Trailer Questions

[Peter simon]

So my 2019 came with the Shorelandr galvanized trailer. Two questions?

I want to get the retractable stern straps. Are there certain ones i should get? Do they work well?

I noticed they come with the bearing buddies. How often do i need to add grease? Check them?

Thank you.

 

[SCP1]

So my 2019 came with the Shorelandr galvanized trailer. Two questions?

I want to get the retractable stern straps. Are there certain ones i should get? Do they work well?

I noticed they come with the bearing buddies. How often do i need to add grease? Check them?

Thank you.

https://www.amazon.com/BoatBuckle-S...36_SY340_QL65&keywords=boat+buckles+stainless

This is what most people have, I didn’t go with stainless as I don’t hit salt water. Only other advice is buy new hardware as people have complained about the cheap hardware stripping.

 

[njmr2fan]

I didn't get the stainless ones either, but I do regularly spray them with WD40 to drive away moisture and keep them from corroding. Depending on how much you trailer, I would check your bearing once a month. I usually check mine when i'm washing everything off once back from the lake.

 

[Peter simon]

Thank you for the info.

When you check the bearings what are you looking for and how do you know if you need to add grease?

 

[zipper]

Thank you for the info.

When you check the bearings what are you looking for and how do you know if you need to add grease?

When you need to add grease you will notice that the black rubber/vinyl cover will slide or push out from the hub, visually signaling the need to add grease. In the picture below the black cover has been removed. The blue section is the part that will slide or push out. First pic. needs grease, second pic. full.


They work well. The problem my trailer was having was that after 10yrs. The piston in the brake caliper seized causing excessive heat in the hub and the bearing buddy to pop out and grease to sling out on the rim/tire when it lost the black cover. I replaced both the caliper and the bearing buddy on that side. All good since. Both pics. Are of the old part before replacing. New buddy not a greasy mess.

 

[d_coyne1984]

I trailer about 2.5 hours each way very frequently. I am very good about checking to see how hot the hubs are after a little bit of driving and at the end of each trip. If they are getting hot to the touch you should remove the bearing buddy and inspect the bearings. I typically only add a few pumps of grease until the piston starts to move in the spring time and then just check them regularly for heat. Mine don't have the blue indicator. If you over fill you can blow out the rear seal. I've completed 4 seasons now so I will probably consider taking the hub apart, remove the old grease, clean/inspect the bearings, and reassemble with fresh grease before spring. It's very simple to do, just a messy bitch.

 

[Betik]

it kind of depends how many miles you tow how often you dip and if it is salt water or not.
I tow 25 miles from home, so I just put grease at the beginning of the season and simply keep an eye on them. As long as there is not grease all over the rim then I am goof for the whole summer.
If I were to get out of town, I will typically add grease. Like when I go to Florida I will put some prior to the trip and most likely somewhere around Mobile Alabama.

One more thing, I believe it will not hurt if you put marine grease instead of regular grease. Apparently the marine one does better job a repealing water. Though I have not done much research on it.

 

[Peter simon]

Thank you all. For the most part i dry dock my boat at a marina about 200' from the ramp. I plan on taking some long trips this year and will check before I leave and once i arrive.

 

[thepiratemorgan]

Shoreland'r recommends calcium sulfonate based grease (vs. lithium based) for the bearings because of it's superior hydrophobic and heat resistant properties over lithium.
I found Peak Synthetic Marine Grease at Pep Boys here--->

https://www.pepboys.com/peak-synthetic-marine-grease-14-oz-cartridge/product/574648?quantity=1

to be a good value, as well as Traveller Brand at Tractor Supply here--->

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/p...te-nlgi-2-grease-14-oz-cartridge?cm_vc=-10005

As far as the bearing buddies, if you press on the nipple and piston and you can compress the spring behind it, then you are good to go. If it's completely grounded to the back of the seat, time to add more grease (usually 1/8" movement between full and empty). You want that nipple to be sticking out from the hub just a wee bit, or at least flush.

