Turtlegrass and why no temp gauge?

[FSHER]

Hello,
I've got a 2021 Yamaha FSH 210 that predominantly sees salt water in mid to southern west coast of Florida. I've had the boat for over a year now and completely love it, but the newness is over and id like to start getting things better sorted out.

1. Most of the time but more so in the summer, the water is congested with Turtlegrass. If unfamiliar, its a long strand of grass maybe 8-12 inches long and 1/2 in or less wide. The grass nearly clogs the entire intake and will wrap itself around the impeller shaft pretty good too. On a long day out, island hopping i will clean the weeds from both areas maybe 5 times. its totally fine while at speed but the no wake zones/channels are killing me, bad, in my areas there are to many boats around or the channel is to narrow to do the reverse dump trick thing so I'm usually left to drop an anchor and get yelled at by every boat passing by or go a little faster and cause a wake, still get yelled at and get pulled over. happened last week and the A hole sheriff improperly tied his boat to mine and scratched it all up. I've done a little research and didn't really see anything worth while so I'm asking here if anyone has any suggestions. I'm looking for mods or techniques and not "don't drive in those areas" kind of advise.
A. I did read about a guy who filed and sharpened the leading edges of his intake grates and I guess that helped but I'm not sure that's a great idea or not.
B. do they make differently shaped intake grates specifically for weeds?
C. do I just deal with it?

2. No Temp Gauge. This one drives me nuts that they wouldn't drop in a couple gauges. I've had the overheat alarms go off several times because of the above and things turn into a real shit show real fast. At what temp do the alarms kick on and how much danger are the engines in at that point? I've always shut down and ran to the clean out ports as fast as possible but if the alarm fails or I cant hear it, if I wasn't constantly looking at the pissers, I would be blowing motors up every other weekend.
A. has anyone ever installed temp gauges? if so how and where?
B. is there a reason that Yamaha didn't install them? what am I missing?

If you made it this far, I appreciate it.

Thanks in advance

-Mark

 

[David Martin]

I’m with you temp gauge should be standard. Both temp are in an external. Mount upper left of dash. Digital you can switch to many different color read outs

 

[jeffrt]

The temperature gauge is a great idea. Was there a spot on the engine to add a sensor easily?

Edit: Took a look at some parts diagrams, and it looks like there are a few sensors on there now, so I guess I'm curious if there's another port, or would you have to remove a factory sensor?

 

[David Martin]

Two places to add sensors both are splices in the water lines. You will need to purchase hose adapters separate. You can splice to the hoses off the thermostat housing or the pisser lines. I used the pisser lines but these lines I haft to add 70 degrees to any temp shown. My pisser lines run around 90 degrees add 70 to get the 160 that the thermostat line is running. Splice into the thermostat lines and no math needed.

 

[FSHER]

Appreciate the replies.

Yeah I have no idea why a temp gauge is not standard. I sealed up a few leaks from rod and cup holders this weekend and I am super disappointed in the assembly quality of this boat so I'm not surprised. Basically every rod holder and cup holder leaks at every joint and connection, nothing had gaskets or sealant, cupholder drained right onto live well electronics, 2 rod holders drain into the battery compartment, deck drain leaked everywhere into the engine bay and is actually to long and higher than the deck so if it didn't leak it wouldn't drain properly. Just a lot of lazy stuff that they could fix. Don't worry Yamaha ill take care of it for ya.

I'm not sure where an ideal location for a temp sensor would be. A couple times I overheated and looked at the pisser and nothing was coming out. It was so clogged with weeds that the coolant intake was blocking water flow. So in that case would it read the ambient temp? Or maybe I would notice an issue because there would be a difference between the 2 engines? seems that the pissers would be the easiest route and would likely assist with 90% of the overheat issues. maybe even install some type of flow gauge as well?

I'm not sure if I'm brave enough or smart enough to tackle it on my own but i may have to figure it out. We just have a paver company to the house to quote a job and I was taking to the guy about boats and not pavers, turns out he has an AR210, takes it out to the same areas and he recently blew a motor due to overheat from weeds. He said the alarm came on, he saw smoke and before he had time to think or react it was to late. But there may have been something else going on because it was covered by warranty.

