• Welcome to Jetboaters.net!

    We are delighted you have found your way to the best Jet Boaters Forum on the internet! Please consider Signing Up so that you can enjoy all the features and offers on the forum. We have members with boats from all the major manufacturers including Yamaha, Seadoo, Scarab and Chaparral. We don't email you SPAM, and the site is totally non-commercial. So what's to lose? IT IS FREE!

    Membership allows you to ask questions (no matter how mundane), meet up with other jet boaters, see full images (not just thumbnails), browse the member map and qualifies you for members only discounts offered by vendors who run specials for our members only! (It also gets rid of this banner!)

    free hit counter

? What type of seal for engine compartment noise reduction?

ReggieCFL

Well-Known Member
Messages
18
Reaction score
1
Points
60
Location
Central Florida
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2017
Boat Model
AR195
Boat Length
19
I’m finally ready to tackle noise reduction and thought I saw a post with a specific weather trip recommended for the engine compartment that would not interfere with it closing properly, but I can’t find it now. Does anyone have a recommendation on the best weather strip product to seal the engine hatch to reduce noise? Thanks in advance!
 
I’m finally ready to tackle noise reduction and thought I saw a post with a specific weather trip recommended for the engine compartment that would not interfere with it closing properly, but I can’t find it now. Does anyone have a recommendation on the best weather strip product to seal the engine hatch to reduce noise? Thanks in advance!
search YT for Jeff's Jetboat he has video on pipe insulation.
 
@swatski posted about good results with a garage door gasket.

I’ve had the same one sitting in my garage for a year and haven’t put it on so can’t comment on how well it works.
Man. I hear you. I started and only did like 3 feet. Got busy and never finished it
 

Has anyone tried the above method of pipe insulation on the 19’ boats and had good success?
 
I started with pipe insulation and it worked well for the first season but compressed and didn’t decompress during the first off season. I ended up replacing it with “D” shaped 5/5” x 3/8” (20seal from McMaster Carr. I don’t recall the thickness but glad I went with the 3m adhesive backed variant.


574DE7BE-DAA2-41C0-8439-56E3873608F8.png

D7719501-87B7-423B-BF25-06E71A988288.png
 
Last edited:

Has anyone tried the above method of pipe insulation on the 19’ boats and had good success?
I will probably pick up the insulation this weekend. Don't know if I'll have time to install it.
 
I started with pipe insulation and it worked well for the first season but compressed and didn’t decompress during the first off season. I ended up replacing it with “D” shaped 5/5” x 3/8” (20seal from McMaster Carr. I don’t recall the thickness but glad I went with the 3m adhesive backed variant.


View attachment 177232

View attachment 177237
Can you find the invoice for what you bought? Going to put this on my list of to dos, and want to get the best width and weight. I can see this stuff working FAR better than pipe insulation - that approach seems like using the wrong material just because it was laying around. The foam needs to be strong and bounce back, pipe insulation crushes to easily.
 
I used the garage door seal and the 3M 90 adhesive releases from it they are not compatible
 
I used the garage door seal and the 3M 90 adhesive releases from it they are not compatible
Did you find anything else that worked?

I bought weatherstrip adhesive that I haven’t tried yet. Hopefully that will stick to it.
 
when i used the 3m 90 I sprayed both surfaces separate let them tack up then placed sections in. Every part that releases 100% of the 3m is stuck on the gel coat nothing on the door seal. Maybe it has some type of release agent so the gasket doesnt stick to the garage floor. Its on but not good and needs repeated applications
 
Can you find the invoice for what you bought? Going to put this on my list of to dos, and want to get the best width and weight. I can see this stuff working FAR better than pipe insulation - that approach seems like using the wrong material just because it was laying around. The foam needs to be strong and bounce back, pipe insulation crushes to easily.
No way on the invoice but according to my original post on the subject I got 5/8” x 5/8” material and 3m (good stuff) backing. The thickeness you go with will depend on the distance to the bottom of the engine hatch, mine has a lot of aftermarket insulation on it so i must have gone thinner. Using pipe insulation as a guide is not a bad idea. Buy different sizes and see which will be tight but still allow you to close the compartment. For as little as it cost me it had lasted a long time, over 5 years and counting.
 
I started with pipe insulation and it worked well for the first season but compressed and didn’t decompress during the first off season. I ended up replacing it with “D” shaped 5/5” x 3/8” (20seal from McMaster Carr. I don’t recall the thickness but glad I went with the 3m adhesive backed variant.


View attachment 177232

View attachment 177237
Awesome, that looks like the way to go
 
Back
Top