Trailer light connection

[beachbum]

Now that I have had all winter to read all my owners manuals (twice)... I see Shorlander suggests disconnecting the trailer lights before submerging at the ramp. This would defeat the lockout wire for my surge breaks and require the use of the lockout key at the ramp.

 

[Andy S]

I don't anymore because led trailer lights. When I had a trailer with open incandecent lights I would disconnect to prevent the cool water from blowing the hot light.

 

[Seadeals]

Same for me. I don't bother disconnecting with LED. Even keep them on in the water sometimes for dusk loading. The surge brake lockout does not play into it much once you have her aimed at the ramp. Tow vehicle brakes are keeping the boat from pulling it into the water so the tongue is usually already extended unless you have a big bump (curb-oops) or something.

 

[Magic]

Always.....also because we had our connector cable stolen once.... Pull the cable and keep it in the truck....

 

[Rigger]

I keep it plugged in. Fortunately we don't have to worry to much about our connector being stolen. And I use the a JetConnex. I'm sure I just jinxed myself now

 

[Glassman]

Hmmmm, connected? You mean it's not supposed to leave big black skid marks as you back down the ramp?

I thought that was a safety feature so my boat wouldn't drag me into the water!

 

[biglar155]

Our ramp has enough room that I can get the boat on the down-hill, trot out and disconnect, and then finish backing in.

'Course there are 8 spots to launch and we avoid busy days so the extra couple of seconds won't increase anyone's wait time.

 

[beachbum]

Our ramp has enough room that I can get the boat on the down-hill, trot out and disconnect, and then finish backing in.

'Course there are 8 spots to launch and we avoid busy days so the extra couple of seconds won't increase anyone's wait time.

Sorry for being a newbie ... but I am ... once you are on the downhill with the surge breaks... you don't require the signal to the actuator in the break ... unless you hit a hole or something that would "jar" the system?... is that right?...

I like that i could disconnect at the ramp... the little key thingy sounds problematic ... not sure if I have LED lights or incandescent, but I think Incandescent...

Will know more in a couple of days...

2 more sleeps until I pick up the boat.

 

[-klb-]

Even on the level, if you are smooth, you can often back up with no connection and no lockout key. Backing down hill shouldn't be an issue at all, as the slope should be pulling the surge actuator fully extended.

 

[biglar155]

Even on the level, if you are smooth, you can often back up with no connection and no lockout key. Backing down hill shouldn't be an issue at all, as the slope should be pulling the surge actuator fully extended.

Agreed. As long as you go slow, you can actually get away without the lockout key or the electrical connection. If you try to "give 'er" too hard, then you'll compress the actuator and your brakes will grab.

@beachbum : The brakes are designed to activate when the actuator (which is part of the trailer tongue) compresses. So when you're tooling down the road and you begin slowing down the tow-vehicle, the momentum of the boat/trailer wants to push the tow vehicle. This compresses the actuator which makes the trailer brakes grab. There's only an inch (maybe?) of movement.

There is also a miniature shock-absorber in the actuator that is designed to prevent the trailer brakes from going into an on-off oscillation. As long as this little shock is still good, you should be able to back up the trailer w/o the lockout as long as you take it slow and don't have to go up-hill.

I hope this made sense. Due to lack of sleep I don't seem to have my usual grasp of the English Language for some reason today. I hope it comes back considering it is the only language I know...

 

[Gym]

I usually disconnect but sometimes forget if the ramp is busy but have never had any bulb issues with the incandescent bulbs. Our ramp it smooth, level hot top till you hit the down slope of the ramp so the brakes are not an issue. Saw a guy backing down a sand ramp once while disconnected. Wasn't a pretty sight. He cut some pretty deep ruts all the way down the ramp to the water which pissed off everybody else.

 

[jdonalds]

No. I used to disconnect but forgot many times and didn't have loss of lights. For me there's nothing to lose, nothing to steal. I used to boat (well jet ski) in salt water most of the time, now only fresh. No problems after 8 years. My lights are standard incandescent.

 

[jetboater4life]

I keep it plugged in. Fortunately we don't have to worry to much about our connector being stolen. And I use the a JetConnex. I'm sure I just jinxed myself now

JetConnex, yet another mod to spend my money on. I added it to my mod list.

 

[Ronnie]

I leave them connected out of habit and because I'm lazy. I also have LEDs on my boat and waverrummer trailers but rarely had the standard / incandescent bulbs fail on me when I had them which is most of the last 25 years.

I think disconnecting and having the surge. Rakes engage is only an issue if you have to back up a slope before backing down the ramp.

 

[KXCam22]

I have never disconnected with incandescent or LED. No issue ever other than the POS MFI stock lights. I don't see the reason to disconnect. Cam.

 

[DoubleThrust]

LEDs have thankfully taken the need for this one extra step off my list also. Love 'em.

 

[DoubleThrust]

I have never disconnected with incandescent or LED. No issue ever other than the POS MFI stock lights. I don't see the reason to disconnect. Cam.

Consider yourself lucky you don't pop bulbs all the time then!

 

[Murf'n'surf]

Consider yourself lucky you don't pop bulbs all the time then!

The rear bulbs are enclosed in an airtight bubble. No chance of a hot bulb contacting cool water. Even on trailers i use that don't have bubbles, I've never had an issue. I have never disconnected and do not see a reason to unless your ramp requires you to back in so far that your plug will be under water.

 

[Volffas]

Non LED lights. I have never disconnected and I have never had any issues.

 

[KXCam22]

I don't think its luck. On my old boat the light bulbs were essentially open to the water, no water-tight bubble. I cleaned and greased the bulb sockets and put new bulbs in when I got it and that was the last bulb maintenance I recall having to do. You would think that a hot bulb would pop when it hit the water but mine never did. I guess either the brake lights bulbs don't get that hot or the open shorelander fixtures cooled the bulb enough so that it didnt matter. My stock MFI light were a disaster and I generally had to replace a bulb each outing. The waterproof capsules only kept the water in. LEDs are soo nice. Cam.