-Mark

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I don’t know if this is a viable alternative for you… how about installing an electric trolling motor so that when you get into these slow areas you could use the trolling motor until you can get into an area of higher speed and don’t have to worry so much about the grass. I do this whenever I head into an area with lots of visible debris in the water.

The temp warnings come on in ample time for you to shutdown the affected engine(s). Perhaps you could move the alarm if possible so that you hear it better? There are multiple heat sensors that can trigger the alarm, on the engine and the exhaust. The problem with putting a temp sensor in any of the cooling water passages is that the over heats are caused by lack of water, so the gauge may not react properly since there is no water.

 

[FSHER]

I don’t know if this is a viable alternative for you… how about installing an electric trolling motor so that when you get into these slow areas you could use the trolling motor until you can get into an area of higher speed and don’t have to worry so much about the grass. I do this whenever I head into an area with lots of visible debris in the water.

The temp warnings come on in ample time for you to shutdown the affected engine(s). Perhaps you could move the alarm if possible so that you hear it better? There are multiple heat sensors that can trigger the alarm, on the engine and the exhaust. The problem with putting a temp sensor in any of the cooling water passages is that the over heats are caused by lack of water, so the gauge may not react properly since there is no water.

I do have a decent Trolling motor but I cannot stand it lol. It has a remote that you have to scan several menus to deploy it, or do anything. I have to re learn the menus every time I use it. Its big and heavy and I have to take it on and off because I store the boat with a cover. Every time I do this I smash a knuckle or scratch the boat and its only a matter of time before I drop it on my head. But that's not a bad idea at all especially if it saves a motor.

It doesn't seem like there is a 100% solution given the overheat can be from multiple issues/areas. I'm guessing now that may be why they don't do anything from the factory? Maybe an LED or something more in your face along with the alarm might be something to think about too.

Maybe if possible have a flow sensor on the pissers as well as a water temp sensor? I think this would cover multiple situations.

knowing what the temps and flow should be at any given RPM would help trouble shoot, as well as a Eng 1 v Eng 2 comparison.

For example I know that around 6000 RPM I should under ideal conditions be at around 25MPH and last week I was at 20, so I stopped and checked the clean outs and sure enough the intake grates had a fistful of weeds wrapped around them, but this isn't always the case either, of course.

where does the engine pull the coolant water from in the first place? I thought it would be somewhere in the jet unit but im not seeing anything that sticks out to me.

-Mark

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I do have a decent Trolling motor but I cannot stand it lol. It has a remote that you have to scan several menus to deploy it, or do anything. I have to re learn the menus every time I use it. Its big and heavy and I have to take it on and off because I store the boat with a cover. Every time I do this I smash a knuckle or scratch the boat and its only a matter of time before I drop it on my head. But that's not a bad idea at all especially if it saves a motor.

It doesn't seem like there is a 100% solution given the overheat can be from multiple issues/areas. I'm guessing now that may be why they don't do anything from the factory? Maybe an LED or something more in your face along with the alarm might be something to think about too.

Maybe if possible have a flow sensor on the pissers as well as a water temp sensor? I think this would cover multiple situations.

knowing what the temps and flow should be at any given RPM would help trouble shoot, as well as a Eng 1 v Eng 2 comparison.

For example I know that around 6000 RPM I should under ideal conditions be at around 25MPH and last week I was at 20, so I stopped and checked the clean outs and sure enough the intake grates had a fistful of weeds wrapped around them, but this isn't always the case either, of course.

where does the engine pull the coolant water from in the first place? I thought it would be somewhere in the jet unit but im not seeing anything that sticks out to me.

-Mark

What trolling motor do you have?

The cooling water comes off the jet pump just before the articulating nozzle, it’s a square housing. Might not be a bad idea to check the filter in there.

 

[FSHER]

What trolling motor do you have?

The cooling water comes off the jet pump just before the articulating nozzle, it’s a square housing. Might not be a bad idea to check the filter in there.

I'm an idiot, I just ordered a couple o rings for that filter housing as a just in case, was planning to inspect them this weekend. Not sure what I was thinking.

I have a Minn Kota Ultera, with the i pilot remote. 112lb with a 36v 110AH Dakota lithium battery. its a great for the right person and I should've or still should pick up a foot pedal. I got it for fishing but its impossible to fish on the fly using the remote. Yes I could set up all kinds of maps and contour paths and spot lock and blah blah blah, but I think my eyes and wallet where bigger at the time of purchase because now I just want a foot control with nothing else, lol. The mount on the bow is also a "point" of contention, pun intended. that thing has put some pretty good dents in my head.

