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will running with flush cap off overheat engine?

robertr

Jet Boat Addict
Messages
74
Reaction score
49
Points
87
Location
Miami, FL
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2003
Boat Model
SR
Boat Length
23
hi guys, took the 2003 sr230 out for the first time yesterday, as soon as I left the ramp, and just on no wake speed heading out the marina, the starboard overheat light started flashing, I really didn't check too good if I was not getting any or just little spurts of water coming out the pisser, came back to dock, no blockage in impeller or intake mesh screen, let it cool , and it did the same thing again, got back home, flushed the engine for 20 mins ,no overheating, but I did notice I had the flush valve cap off, I read some where that this will make the system loose pressure and not let water flow correctly to engine, I'm going to start trouble shooting but want to check first, besides that it didn't sink and no leaks so that was good, lol, I had installed new tstats before we took her out, and cleaned all the pisser lines out with air, they were clogged,

thanks
 
The flush port cap has no effect; there is a check valve in the port to prevent back flow. When you flush, pushing the probe/fitting into the port opens the valve; you must rotate the probe to hold the valve open.

It is not uncommon for the cap to vibrate loose or off.
 
Thanks Elliott, guess I got some troubleshooting to do, I did get a steady stream out the tstat pissers while on the hose, I’m gonna start at the Y ftg and make sure nothing is clogged in those lines and work my way back
 
An IR gun may be your friend. Several here while tracing overheat issues have used it to determine if the issue is a real overheat or just a sensor. By comparing the same spot on the 2 engines, you can figure out if you are really overheating...
 
Thanks, good idea
 
Correct me if I’m wrong but

At the Y ftg , one leg goes from intake screen from impelller duct housing which is where it sucks in sea water
The other leg of the Y goes to the hose flush attachment
These fees the manifold that feeds a couple of things , oil cooler, exhaust etc
So it either gets water from flush hose attachment or intake screen

now if it doesn’t overheat thru flush hose but does thru intake screen on the water , then it has to be something in that section of line from screen to Y?
 
I agree that the line from the impeller duct to the Y should be your first point of inquiry.

However, for many of us, water pressure that we are able to provide by the hose is not as much as normally is provided by the impellers. If you have high pressure on your hose, it may be that you are able to provide more water that way than by the impeller route. Not likely, but possible. In which case you may have some lesser obstruction after the Y which the hose can provide sufficient pressure to get enough water by, but the impeller route cannot. Such may be the case when you have water jackets in the engine that are clogged or something like that.

Hopefully that is not your case. Start back at the impeller duct by pulling the grate... Most likely something is amiss there, I would think.
 
Thanks , that makes sense , will start there
 
This may help.
 
Yep , watched that a bunch of times , very helpful
 
Need to fix this so we can get her out there
 

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I think I found the problem!

I went a little crazy with the silicone and it closed up the intake hole on the impeller housing

what do you guys think?
Put her back and go!
Thanks
 

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Which makes sense why it overheated just in idle , no water coming in, probably would of cleared if I had floored it but may have gotten stuck somewhere else
 
That could definitely be it. Hopefully no other bits broke off and went upstream. Clean that puppy up and give us a report that it is all fixed and on the water!
 
the good news, that was the problem with starboard engine, took her out ran excellent, hit about 40 mph, ran for about 10-20 mins at various rpms, during the run I felt the port side engine rpm change for a second, I figure we sucked up something but it went thru and kept acting fine, after a little while I throttled down and port engine gave overheat light, turn her off and checked clean out , had some see weed on the impeller and on the grate, very little though, let it cool off and started it and it ran fine for a bit but then started overheating again, checked everything nothing stuck, let it cool off, and it did the same thing again, tstat pissers where flowing and hot, limped back on one engine, I was getting a code 24 cam position sensor on the port engine, I took the housing off and i checked the impeller and such, I did see some silicone on the intake hole also so I am redoing all that , hopefully that was it also on this engine,

now , where is the cam position sensor and how to I check that, the engine ran fine with that code on though

thanks
pic and vids to follow
 
Code 24
 

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are you dummy lights on port engine flashing,

we don't see the cam position sensor error very often, You warning lights on your dash should flash in sequence if it's currently throwing a code, wondering if it wasn't a momentary problem and now the sensor it reading correctly (lights no longer flashing) or the error is still happening,


.
 
Hi Scott, yes they were flashing while cruising, two blinks a pause then 4 blinks, so I connected the ydis and it showed it, just wondering where it is, maybe its a loose connector,
thanks
All sensors show normal when I ran the diagnostics, maybe I'll just clear it and see if it goes away
 
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