Trailer suspension repair/replacement: MFI. Has anyone done it?

[MOA_Chaser]

I have a pair of spring shackles that rusted through and I need to replace them. I am likely going to go all the way around the trailer and replace EVERYTHING that is rusted up with new parts.

I was unable to get the nuts free (and I'm replacing them anyways) so I cut them off with a cutting wheel. The bolt is frozen into the equalizer (as shown in the pic), embedded in white. Can I re-use these equalizers, or am I going to need to replace those as well? I've given the bolt several sold whacks, but I was wondering if I am wasting my time or if I should just use more BFH (big F'n hammer).

I'm also not sure about when to replace the springs themselves. They are extremely rusty, but I have an electrolysis tank set up for a car I'm restoring and could remove the rust pretty easily. What's the indicators that a spring needs replaced?

 

[Bruce]

Your pic did not show up. Do you have your boat off of the trailer? I would be much more comfortable without the boat on the trailer.

I replaced the 7,000 pound axles, springs, bolts and other hardware on an equipment trailer a few years ago. I found it quite difficult to get the last bolt in on each side. The trailer was on an automotive lift. We ended up chaining it to the lift to keep it from moving and using a winch attached to my truck to pull the spring into place.

 

[MOA_Chaser]

I forgot to attach the pic, it's there now. I don't have the option to take the boat off the trailer. I have it on several jack stands, with only one tire removed. I'm removing the spring with the broken shackle first as I decide what to do with the rest of them. I'll be doing them one at a time.

 

[Bruce]

Looks like time for a bigger hammer. You might drill a shallow hole in the end of the bolt to center your punch on.

Since you can't remove the boat how about placing wooden cribbing under the trailer in front and behind each wheel and under the tongue? I believe that will make it more stable. I bet the suspension is taking a lot of your hammers blow.

 

[MOA_Chaser]

Yeah, I may have to get more blocking and do at least one entire side at a time. If I can't get the bolt out of the equalizer and use it as it hangs, I'll have to remove the whole equalizer... and therefore drop both springs on that side at once. I got the spring with the broken shackles off. I think the spring itself is in OK shape except it would need rebuilt. I hate standing near it with the bottom rusted as bad as it is... if that fastener lets go, the spring is coming apart.

 

[Bruce]

How much are replacement springs? Is it worth rebuilding?

How much do you boat in salt water?

 

[MOA_Chaser]

It looks like the replacement springs are about $22- $40 each, depending on the measurements. The one I took off measured 25 3/4" center to center. The springs on the other side measure 26 1/2" and 27"... so they are apparently all in different stages of wear, but that's also under load. I could put another bolt through the springs and a base plate for not much money but if I can figure out exactly what I need it will probably be worth it to just replace all of them. I don't boat in salt water yet at all, but we are hoping to take a trip to the Gulf this summer, and will possibly be going at least once or twice a year thereafter. It's in my long term plans to relocate there, so I am trying to make my boat and trailer (it's galvanized) more salt-water friendly.

 

[itsdgm]

That's a lot of rust on those parts. How do the frame rails look? I would think that the frame would be rusted out if the springs are that rusted. But hopefully you can just replace the springs and be good to go!!!

 

[MOA_Chaser]

The frame is good. It's galvanized. The axles are starting to get some surface rust in places, but I find those spots, wire brush them and use Rustoleum Cold Galvanizing Primer to preserve it.

 

[aarons1k]

I have a pair of spring shackles that rusted through and I need to replace them. I am likely going to go all the way around the trailer and replace EVERYTHING that is rusted up with new parts.

I was unable to get the nuts free (and I'm replacing them anyways) so I cut them off with a cutting wheel. The bolt is frozen into the equalizer (as shown in the pic), embedded in white. Can I re-use these equalizers, or am I going to need to replace those as well? I've given the bolt several sold whacks, but I was wondering if I am wasting my time or if I should just use more BFH (big F'n hammer).

I'm also not sure about when to replace the springs themselves. They are extremely rusty, but I have an electrolysis tank set up for a car I'm restoring and could remove the rust pretty easily. What's the indicators that a spring needs replaced?

May need to heat the shackle up and use a bfh and a punch ... The leaf springs r cheap I personally wouldn't e even waste your time sand blasting and painting ....

 

[MOA_Chaser]

I thought about applying some heat to the bolt but I'm afraid it would ruin the nylon bushing. I'd have to make sure I knocked it out as soon as it started to soften a bit. It's only about $20 to replace both of the equalizers, the downside would be that I have to do the entire left side at one time, then the entire right side rather than doing right rear, then right front, etc.