I've trolled with it for hours without issues and I've installed the charger on board as well so I just need to plug it in from time to time. so pushing it through the channels shouldn't be an issue at all. I'm the only issue in this equation.

its all possibly for sale as a kit.

-Mark

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I'm an idiot, I just ordered a couple o rings for that filter housing as a just in case, was planning to inspect them this weekend. Not sure what I was thinking.

I have a Minn Kota Ultera, with the i pilot remote. 112lb with a 36v 110AH Dakota lithium battery. its a great for the right person and I should've or still should pick up a foot pedal. I got it for fishing but its impossible to fish on the fly using the remote. Yes I could set up all kinds of maps and contour paths and spot lock and blah blah blah, but I think my eyes and wallet where bigger at the time of purchase because now I just want a foot control with nothing else, lol. The mount on the bow is also a "point" of contention, pun intended. that thing has put some pretty good dents in my head.

I've trolled with it for hours without issues and I've installed the charger on board as well so I just need to plug it in from time to time. so pushing it through the channels shouldn't be an issue at all. I'm the only issue in this equation.

its all possibly for sale as a kit.

-Mark

Sent you a PM lets chat about the Ulterra, I have the Rip Tide version with the Ipilot remote, it took me a couple of years to figure out how to use that thing. I think I can help you get the most out of it, perhaps with a little help you will find that Ulterra as valuable as I do.

 

[David Martin]

The Digital temp gauges work perfect when the water intake is blocked by weeds/plastic or anything else........ the props push water up into the engines under a fair amount pressure. If the water intake is blocked no water getting in .........no water is getting out.....NO PRESSURE. The water is being held in the engine/pisser/ect. The gauges work as normal showing you temp rises at water temp go's up.

Now being a digital gauge during cavitation of props the water flow is disrupted/aerated the air inducted into engines makes the digital readings fluctuate and blink................of course your seat of the paints feel all ready tells you...... your cavitating ...the gauge just verifies what you all ready know.

Pressure from the spinning props sometime push a leaf or plastic debrie sealing off the intake screen the pressure holds the leaf in place you can watch the temp rise on the motor ........at that point I shut off the affected engine and the water flowing through the jet will allow the leaf to be removed as no spinning prop no pressure to hold debrie against screen.....It just floats off. Restart and 99.9% of time the engine returns to normal temp long before the alarm horn go's off. If not its clean out port time.........clear the screen by hand.

 

[FSHER]

The Digital temp gauges work perfect when the water intake is blocked by weeds/plastic or anything else........ the props push water up into the engines under a fair amount pressure. If the water intake is blocked no water getting in .........no water is getting out.....NO PRESSURE. The water is being held in the engine/pisser/ect. The gauges work as normal showing you temp rises at water temp go's up.

Now being a digital gauge during cavitation of props the water flow is disrupted/aerated the air inducted into engines makes the digital readings fluctuate and blink................of course your seat of the paints feel all ready tells you...... your cavitating ...the gauge just verifies what you all ready know.

Pressure from the spinning props sometime push a leaf or plastic debrie sealing off the intake screen the pressure holds the leaf in place you can watch the temp rise on the motor ........at that point I shut off the affected engine and the water flowing through the jet will allow the leaf to be removed as no spinning prop no pressure to hold debrie against screen.....It just floats off. Restart and 99.9% of time the engine returns to normal temp long before the alarm horn go's off. If not its clean out port time.........clear the screen by hand.

This is good stuff.

I was also thinking of a simple flow gauge on the pissers. I would establish what the flow should be at any given RPM under ideal conditions. if one engines flow is less than the other than I know I have a problem starting to rise. and for the most part if the proper amount of water is flowing than most if not all issues are corrected. My concern with a temp sensor on the pisser would be the read out with no water flowing but to your point, no water in means no water out so in theory the temp would rise. Technically none of the numbers, neither flow or temp would matter as long as you had an idea of what the number should be under ideal conditions and RPMs. id be more than happy to create a waterproof label of the correct flows and temps and attach it to the console.

lots of options to think about.