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Trim Tab Installation Issue

HangOutdoors

Jetboaters Admiral
Messages
7,302
Reaction score
8,426
Points
492
Location
Royal Oak, MI
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2020
Boat Model
AR
Boat Length
21
I have the first trim tab on and everything went smooth until I was test fitting the actuator. I have the short actuator. As you can see in the pictures below, when I spin it around push it up top I am all the way to the edge almost and the tabs are not fully retracted. The actuator is fully retracted. Does anyone else have pictures of them on your boat, specifically an AR210, SX210, 212s, etc. ?

Need to figure this out as I have 5200 on it drying and if I need to remove I want to do it as soon as possible..

It just doesn't seem right.

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I have the first trim tab on and everything went smooth until I was test fitting the actuator. I have the short actuator. As you can see in the pictures below, when I spin it around push it up top I am all the way to the edge almost and the tabs are not fully retracted. The actuator is fully retracted. Does anyone else have pictures of them on your boat, specifically an AR210, SX210, 212s, etc. ?

Need to figure this out as I have 5200 on it drying and if I need to remove I want to do it as soon as possible..

It just doesn't seem right.

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I think you are too far outboard. If the tab were a few inches closer to the keel, you’d have room for the actuator to mount.
 
I guess it looks ok, see straight edge below and top actautor placement, any advice would be appreciated.

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That will work, but functionally it will be in play at all times. I don’t think that’s a bad thing, as my boat rides much nicer even at top speed with a touch of tab, so I’d just press on as is.
 
I too think you're fine. The piston inside should turn a little inside the sleeve making the base mount flex less. Your level picture is perfect.
 
How close are you to the tie down? You want to aim your mounting screws/actuator base towards the backing plate for the tie down. It will be a stronger installation than just the FRP. Take a wider picture in relation to the tie down. From what I can see the angle of the tab is good in relation to the straight edge. You really do not need them up more.
 
8 inches

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Mine are 3-4" away, I know completely different hull. Don't worry about being out near the edge, mine are too. See if you can adjust them more outboard towards the tie downs.
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The arrow shows one of the mounting screws just missing being imbedded in the backing plate.

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@zipper Different hull, i have to transom mount.
 
I guess i could redrill the actual tab and move the actuator connection point an inch or two closer to the transom. Not sure if i would gain anything
 
I had to re-drill mine 1" aft so the actuator mount would clear the hull at the step. I know you don't have that issue.

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Well It looks like it is ok if I mount the actuater under the swim platform. As an option I could always remove one bolt where it mounts to the tab and rotate it 20 degrees or so and than just drill one hole in the tab and use the original hole. This will actually allow it to retract an inch or so more. So I think all is good either way. I have both tabs mounted to the boat and will do the actuator and wiring another day.

Black 5200 seems to get on everything. Including neighbors dog who came to pay a visit and sat on some on top of the paper towels I was using to clean around the mount.

@zipper, like your storage/barn a lot!
 
Well It looks like it is ok if I mount the actuater under the swim platform. As an option I could always remove one bolt where it mounts to the tab and rotate it 20 degrees or so and than just drill one hole in the tab and use the original hole. This will actually allow it to retract an inch or so more. So I think all is good either way. I have both tabs mounted to the boat and will do the actuator and wiring another day.

Black 5200 seems to get on everything. Including neighbors dog who came to pay a visit and sat on some on top of the paper towels I was using to clean around the mount.

@zipper, like your storage/barn a lot!
Sorry I didn't see this earlier, I spun the top actuator brackets backwords for more under the swim platform meat to screw into (2 screws aft 1 foraard) As far as the couple degrees from flat those actuator pistons will spin for you, it takes a little force but they are designed to spin to mount flat. I had to redrill the angle for the wiring to fit correctly through that bracket when I flipped it but the 5200 will fill any void.
 
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@Dumbassbass Thanks for the idea. I haven't mounted the actuators to the swim platform yet. I will take a look at your suggestion, sounds pretty good.
 
How is it going today? Have you made any headway?
 
@zipper raining off and on, so I am hoping in the next few days. Boat is outside in drive so hard to work on it under these conditions. :(
 
When I finally got up today after driving home for 15 straight hours yesterday, I finished the first tab actuator before the rain started and fished the cable part of the way through. Everything looks good. Will post pictures as soon as I get the other one installed in next day or so.

Also I seem to always get the Black 5200 on everything around me.
 
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Did you do anything to fill the existing square holes from the manufacturer? I just installed one of my tabs and completely skipped the step where you have to raise the tab 1/4 in up before installing the actuator so I’m thinking about drilling new holes like you did here so that I can raise my tab to specs without having to re-drill new holes for the actuator bracket.

I had to re-drill mine 1" aft so the actuator mount would clear the hull at the step. I know you don't have that issue.

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