Trolling motor breaker question.

[Sherwood]

I have 210 fsh with a 24 volt min Kota riptide.
Bought the boat last fall and put the riptide on after a couple trips. These last couple of trips. My breaker has tripped when I had the Trolling motor on 10. I assume it's the temperature difference that is causing the issue. I thought about putting a fan in console to increase airflow around the breaker and batteries, but I figured I should get some advice from some people who actually know what they are doing first.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I have 210 fsh with a 24 volt min Kota riptide.
Bought the boat last fall and put the riptide on after a couple trips. These last couple of trips. My breaker has tripped when I had the Trolling motor on 10. I assume it's the temperature difference that is causing the issue. I thought about putting a fan in console to increase airflow around the breaker and batteries, but I figured I should get some advice from some people who actually know what they are doing first.

As long as you put in the correct size breaker per the instructions, I’d say your breaker has gotten weak, just replace the breaker. A fan should not be required. What breaker did you install specifically ?

 

[HangOutdoors]

What size wiring did you use and what is the run (length) of it from battery to the plug?

 

[Bottom Bracket]

They don't like 10 for long periods of time. breaker may be functioning properly,
I have a 60 amp breaker on a 24v system.

 

[HangOutdoors]

They don't like 10 for long periods of time. breaker may be functioning properly,
I have a 60 amp breaker on a 24v system.

I run mine for a long time on 10 and don't have any issues.

 

[212s]

Breakers don't pop because the motor runs for "long periods of time"...that would be a motor issue. Breakers pop due to excessive current flow...first guess is the breaker is too low for the current draw - like a 30a breaker on a 40a max circuit will blow when you max out the motor.

 

[fatboyroy]

i run mine for a long time too with no issues, I have the minn kota breaker.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

So, if the OP was running his at 10 before with no issues, and now there is an issue, either there is excessive draw and that is exceeding the breaker trip setting, or as I said before the breaker has gotten weak- that happens over time. The only way to know for sure is to install a shunt like the Victron smart shunt where, as one of the many functions, you can see current flow in real time. Without a shunt it’s all a guessing game.

 

[fatboyroy]

Also if he is using wrong gauge wire (there is a chart in minn kota depending on length) that would warm up and trip the breaker. If gauge is too small, it wont trip on lower settings but if he hits 10 ....?

 

[Sherwood]

What size wiring did you use and what is the run (length) of it from battery to the plug?

8 Guage, I don't know the length, but the batterys are on standard battery shelf in the console. Plus another little run to get to a battery on off switch that I put in the glove box. Didn't want to monkey with unplugging a plug all the time since people report that's where shorts often develop. Have a plug I just don't use it.

 

[Sherwood]

As long as you put in the correct size breaker per the instructions, I’d say your breaker has gotten weak, just replace the breaker. A fan should not be required. What breaker did you install specifically ?

Red wolf 60 amp, and 8 gauge wire.
I used a lot over the "winter'. I live near Pensacola, Florida, so not exactly cold, but alot cooler than now.
So that lead me to believe it's just hot in the console shelf, as I have my breaker mounted to the outside of a battery box, and as far back as I could get it out of the way.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Red wolf 60 amp, and 8 gauge wire.
I used a lot over the "winter'. I live near Pensacola, Florida, so not exactly cold, but alot cooler than now.
So that lead me to believe it's just hot in the console shelf, as I have my breaker mounted to the outside of a battery box, and as far back as I could get it out of the way.

Okay as long as everything is tight I’d say your breaker is just weak. Try replacing it with a blue sea 60A breaker.

 

[zipper]

Red wolf 60 amp, and 8 gauge wire.
I used a lot over the "winter'. I live near Pensacola, Florida, so not exactly cold, but alot cooler than now.
So that lead me to believe it's just hot in the console shelf, as I have my breaker mounted to the outside of a battery box, and as far back as I could get it out of the way.

Never use 8 ga. wire in a 60 amp circuit. https://www.bluesea.com/resources/1437



The hot temperature is generated by putting 50+ amps thru an 8 awg wire. Breakers are supposed to trip at 80% max current. Meaning a 60 amp breaker will trip at 48 amps. So a 60 amp breaker is undersized for a 56 amp max load. 56 amps needs a 70a breaker and 6 awg wiring.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

This is the installation instructions from MinnKota, according to MinnKota he used the correct conductor and breaker. The wire run is less than 10’.

 

[zipper]

This is the installation instructions from MinnKota, according to MinnKota he used the correct conductor and breaker. The wire run is less than 10’.

View attachment 202230

Wow, that is just wrong! And dangerous.

https://boathowto.com/wiresize/abyc/

IDK, maybe designed that way to shut down the motor before it burns up during long periods of max current. Not being rated for "continuous use". But if that is the case, atleast put the right size wire in and use a 60a to trip it at 48amps, before it hits max of 56a. But that is speculation on my part.

 

[HangOutdoors]

I agree with Zipper. I used 6 AWG with mine. MinnKota is FoS and I personally wouldn't follow their recommendation. The cost is negligible to drop to 6 AWG in that scenario.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Mine was installed at the dealer I bought the boat from…I’ll have to double check on the wire size the installer used but I’m pretty sure it’s #8.

MinnKota would not put out information that would make them liable for causing fires.



Thanks for the ABYC link… I plugged in the digits for the OP’s system, changed the temp rating of the wire from 60° C to the 105°C specified in the MinnKota install instructions, also put in the 5% drop per the instructions, and used the 56 A max amp draw which the instructions say only occurs intermittently and during select conditions and is above the continuous load, and the ABYC calculator put this out.



So the MinnKota install instructions are already upping the wire size above what the ABYC calculator shows.

 

[zipper]

No way I would install 8 awg to feed a 60a circuit, let alone 10 awg. The root of the OP's heat and tripping problem. I don't mind oversizing the wire some. I understand the wire temp ratings, allows more current/heat per wire diameter before the insulation fails. I use the temp difference to over design, I don't like to design at limits, using lower temp values for design but buying higher temp wiring, no reason for me to cut it as close as minnkota does...but I don't like my wiring to reach 200°F at any time, by drawing current thru an undersized wire.

Sidebar...First real job after college, way back, was at a co. named Champlain Cable. I was in R&D testing insulation compounds for use on the production line.

 

[Sherwood]

Wow, that is just wrong! And dangerous.

https://boathowto.com/wiresize/abyc/

View attachment 202232

IDK, maybe designed that way to shut down the motor before it burns up during long periods of max current. Not being rated for "continuous use". But if that is the case, atleast put the right size wire in and use a 60a to trip it at 48amps, before it hits max of 56a. But that is speculation on my part.

I used what the sales guy at my local marine supply place told me to use.
In hindsight I should of done more research.
What would you use?

 

[HangOutdoors]

6 AWG and a 60 amp minn kota breaker. And call it good.