Winterizing vs. 10-Hour Service

[Stan M]

Okay - probably a dumb question. New 252S - Have only been able to run about 7.6 hours over last several weeks and season seems to be completely done. Do I merely winterize, or just go ahead with 10-hour service at this point and then winterize? Or, are they the same thing anyway, plus the fuel stabilizer, anti-freeze, fogging, etc.?

 

[Canuckjetboater]

Okay - probably a dumb question. New 252S - Have only been able to run about 7.6 hours over last several weeks and season seems to be completely done. Do I merely winterize, or just go ahead with 10-hour service at this point and then winterize? Or, are they the same thing anyway, plus the fuel stabilizer, anti-freeze, fogging, etc.?

@Stan M .....not a dumb question at all, you're looking for information - that's smart! IMO - warm engines on hose to operating temperature, change oil and filters, have Yamaha lubricant (marine "grease") added (as per your manual specifications) to your gear case zerk to lubricate its seal, lubricate cables and other moving parts, have anti-freeze run through your engines. I would have spark plugs removed (you could check them at the same time just to see the color and condition of the tips) then reinstalled them - this would better prevent them from becoming stuck after a winter lay-up, followed by a wait until you want change them at some point next summer. There are also recommended checks to be performed at the 10 hour period according to your manual. .....P.S. thanks @Sugarcharged for the reminder. If you are using ethanol fuel I would absolutely use fuel stabilizer. In fact for my last tank of the year I would switch to 91 if I was storing the boat. I still add fuel stabilizer even though I run 91 octane non-ethanol marine gas all the time because I have the SVHO supercharged engine.

 

[Sugarcharged]

Interesting. I was at my local dealer looking at a AR195 (that was already sold) and I asked about winterizing the Yamahas as if I was not following this great forum. His answer was: Just run the engine for 20 to 30 secs giving some thrust to remove any water and fuel stabilizer, that's it. I'm in the Midwest. Do you really need to run antifreeze and fog the engines or you would do it as "piece of mind"?

 

[Canuckjetboater]

Interesting. I was at my local dealer looking at a AR195 (that was already sold) and I asked about winterizing the Yamahas as if I was not following this great forum. His answer was: Just run the engine for 20 to 30 secs giving some thrust to remove any water and fuel stabilizer, that's it. I'm in the Midwest. Do you really need to run antifreeze and fog the engines or you would do it as "piece of mind"?

@Sugarcharged ..... I have always run antifreeze through all marine engines - more for the lubrication properties and that it inhibits rust whereas remnants of water, which there will be if you just run the engine, would likely promote rust in the engine. Cheap insurance. Yes, I recommend to always use fuel stabilizer, particularly if you use unleaded fuel. My engine is supercharged so I must use minimum 91 octane ( so no ethanol and the dreaded phase separation) but I still put a full bottle of fuel stabilizer in. In fact, if I was normally using ethanol fuel for my last tank of the year I would fill with 91 octane marine (non-ethanol) and still add fuel stabilizer. I have a supercharged engine (SVHO) so I must use 91 octane (non-ethanol marine gas) all the time and I still add fuel stabilizer. Regarding, "fogging": I fogged engines when I owned high horse power racing engines but I do not with the Yamaha engines I have owned as my fear is that some of the recent fuel injection and emissions control parts can be adversely affected by fogging - personal choice with that one.

 

[Neutron]

Even though Yamaha doesn't recommend antifreeze for winterizing, if i lived up north still, i would run it through with antifreeze. Cant hurt and can only help.
Fogging is good no mater where if the boat is being laid up for a while

 

[Crob83]

Interesting. I was at my local dealer looking at a AR195 (that was already sold) and I asked about winterizing the Yamahas as if I was not following this great forum. His answer was: Just run the engine for 20 to 30 secs giving some thrust to remove any water and fuel stabilizer, that's it. I'm in the Midwest. Do you really need to run antifreeze and fog the engines or you would do it as "piece of mind"?

I am in Indy as well obviously, I did not. I just flushed it with some hose water for the end of the season and shot the water out of the water box. Changed the oil and spark plugs, and greased everything I thought needed greased. Put her away in the garage (unheated) for the winter. Although warranty just approved the replacing of my glove box, so I do have to drop it off at Just Add Water tomorrow for 3-4 days. I will say they have been a pleasure to work with thru the whole process

 

[jdkaeser]

I have a supercharged engine and I don't do a typical fogging as you would be running the fogging oil through the supercharger and that makes me a bit nervous. So I just pull the plugs and squirt fogging oil in each cylinder, put a folded towel over the open spark plug holes, pull the lanyard and just crank it several times to lubricate everything, then replace with the old plugs. Then I do my oil changes and new plugs in the Spring after I get it out of storage and get it started. I don't use antifreeze either.

 

[Canuckjetboater]

I have a supercharged engine and I don't do a typical fogging as you would be running the fogging oil through the supercharger and that makes me a bit nervous. So I just pull the plugs and squirt fogging oil in each cylinder, put a folded towel over the open spark plug holes, pull the lanyard and just crank it several times to lubricate everything, then replace with the old plugs. Then I do my oil changes and new plugs in the Spring after I get it out of storage and get it started. I don't use antifreeze either.

@jdkaeser ..... FWIW I could agree with everything except leaving used engine oil with contaminants, acids and particulate in an engine over any extended period.

 

[Neutron]

@jdkaeser ..... FWIW I could agree with everything except leaving used engine oil with contaminants, acids and particulate in an engine over any extended period.

Right all correct storage or winterizations have you get rid of old oil prior to lay up

 

[Stan M]

Thanks @Canuckjetboater !

 

[Stan M]

All great information and thanks for the responses! I guess my real question is, since I haven't quite reached 10 hours yet, am I going to have to re-do the 10 hour service after running for 2.5 hours next spring?

 

[Sean R]

Don't forget to remove your batteries. When it comes to fogging the eng i did when I lived in MI and my old boat would be stored for 5 month. Now in GA I don't but at least once during the winter my wife and I will go to the marine and ill put the batteries in hook it to a hose, listen to some tunes and let it run. We also bring a few drinks ?

 

[Canuckjetboater]

All great information and thanks for the responses! I guess my real question is, since I haven't quite reached 10 hours yet, am I going to have to re-do the 10 hour service after running for 2.5 hours next spring?

@Stan M......my answer would be no that it is close enough to not violate any warranty and you do want IMO to change your oil as even with 7.5 hours there will be acids, carbons, particulates and maybe even some microscopic metals in it from break-in. I would highly recommend not leaving that in the engine all winter. I would proceed with normal winterization.

 

[Bluewater272]

All great information and thanks for the responses! I guess my real question is, since I haven't quite reached 10 hours yet, am I going to have to re-do the 10 hour service after running for 2.5 hours next spring?

I wouldn't bother repeating at 10 hours. Close enough for horseshoes.