Where did that come from...

[bronze_10]

So as I am walking up to my boat today something caught my eye... so I crawled under the boat and this is what I see....
we have only beached the boat 3 times and I hated it when I did it so we stopped doing it. I am thinking a keel guard would cover it and would be am easy fix but what does the forum say?

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

The front one is worn like from sand etc but the others were from the boat sitting on something like a rock, sea shell etc those were impacted into the hull

 

[Bruce]

At minimum I would repair with epoxy before installing the keel guard.

 

[bronze_10]

Crap... i don't even know where to start with that... it must have been there when we bought it in april or most of it anyway... cause I hate when anything touches the bottom of the boat.

 

[Bruce]

A keel guard is a great idea and will cover most or all of it depending on how long of keel guard you order.

The simplest solution would be to get a tube of marinetex or other marine putty epoxy then clean the damaged area and work the epoxy into the pits and smooth it. Once it is dry you can sand the epoxy smooth if needed. Then simply install the keel guard over the top. No one will see it and you will know that it is sealed.

@Glassman can tell you how to do it right if you do not want to install a keel guard.

 

[robert843]

I agree with @Cobra Jet Steering LLC that appears to be a little more then just normal beaching. I have beached my Hurricane Deck boat probably 100 times and it doesn't look anything like that.

 

[Andy S]

I have used 3m Marine Premium Filler to fix issues like yours, http://www.westmarine.com/buy/3m--marine-premium-filler--P004_120_005_002 . I would definitely put a keel guard on after a repair.

 

[Bruce]

This is a good thread for gelcoat repair
https://jetboaters.net/threads/gel-coat-repair-with-spectrum-color-match.1641/#post-24430

 

[GiddYupJoe]

Look at your axel on your trailer. My keel looked identical to this and I noticed the paint was worn away on the axel right in the center. I guess I wasn't backing the trailer in deep enough and the two were rubbing when j loaded and unloaded.

The epoxy fix was extremely easy. Now I put one of those rubber bumpers on the axel to help with this issue in the future.

 

[bronze_10]

As soon as I read this post I remembered seeing white scuff mark on the center of the rear axle and had no idea where it came from.. that would explain the chunks taken out... @GiddYupJoe I do believe u r the winner... u get 10000 points.. now I just gotta fix it..

 

[tdonoughue]

Also, check your bunk boards. If rotted in the right spots, it can let your boat sag.

 

[Gym]

As @Bruce mentioned the quick patch and keel guard are the best route to go as you will get future damage without a keel guard. You may also want to mount a pad on your rear axel to reduce any future damage.

 

[bronze_10]

Yeah I need to get a pad... are there ones made for this or is it something people inprovise?.. I am just caulking this up to rookie first boat owner damage.... we made it through the first year without any major damage or break downs so if this is all I have to deal with I'll take it! ........................................ I still don't like it!

 

[Murf'n'surf]

There are a few sizes.....

http://www.easternmarine.com/3-x-12-stoltz-bump-pad-pad-3112

 

[Matt Phillips]

You could also likely fashion something out of a "dock fender" http://www.overtons.com/search/dock fender

Also check out Overton's trailer suplies as there may be options there too...

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

I don't know the exact diameter of your trailer axels but I have found a way to cover parts of trailers that make contact with jet ski hulls. I use a soft black p v c pipe or the grey p v c electrical conduit. Choose one with an inside diameter that will fit over the axel, then cut a piece the length you need, after you have this cut to length use a skill saw and set the blade to just cut through one side and cut it length wise so it has a single slit in it. Then use a heat gun or other heat source and heat the pipe opposite the slit, once the pipe is heated sufficiently open it and place it over the axel section then close it quickly. You obviously need gloves and if necessary you can reheat the one side to get it closed tight. Usually you do not need to do anything else , it will protect the hull from damage.

 

[bronze_10]

Boat all fixed.. just like new... for those in my area auto marine services on hwy 70 in garner is the place to go for fiberglass repair. They had 100 boats there having damage fixed and they make then look like new. They did mine for a little over $400... (for this is u who know how to do fiberglass work and think it is high just let me live in happiness please!)

 

[tdonoughue]

ONLY $400!?!? OMG! What a steal you got! I thought it would cost 3 times that!

(I really have no idea, but I thought that would make you feel better.)

 

[bronze_10]

Well... the insurance adjuster estimated $1200.00.

 

[Addicted]

$400 is a figure you can swallow as a lesson learned. I think you did just fine. Congrats on being whole again!