What's the difference between a marine and a car stereo?

[soundshark]

Other than they tend to be white, (and may have splash proof buttons), is there any technical difference between a marine and a car stereo?
Since radios on Yamaha boats are protected behind a door, I'm thinking I could just stick in a car radio -- the choices and features are much greater.

 

[Bruce]

In theory a marine stereo should be sealed and use materials that are capable of standing up to a marine environment. I believe that my current Fusion does. The JVC that came in my SX230 had non functional RCA inputs. When I removed it there was a trail of rust running out of the casing. I believe that is was not built to marine standards.

A marine stereo should last longer than a car stereo. Car stereos are fine if you are willing to replace them more often,

 

[RightStuff]

Another thing that marine versions have is the electronics are usually (read: not always) dipped/coated in a plastic coating to prevent exposure to the elements.

You are right you could put a car stereo in a boat and would generally be fine if you know that you would be careful to not get it wet (or touch it with wet hands/fingers).

 

[David Analog]

It can vary by brand and model.
Many marine stereos have an exact car stereo counterpart with the primary difference being a conformal coating on the circuit board(s) of the marine-rated offering . It's not potted and all devices/components above the board are essentially unprotected.
It does offer some protection against corrosion.
The next level would be more of a sealed chassis on a dedicated marine HU, buttons covered by membranes, a larger protected face panel, and use of non-corrosive materials. Fusion gives you the highest level of HU protection that I have seen.
If you boat in a coastal or highly brackish area then you must use marinized electronics.
In a fresh water area many use standard car stereos or the first level of marine protection. And, results will vary based on a number of factors.
If any electronic component, marine or not, gets directly exposed to water while operational and passing current, it is likely toast. It takes very little water and current to do considerable damage, in fact, less current than it would take to trip a breaker or fuse.
The flip-up/down covers are helpful. But they often leak behind the rear flange and gasket. Making your own silicon gasket will help.

 

[BoaterGuy]

Also, it doesnt have to "get wet" from spray or a hose, the condensation at night can also ruin them pretty easily. Especially in salty environments.

 

[Bruce]

I believe that my factory head unit rusted from the inside out due to exposure to salty humid air. It had a flip cover protecting the front and there was no sign of water exposure to anything else near it.

 

[biffdotorg]

The statement above about Salt would be very valid, and something us from the midwest would never encounter.

Other than that, you save so much by avoiding the "marine" head units that you could replace it every other year and still be ahead. Let alone get the latest technology.

I have had "non-marine" stereos in my last two boats with no issues whatsoever. Keep in mind that both were behind enclosed doors, or glove boxes. The amps are marine rated though, as mine are designed to run with very little air movement due to where they are mounted. So spend your money wisely and listen to your stereo experts.

Our Alpine is doing great and have no reason to replace it. Saved a ton, and have much better features. The best part is that it was compatible with the waterproof, marine remote fob. Best of both worlds.

Good luck!