Winterizing Questions

[Luc Lafreniere]

Hi folks,

I purchased my boat this year. I've been doing a lot of reading (including the section on the topic in the Scarab forum) on winterizing/maintenance and have various questions. If you're able to answer some or all, I'd appreciate your knowledge and experience.

1. Considering there are big, bright red letters indicating NOT to fog the engine but the entire internet (because I always believe the internet) and it seems all of Canadian boat dealers/shops fog... I'm very conflicted. Can someone explain why I should not fog? Every video I've seen including the one linked to in the Scarab forum fog the engine. Every shop I've spoken to fogs the engine including Rotax engines. I had never heard of not fogging an engine here in Canada until this forum. Keep in mind, my boat will be stored about 6-7 months with temperatures reaching down to -30C but hovering around -15C regularly (-22F and 5F for my neighbours down south).

2. If I do fog, do I use the XPS standard lube? Or do I use the proper fogging spray made by XPS... I've seen both being used in different videos.

3. To confirm, the torx bolt for the filter is an E-10?

4. I purchased a hydrometer to check antifreeze, if after 2 years it still reads fine, should I still replace it? Or should I always trust the hydrometer?

Otherwise in case you have any comments on the following, I've purchased:
- the MityVac 7400 fluid extractor for oil changes
- a small drill pump for antifreeze flushing
- fuel stabilizer
- planning on buying the approved XPS oil blend and filter
- planning on replacing my spark plugs every year
- the Genius G3500 battery charger/maintainer, battery will be in my garage connected to this

I think that's it. Sorry for the lengthy post... first time doing all of this, just want to make sure I'm good. I've watched the various videos on procedures, I think I'm good for the rest. Not planning on opening the pump/impeller myself... I think I'll get that done by a shop every few years.

Merci.

 

[Speedling]

Interested but not knowledgeable for the scarabs. Perhaps it does something to supercharger? Perhaps it was more about where you spray not if. Yamahas i think you should in order to protect the valves.
@Ron@Scarab and @ScarabMike would probably be my guys to ask

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

Thanks, just to be clear, I have the basic 150HP engine. Pretty sure (but not certain, not an engine guy and learning all of this) that I have no supercharger.

 

[ScarabMike]

Winterizing the Rotax is very easy. DO NOT FOG unless the boat will be stored for more than 12 months. Fogging can hurt the engine's sensors. The Rotax is a closed loop engine, and it is not as likely to corrode as open loop engines. All you have to do is run some coolant/water mix through the exhaust. Just as you would when you flush the boat. Make sure you use environmentally friendly coolant. Once thats done, seal the exhaust port along side the pump with painters tape. Spray the engine, and pump area with silicone spray like CRC, or equivalent. Then add fuel stabilizer to the tank. Disconnect the battery, or place it on a trickle charger/maintainer.

 

[Speedling]

Thanks, just to be clear, I have the basic 150HP engine. Pretty sure (but not certain, not an engine guy and learning all of this) that I have no supercharger.

Then i would think you would be ok to fog. Just my personal opinion which counts for nothing

 

[ScarabMike]

Dry it: The biggest enemy of cold winters is water freezing where it isn’t supposed to be. Before you do anything, start your watercraft engine and give it several short bursts of power to blow out any excess water in the exhaust system. Do this until you don’t see any water existing the exhaust port, but not more than 20 seconds.

Soak it: Another option to protect the exhaust system from freezing fluids is to run a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water through the exhaust system via the flush system. Produce a two gallon mix of antifreeze and water in a five gallon bucket and using a hose or using a water pump or bilge pump attaché to the flush outlet and start the watercraft engine. Flush the system with the antifreeze mix and then shut the engine off when the mix has filtered through the exhaust system thoroughly and completely. The antifreeze should protect any fluids from freezing in the exhaust system.

Battery Care: As you are prepare your Sea-Doo watercraft for hibernation, pay special attention to your battery. Your battery is where it all starts (or doesn’t start) and batteries can and do lose their ability to maintain a charge over time and proper battery storage is essential.

Your watercraft battery should be removed from your watercraft to ensure no draw of any kind is made on the battery during months of non-use. To keep your battery fresh and healthy we suggest a Yuasa Smart Shot Automatic Battery Charger be attached to the battery to maintain a full charge. Ensure the battery is place on a secure surface in an open-air location away from any flammable substances. If the battery is not showing a full charge after a day or two on the charger, ensure all connections are solid and if the battery still does not charge, it is time to replace the battery with a new Yuasa battery. Please see your local dealer about purchasing a new Yuasa battery for your Sea-Doo watercraft.

Fuel System Care: Time is the enemy with fuels that are untreated. This procedure should be conducted in below freezing climates as well as any time the Sea-Doo watercraft is going to be stored for an extended amount of time.

First, add a fuel stabilizer to the tank. The XPS’s fuel stabilizer will help prevent fuel contamination and residue build up in carburetor, fuel injection system and gas lines. This stabilizer should always be used before storing your Sea-Doo watercraft for a long period of time and is suitable for all gasoline engines. If you do not have a full tank, we recommend adding the stabilizer before you fill your tank, and we recommend to fill your tank with premium gasoline if possible.

