VEVE Guide Install

[drjames1107]

So I got my 65"veve guides and pads today and the CE smith lights for the top. the lights come with 8ft of wire and these clips to crimp into the existing trailer wiring (it says the Brown wire). Anyways it seems to me if I use these that the connection will be under water at times. This doesn't seem like the right thing to do.

How did you connect yours? Please help.

 

[Cory]

Sorry, I didn't spring for the lights. Can you replace the wire and make the connections closer to the tongue?

 

[drjames1107]

I suppose I could do that. I just wondered why they send the lights with 8ft of wire? I mean how can you actually make that work? Maybe I could cut the lights real high up the guide and crimp in a new 25 ft wire and connect up by the tongue. Unless someone else has a better idea??

 

[maboat]

I hate to break it to ya, but your trailer probably has connections like that already from the factory. I'm not saying that makes it "right", but VeVe isn't doing anything different from the OEM trailer wiring. Contrary to common belief, typical lake water is not very conductive at 12 volts. Those connectors may not be waterproof, but the lights will work even with those connectors under water. The problem will be corrosion over time.

If you have the know-how to do it with solder and heatshrink that would be much better.

 

[drjames1107]

@maboat, ok so the lake water won't short anything out??? Thats all I'm worried about. I figured the wire would corrode overtime anyhow. I thought of the solder and heat shrink but figured that was probably not water tight either.

oh yea if it makes a difference I have the galvanized shorelander.

 

[jcyamaharider]

Just installe mine and used the supplied hardware to the brown wire. I wouldnt worry about it too much. I grew up boating and all off the earlier trailers had poor wiring on them. Never had one issue with trailer wiring.

 

[maboat]

@maboat, ok so the lake water won't short anything out??? Thats all I'm worried about. I figured the wire would corrode overtime anyhow. I thought of the solder and heat shrink but figured that was probably not water tight either.

Here's a safety tip: Power windows still work even if the car is underwater. And its not because all the components are waterproof - they aren't!

Likewise, flashlights work underwater even if they aren't waterproof. They will corrode quickly, but the light works until corrosion takes over.

Likewise, trailer lights work underwater and its not because all the components are waterproof - they aren't!

I'm not saying you should ignore insulation. I'm just saying those connections very common. It may not be a bad idea to squeeze some silicone in there after you crimped it, but its not required.

Now, after saying all this, I realize I should clarify for safety...
What I said only applies to 12 volts or less. High voltage - like home appliances - WILL short out and conduct under water. Its a matter of voltage and resistance. Water has much more resistance than copper. 12 volts is not enough electrical pressure to overcome the resistance of (most) water, but 110 volts is

 

[drjames1107]

Got it guys! Thanks so much. I just got done with my stereo install so I guess I was overthinking the whole wire thing as everything was so critical on that install.

 

[jetboater4life]

Here are some pictures of my install
http://yamahajetboaters.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=52504&hilit=Veve&start=15#p481043

The snap connector comes with an electrical paste to seal up the connection. It won't last forever but should hold for a long time.

 

[drjames1107]

Thanks @jetboater4life !

 

[Jump Right In]

Hey Derick @jetboater4life, are you happy you decided on the veve's? I don't make a habit of boating at night, but I do launch at a tricky launch in a narrow river that you have to do a sharp 90 degree turn to get on the trailer. I have had the current push me past the trailer once and the keel slipped in between the wheel well and the side bunk. Dumb question, but do the VeVe's help center the boat while loading in daylight? Logically I presume they do, but also have more than once been reminded of the word "assume". Did you put 65" units on yours?

 

[woodard1983]

@maboat, ok so the lake water won't short anything out??? Thats all I'm worried about. I figured the wire would corrode overtime anyhow. I thought of the solder and heat shrink but figured that was probably not water tight either.

oh yea if it makes a difference I have the galvanized shorelander.

I was concerned about this as well, but I did a lot of research on the other site and never found anyone having problems, so I went ahead and followed the instructions.....installed them last spring and didn't have an issue all summer...

 

[jetboater4life]

Hey Derick @jetboater4life, are you happy you decided on the veve's? I don't make a habit of boating at night, but I do launch at a tricky launch in a narrow river that you have to do a sharp 90 degree turn to get on the trailer. I have had the current push me past the trailer once and the keel slipped in between the wheel well and the side bunk. Dumb question, but do the VeVe's help center the boat while loading in daylight? Logically I presume they do, but also have more than once been reminded of the word "assume". Did you put 65" units on yours?

Yes I am very happy. They are rock solid. I launch and retrieve mainly in a river with fast current and if I'm off just a bit the front edge of the boat will hit the guide pad and keep me stable for a second or two while I goose the throttle to pivot and get back in position. Before I had them, if I didn't have it lined up just perfect I would float over the wheel well and have to rev the throttle in reverse to start over. This usually got me a few strange looks from dock watchers I'm confident I could teach my wife to do it or my kids in a few years, whereas without them, there would be no way. As you probably noticed I spray painted everything black to match my trailer. I also coated the VeVe guide pads with 3M 303 protectant. The VeVe guides I have are 65". I had to drill two holes in my the fender behind my wheel to get them on and at some point I'll have to drill another hole to move them 4 to 6 inches back so they don't block my gas cap

 

[drjames1107]

@jetboater4life, I did not get instructions with mine rather a parts list with a diagram. I did not notice that a hole needed to be drilled did I miss something? I just thought the hardware and bolts acted like a clap of sorts.

 

[jetboater4life]

On your trailer you shouldn't need to drill any holes because you should have room behind the wheel to mount it like a clap. If you look at mine you will see that the area where it needs to be installed is connected to a step/platform, so I had no choice to drill into it. I think this is true for all 06-10 MFI trailers for 210 or 212 boats.

Edit: and to answer your question about the instructions, you are right, I just got a parts diagram with the VeVes. The instructions I was referring to were from the CE smith lights.

 

[Jump Right In]

Has anyone used any other lights with the VeVe's other than the CE Smith lights? Also, can you only purchase the VeVe's thru the mfg website? It certainly is not the easiest website to navigate for a company that supposedly builds a very solid product.

 

[drjames1107]

I saw some guides at Academy but not sure if they were VEVE. I did see the CE smith lights at Academy.

 

[Jump Right In]

Has anyone who owns the VeVe's ever compared them to the Cabella's guide on posts?

 

[jetboater4life]

I bought my guides and pads through their website. I'm not aware of any other places to order them.

 

[maboat]

Has anyone who owns the VeVe's ever compared them to the Cabella's guide on posts?

Is there a specific Cabella's model you're talking about? Over the years, I've had many different styles from places like Cabellas, Bass Pro, Overton's, West Marine, etc. Most are pretty much the same and DONT have these features that the VeVe guides have (copied from their website)...

NOW, NOTE WHAT WE DO AND THE OTHERS DONT !!
1) Near full length 1-1/2” sq. steel posts, there is ONLY 7" Difference between the top of steel tube to top of PVC tube. ( NOT just 1/2 way into PVC Tube. )
2) Welded in brace on formed joint for added strength. ( NOT just formed and able to easily bend when hit by boat. )
3) 1-1/2" SQ. Tubes are 14 Ga. thick material. ( NOT lighter 16 Ga. like others. )
4) The heavy wall 2” SCH. 40 PVC tubes sit on a base ring. ( NOT jam into the joint. )
5) 5" long, formed clamp mount design. ( NOT just 2 U-Bolts. )