Per Shoreland'r User Manual ---> "Check the hub lubricant level by pressing on the edge of the spring loaded piston inside the bearing protector itself. If you can move or rock the piston, the hub has sufficient grease. Don’t add any more! This simple check instantly tells you that the hub is full of grease. If the piston cannot be moved, it’s time to add grease. Use a hand operated grease gun only, not a pneumatic or air driven grease gun; they will apply too much grease too quickly into the system. Add only enough to move the piston outward until it rocks approximately 1/8”; 2-3 pumps usually is adequate."

As for stern buckles, I don't use them, no comment...sorry.

 

[mrdubean1]

ASSISTANCE PLEASE! Trailer strap tie down question: I have a 2020 SX190, added the Stoltz bow roller when I bought the boat, and trailer from the ramp back home all the time. I replaced the strap tie downs from the original because I noticed that they came loose every time upon arriving at the ramp. I travel 30 minutes to the ramp, local roads.
I purchased retractable ratchet tied downs, added them properly. I also purchased another set of tie downs (800 pounds rated), and have used both, and BOTH are loose by the time i arrive at the ramp! There isn't any room between the bow and the Stoltz bow roller, it is completely flushed and unable to move. I attach the tie down properly, yet it still comes lose. I dont get it. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

 

[d_coyne1984]

ASSISTANCE PLEASE! Trailer strap tie down question: I have a 2020 SX190, added the Stoltz bow roller when I bought the boat, and trailer from the ramp back home all the time. I replaced the strap tie downs from the original because I noticed that they came loose every time upon arriving at the ramp. I travel 30 minutes to the ramp, local roads.
I purchased retractable ratchet tied downs, added them properly. I also purchased another set of tie downs (800 pounds rated), and have used both, and BOTH are loose by the time i arrive at the ramp! There isn't any room between the bow and the Stoltz bow roller, it is completely flushed and unable to move. I attach the tie down properly, yet it still comes lose. I dont get it. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

That's normal for the 190/192's. I'm not sure why they settle so much, but they all do it. My guess is the boat could use a little more support than what is designed into the trailer. My best advice is to stop after a couple miles and retighten.

 

[zipper]

I have a different trailer, but does the bow stop move forward and aft. With no load on the bow strap, can you move it with your hand? I had to thru bolt mine on my MFI to stop the movement. Once I bolted it...the boat landed on the same spot on the trailer, tight against the roller. The factory straps have stayed tight since the boat and the stop do not move anymore.

 

[SCP1]

ASSISTANCE PLEASE! Trailer strap tie down question: I have a 2020 SX190, added the Stoltz bow roller when I bought the boat, and trailer from the ramp back home all the time. I replaced the strap tie downs from the original because I noticed that they came loose every time upon arriving at the ramp. I travel 30 minutes to the ramp, local roads.
I purchased retractable ratchet tied downs, added them properly. I also purchased another set of tie downs (800 pounds rated), and have used both, and BOTH are loose by the time i arrive at the ramp! There isn't any room between the bow and the Stoltz bow roller, it is completely flushed and unable to move. I attach the tie down properly, yet it still comes lose. I dont get it. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

Drive a mile or two, stop and tighten the straps. Once tight they then should stay tight.

 

[d_coyne1984]

I have a different trailer, but does the bow stop move forward and aft. With no load on the bow strap, can you move it with your hand? I had to thru bolt mine on my MFI to stop the movement. Once I bolted it...the boat landed on the same spot on the trailer, tight against the roller. The factory straps have stayed tight since the boat and the stop do not move anymore.

I never considered that when I had mine and that makes a lot of sense as far as the straps loosening up. That is definitely something to consider. Good call.

 

[mrdubean1]

Drive a mile or two, stop and tighten the straps. Once tight they then should stay tight.

will try and lets see what happens. Thank you

 

[njmr2fan]

I ratchet down in the lot after I pull out of the ramp lane. Then within 100 yards ill pull away and do a light brake check to seat the boat. I re tighten the ratchets and there's very little play after that. Don't forget the webbing on the straps stretches a little too.