To further ensure your fuel system will deliver fuel to the engine properly, check fuel hoses for leaks and loose or damaged hose clamps. If you smell fuel or worse yet see fuel in the bilge you will need to trace the source of the leak using your hands and/or fingers and replace worn or cracked fuel lines, clamps, or gaskets. Ensure you inspect your fuel cap and rubber gasket for cracks or leaks.

Winterizing is also the ideal time to check other normal wear items and possibly replace them if needed.

Drive Line: Wear on the impeller and impeller wear ring can negatively affect the performance of your watercraft. Even if you avoid ingesting a large rock into the jet pump system, shells, sand, pebbles, and other debris can wear the edges of the impeller and/or grind away at the wear ring.

The wear ring is a plastic ring that encases the impeller and is intended to sacrifice itself when debris is ingested as it is much less expensive and easier to replace than the high-performance stainless steal impeller. If you feel the acceleration isn’t what it used to be on your Sea-Doo watercraft a new wear ring can help return that legendary acceleration. The Sea-Doo wear ring is made of a high density polymer material and the part number can be found in the Sea-Doo Parts Catalog or contact your local dealer.

The impeller is what ultimately grabs the water and pushes you over it and even though it is produced a very high grade and hardened stainless steel. It is a finely tuned piece of the performance equation and a rock or other hard object can cause damage to the blades leading edge and rob performance. The impeller damage is usually easier to see than the wear ring as the leading edge is usually bent, chipped, torn. If the impeller is damaged a replacement is in order. If your impeller is damaged, we recommend consulting your local dealer.

And finish by completing the jet pump maintenance with a fresh dose of XPS jet pump oil. The water jet pump put tremendous pressure on the drive line and it is important that all moving parts are properly lubricated including the jet pump and the impeller shaft.

Lubrication: A fresh oil change with XPS 4-Stroke

synthetic oil and fresh oil filter is recommended to again ensure that your Sea-Doo watercraft will be ready to go as soon as you unwrap it for spring. XPS synthetic 4-stroke oilis specifically engineered to meet the particular lubrication requirements of Sea-Doo watercraft equipped with Rotax 4-TEC 4-stroke engines. And to finish the pre-storage care should always include a lubrication of all moving parts such as the steering nozzle pivot points and reverse/brake mechanisms with XPS Lube. It is also helpful to mist over the engine and electrical components with XPS Lube as it also displaces any left over water on components.

We know nobody looks forward to putting their Sea-Doo watercraft in hibernation but if you follow the above recommendations, come spring you will be on the water trouble free. Please consult your local dealer directly with any questions regarding winterizing your Sea-Doo watercraft.

 

[Speedling]

Winterizing the Rotax is very easy. DO NOT FOG unless the boat will be stored for more than 12 months. Fogging can hurt the engine's sensors. The Rotax is a closed loop engine, and it is not as likely to corrode as open loop engines. All you have to do is run some coolant/water mix through the exhaust. Just as you would when you flush the boat. Make sure you use environmentally friendly coolant. Once thats done, seal the exhaust port along side the pump with painters tape. Spray the engine, and pump area with silicone spray like CRC, or equivalent. Then add fuel stabilizer to the tank. Disconnect the battery, or place it on a trickle charger/maintainer.

Awesome and thanks! I wouldn't have thought of sensors

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

Ok, I trust you Mike! I won't be fogging. I've got almost everything to do all that.

Can someone confirm my questions 3 and 4? Also, for the filter, does anyone know what the torque strength should be?

 

[ScarabMike]

3. To confirm, the torx bolt for the filter is an E-10?
8mm socket works just fine if I remember correctly.
4. I purchased a hydrometer to check antifreeze, if after 2 years it still reads fine, should I still replace it? Or should I always trust the hydrometer?
2 years or 200 hours it needs to be replaced.

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

Thanks Mike.

 

[Speed_Freak_039A]

1/4" 12pt socket works also.

 

[Speed_Freak_039A]

To each their own. I fog mine. Just have to take the O2 sensors out if you have them. Put back in after starting it up in the spring. They hate oil like Mike said.

 

[2019scott195wake300]

is

Winterizing the Rotax is very easy. DO NOT FOG unless the boat will be stored for more than 12 months. Fogging can hurt the engine's sensors. The Rotax is a closed loop engine, and it is not as likely to corrode as open loop engines. All you have to do is run some coolant/water mix through the exhaust. Just as you would when you flush the boat. Make sure you use environmentally friendly coolant. Once thats done, seal the exhaust port along side the pump with painters tape. Spray the engine, and pump area with silicone spray like CRC, or equivalent. Then add fuel stabilizer to the tank. Disconnect the battery, or place it on a trickle charger/maintainer.

is this all i need to do with my scarab 195 300?

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

@2019scott195wake300 Yes. Beyond this is maintenance that you can do when you winterize or later. Just make sure you do those things and you'll be good to go.

 

[2019scott195wake300]

@2019scott195wake300 Yes. Beyond this is maintenance that you can do when you winterize or later. Just make sure you do those things and you'll be good to go.

thank you. i still plant to change the oil and every thing but just didnt know about the intercooler part. thanks again for all the help!

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

For the intercooler, you can optionally unclamp a hose to help drain it. But if you flush with enough antifreeze, there's no real need. But yes, the official manual says to make sure it's drained by removing a clamp and hose.