrailer.com
A quick google search will find many other links.
You don't have to use one as it is only necessary to meet the new SAE towing specifications for the safe handling of the total rig.
You must check with the rating from the manufacturer for the proper equipment for your weight and the model and equipment for your truck.
Many, many people don't realize the need for one and if they do they choose to ignore the problem.
Hear are a few of the adapters for single shaft boat trailers.
If your rig is over the weight that your truck is rated for without a WDH and you have an accident this might affect the outcome.
Boat trailers generally have a longer distance from the wheels to the pin and tend, therefore, to be more stable, but that really has no effect on the manufacturer's recommendations for proper equipment
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@swatski what would need to be modified that could result in warranty issues re: a WDH?
 
Warranty on what part?
If the boat trailer will not stand up and they rate it over 5000 lbs then they would have a problem.
In the past the problem with WDH on a boat trailer was surge brakes and the chain type hitch not allowing the tongue to move and actuate the brake cylinder.
The newer style allows the bars to slide in hitch mounts and also provide anti-sway benefits as well.
I don't need one on my Hobie Jet Skiff and Continental Trailer, but with my 16' Scamp and Chrysler Town and Country I do as the T&C requires a WDH towing over 1800 lbs even though the mini van is rated 3500 lbs.
It makes a difference in the comfort of the ride and handling.
 
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