will my AR-230 fit on this trailer????

[Weebs74]

My current trailer is falling apart. I'm looking for a replacement in Hawaii and found one that came up in my area for a deal. I have no idea if the boat will fit and how the heck to make sure of it short of buying the trailer and giving it a go.

Any advice?? the center bunks are 2x6x 12 feet. the trailer as it's set up is 18.6 feet from the bow roller to the back of the bunk, which ends at the frame crossmember.

Please help...need to move fast on this if it will work. could save me big.

 

[Scottintexas]

sorry I can't give you an answer, being a tandem I would think it could be adjusted how ever you needed it,

maybe bumping this back to the top of the new posts will give someone else a view,

 

[Ronnie]

Take measurements of your stock trailer, particularly where and how far apart it’s bunks are and how high their tops are compared to the trailer frame rail they are mounted to. If you can adjust the new trailers bunks to match or get close you should be good to go, assuming the boat will also fit on the trailer length wise.

@Betik has a lot of recent trailer experience maybe he will chime in.

 

[biffdotorg]

The measurement you would want off of your 230 is from bow eye to the tip of the hull near the drain. Then measure the trailer with the winch post moved as far forward as possible.

The goal is to have the bunks end as close to the drain plug as possible. But more importantly having the balance point in the correct position on the trailer as well with the proper tongue weight. You may only find that out by testing the boat on the trailer. My quick guess is it is too short.

Do you know the capacity of that trailer shown? It looks to be a 4000lb trailer.

Good luck,

 

[Weebs74]

I think the trailer in it's current set up is 18' 6" from the bow stop to the back of the bunk. My AR is 20' from bow stop to transom, not including the overhang for the swim platform. Overall trailer length is 30 feet (reportedly). The stock trailer is about 27'. Current bunk setup would allow for some movement of the bunks back to give a little more length. my current trailer is homemade angle iron with stock axles. This "new" trailer is significantly more rigid. I may upgrade the axles and will redo the brakes if I buy it. I think I could change the bowstop as well to move the boat forward. boat weighs about 3700 with fuel.

 

[Betik]

It is hard to tell without looking at it, but with the info you have provided I would not put my 240 on that trailer. Even if you were to move the bow stopper 1 foot forward ( dont think you can go more than that), you will still end up being too heavy on on the rear axle and most likely very light on the tongue. I would say for short distances ( ie HI) and low speed you will probably be okay, but personally I would not take that risk.

In regard to the bunks, I would not loose sleep over them. you can buy the hardware and build new bunks.

what is the asking price for it? does it make sense to just buy the frame and then rebuld axles bunks etc ?

 

[Ronnie]

I recall seeing an interview of Reggie Fountain of Fountain boats where he stated that a boat’s transom should not overhand it’s trailer’s bunks because the transom can develop a hook over time. Just something else to consider as you shop for a trailer.

 

[Beachbummer]

If the overhang is minimal (a foot or less) I would consider it..AS LONG AS THE TONGUE WEIGHT WAS GOOD... With low tongue weight, swaying uncontrollably is a likely possibility. Best of luck!

 

[Weebs74]

I think i'm going to have to pass on this one. the trailer is 24ft overall and my old trailer is 27'. I don't want to go one inch shorter. I would rather have a touch more room than less.

 

[biffdotorg]

I recall seeing an interview of Reggie Fountain of Fountain boats where he stated that a boat’s transom should not overhand it’s trailer’s bunks because the transom can develop a hook over time. Just something else to consider as you shop for a trailer.

+1, rule of thumb has always been to run the bunks/rollers just past the transom while still supporting the hull when setting up a new trailer. The MFG is setting them up this way from the factory as well. Or at least they try to before the winch post flexes.

 

[Weebs74]

It is hard to tell without looking at it, but with the info you have provided I would not put my 240 on that trailer. Even if you were to move the bow stopper 1 foot forward ( dont think you can go more than that), you will still end up being too heavy on on the rear axle and most likely very light on the tongue. I would say for short distances ( ie HI) and low speed you will probably be okay, but personally I would not take that risk.

In regard to the bunks, I would not loose sleep over them. you can buy the hardware and build new bunks.

what is the asking price for it? does it make sense to just buy the frame and then rebuld axles bunks etc ?

The price is right. $1500. I just don't know that the frame is big enough overall. I am really concerned about the tongue weight if the trailer is too short and I have too much hanging off the back.

I don't really even know if my current trailer would be any good at hwy speeds. I drive 5 miles to the ramp at 35 mph in Hawaii.

 

[Ronnie]

@Weebs74 , how bad is your trailer? Got any pics?
If the frame isn’t rusted through you should be able to replace everything else for less than $1500 (before shipping fees).

 

[Weebs74]

My old frame is pretty flimsy...pretty rusted, and needs everything to be replaced. the frame is still in alright shape, but stripping and painting is not on my agenda. the metal is not galvanized and I only put into salt water.

I ended up buying the trailer above. the frame is simply amazing compared to mine. swing away tongue and brand new tires. that alone is worth 6-700 bucks. (on Hawaii anyway).

I will rehab this one and then sell my old trailer to someone who is interested in the work. Got my new trailer for $1250.