 

[MOA_Chaser]

Ugh. I got a callback from MFI today.

According to them, the springs they use (and have in stock) are 26" and rated at 1750 lbs. They want $65 each for them, and "shipping isn't going to be cheap."

Apparently, after thoroughly searching the internet, 1 3/4" wide, 26" on center, 4 leaf, 1750 lb capacity trailer springs are made of Unobtanium. Except for their stock. Now, I KNOW they're not making these springs custom, in house, to make sure their trailers use springs that can't be found anywhere else. Now, 25 1/4" center-to-center springs with those specs are EVERYWHERE. And can be scored for $25 or so.

I guess I'll fire off another email and see if they go by total length or if the center-to-center measurement is actually 26" in which case I don't know what to do. Surely there is a way to calculate the exact measurement needed if I know the axle locations, the hanger distances and the equalizer dimensions.

 

[Bruce]

Dayton US-1060 would be an option. They have 250 pounds of extra capacity which would make the ride slightly rougher. Here is one source for $30 each http://www.pacifictrailers.com/26-Double-Eye-Trailer-Leaf-Spring-4-Leaf-AWS-4/

 

[kthrash]

I redid the entire suspension/bearings/brakes/lines/wires/tounge on my AR210 trailer a few years ago.. if you have any questions let me know.. Wasnt easy, wasnt hard.. air tools help as well as having 4 jackstands.. I did it with the boat on the trailer.

you can see the pile of rust under the boat on the other side.

 

[MOA_Chaser]

Ha, yeah there's tons of rust! I see that you used the same equalizers. I had to really drive out the shackle bolt from the equalizer when removing the spring, so that bushing wasn't compromised. I take it you didn't have any play in the equalizer's top bolt? I could replace it (they're only about $10 each) but don't see any sense in it if they're OK. Did you use splined retainer bolts on all suspension components? I think I have my order lists just about ready to go. Just need to find a place with better shipping for the stainless U-bolts.

Here is my list so far:

eTrailer:
4 springs: Part # PR4B, $83.80
16 galvanized shackle straps: Part # 18-11GALV, $29.60
16 galvanized shackle bolts: Part # TRFA73Z916DLNZ, $26.06
Free shipping.

Pacific Trailer:
8 stainless U bolts with plates: Part # UBK-SS2186, $79.90
Shipping: $21.67

 

[kthrash]

I ordered all the springs, shackels and bolts from Trailerpartsdepot.com cheaper than eTrailer.

1 81199 SPRING,25-1/4"DE 2500#(2-BOX) 4 LEAF 2 0 $79.34 $158.68

2 81180 TIE PLATE KIT 2.38" ROUND TRAILER AXLE 2 0 $21.98 $43.96

3 86250 SPRING BOLT KIT-9/16X 3"SPLINE [2-PKG] 7 0 $7.73 $54.11

4 44536 SHACKLE PLATE,3-3/4"OAL ZINC 8 0 $2.48 $19.84

 

[kthrash]

I ordered all the brake stuff from them as well.. trailerpartsdepot.com

1 34033 UFP DISC BRAKE KIT 10" ZINC/PTD (PAIR) 1 0 $266.85 $266.85

2 32264K UFP BREAKAWAY CABLE ASY MODEL A-60/70 1 0 $10.00 $10.00

3 34355 UFP BREAKAWAY CABLE CLIP MODEL A-75/60 1 0 $1.47 $1.47

4 81203 CHAIN SAFETY CL-3 W/S-HOOK (2-PKG) 1 0 $15.23 $15.23

I ordered this stuff from pacifictrailers.com

UFP A-60 Inner Member Slide, 7500lb. 1 Axle Disc Brakes #34043 UFP34043 $159.95 1 $159.95

UFP Top Lockout Upgrade, (Brake Lockout Cap) #34359 UFP34359 $9.95 1 $9.95

20' Single Axle Brake Line Kit 539-001 Brakes: Disc Brakes Includes (2) Flex Hoses $74.95 1 $74.95

24" Flexible Hydraulic Trailer Brake Hose #18024-MF BLU18024-MF $15.95 1 $15.95

 

[MOA_Chaser]

When comparing prices, please note that I bought stainless where I could, and galvanized for everything else. That boosted the price for some parts. Also, the $83 for springs were for ALL FOUR of them.

 

[ScarabMike]

This is the way Ill go when its time. Good luck!

 

[Bruce]

To the guys that have replaced the suspension, how hard was it to get the springs to line up? Did they align when they were suspended in the air or did you have to bend the spring to get them to align?