Yamaha 212ss port engine overheat

[agarabaghi]

I'm trying to track down my overheating issue.
So far I have both cooling holes peeing off the side of the boat pretty evenly. Even once the alarm has gone off in the port engine and it enters limp mode the water temp coming out of the pee holes are pretty even.

1) cleaned strainers at jet behind the metal plate
2) cleaned intake grates.
3) replaced thermostats

I pulled the hose from the top of the oil cooler and ran engine for a second and water comes out (going to pee hole) so it seems like nothing is blocking?

Looking for ideas / sensor to replace?

Is there anything I can take a temp reading off to see where it's running hot?

 

[anmut]

Any chance you sucked up sand or muck? Are you in salt water?

Have you reset the battery a few times to make sure it's not a stored code?

Do you have an IR temp gun - cheap on Amazon if not. If so - run both in the water and take readings from your exhaust manifolds, comparing the difference.

 

[agarabaghi]

Its mostly in Freshwater.
I pulled the hose off the oil cooler right before it goes to the pee hole, and it was flowing good. The pee out the side is equal between both engines.

I reset the battery and it goes away, but if i run it for a while it throws the code and goes into lump mode again.

I have an IR gun, and on the water when the code went off, both engines were identical temps. 160-165 at the manifold. 202 - 215 at the bottom of the engine, 99F at the sensor on the exhaust, 165-175 at the cylinders. Both engines showing the same temps roughly.

My thoughs were to swap the sensor between the 2 engines and see if the code moves with it.

Any tricks to ensure theres nothing stuck some where, I would expect the flow to be affected if something was jammed / clogged?

 

[WREKS]

The 202 - 215 at the bottom of the engine reading seems suspect, I think most overheats occur when such temps register near the cylinder water jackets.

 

[agarabaghi]

I'm assuming there is a line going there I could check and clean. Does anyone have a diagram?

Also is there a place I can get the service manual for a 2015 212ss paid or free? Preferably an online copy.

 

[Dicknows32]

So not sure as I have an AR 220 and still not even sure this is the issue but I have heard these boats have a mind of their own when it comes to voltage. My wife accidentally turned the batteries in parallel and it started throwing the overheat warning on the port side engine.

 

[Alfredg]

So not sure as I have an AR 220 and still not even sure this is the issue but I have heard these boats have a mind of their own when it comes to voltage. My wife accidentally turned the batteries in parallel and it started throwing the overheat warning on the port side engine.

I'm having this same problem right now. I just bought my 2024 ar220 this past weekend in Saint George Utah. Took it to lake powell for break in. At the 3rd stage of break-in, it gave OH on port side engine. Checked the clean out ports and all is well. Water is good at the water cooling pilots Called the dealership and they told me to check a few things. They're in saint George Utah, I'm in rio rancho NM. And we don't have a certified jetboart dealer here. I'm going to check the action items the owner told me to check after work and see what's wrong. If anyone has any advice on what else I can look into, I appreciate it.

 

[Alfredg]

The 202 - 215 at the bottom of the engine reading seems suspect, I think most overheats occur when such temps register near the cylinder water jackets.

You can find diagrams on partzilla.com plug in your year, and model of your boat and it'll pull up the manual for it.

 

[Dicknows32]

I'm having this same problem right now. I just bought my 2024 ar220 this past weekend in Saint George Utah. Took it to lake powell for break in. At the 3rd stage of break-in, it gave OH on port side engine. Checked the clean out ports and all is well. Water is good at the water cooling pilots Called the dealership and they told me to check a few things. They're in saint George Utah, I'm in rio rancho NM. And we don't have a certified jetboart dealer here. I'm going to check the action items the owner told me to check after work and see what's wrong. If anyone has any advice on what else I can look into, I appreciate it.

Mine was the batteries being in parallel by mistake. No more issues. Good luck

 

[Alfredg]

Mine was the batteries being in parallel by mistake. No more issues. Good luck

Wow...the parallel was on the whole time. The salesman didn't tell me that, that had to be off. When I picked it up from the dealer, the parallel was on so I assumed it always had to be on. Thank you for this info. I will try this when I got to the lake in a couple of weeks.

 

[FSHER]

Totally not trying to sound like a jerk but my wife said she wouldn't get on the boat with me as the captain unless I read the owners manual first. There was a lot of silly information and obvious stuff but there was definitely just as much useful information as well, including battery operation and care. Check it out. I'm sure the salesman never picked up the book.

To test the parallel battery theory, you could hook that motor up to a flush kit and see if it overheats?

-Mark

 

[Alfredg]

Totally not trying to sound like a jerk but my wife said she wouldn't get on the boat with me as the captain unless I read the owners manual first. There was a lot of silly information and obvious stuff but there was definitely just as much useful information as well, including battery operation and care. Check it out. I'm sure the salesman never picked up the book.

To test the parallel battery theory, you could hook that motor up to a flush kit and see if it overheats?

-Mark

Didn't take any offense at all to that comment and you're wife is probably right lol. Honestly, I'm guilty of taking the salesperson's word and information when I should have just read the owners manual and done my own research which I've always done. With @Dicknows32 mentioning the Parallel switch, it was enough for me to look it up in the manual and sure enough it was stated in there. With that said, I started reading the manual last night and I will be testing it this afternoon. I'm almost 100% sure that was causing the alarms because I checked everything else that was suggested to check on here. BTW this is probably the best forum I've seen. alot of knowledge shared here.

 

[Alfredg]

Mine was the batteries being in parallel by mistake. No more issues. Good luck

**Update**

I took my boat out this last weekend. and everything ran fine. no issues, no alarms after I've turned off the Parallel Switch. Ran it for about an hour and temp alarm and check engine came on again on the Port . checked the engine and laser temped the port side (because for some reason, Connext on the 2024 AR220 doesn't have temp gauge on the display) and it was around 190-200 Degrees. check the STABD and same. I shut the batteries off for a few minutes and it went away. Ran it again and alarms went off... AGAIN. there's water coming of the Pilots and the engine temps were steady at 190-200 degrees. No debris or blockage in the cleanout ports. At this point it's gotta be a faulty Sensor. I looked on Part Zilla and there's 3 sections to the Thermostat Assembly wiring. I'm thinking about just buying all 3 and replace them all. Does anyone if there's an ODB port on these boats and is there an ODB Scanner I can purchase?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Dixemon]

is this sand related? did you beach the boat or run shallow at low speeds? Could be a sensor, or could be that whatever is floating around in the block is continuing to foul the thermostat.

 

[Alfredg]

is this sand related? did you beach the boat or run shallow at low speeds? Could be a sensor, or could be that whatever is floating around in the block is continuing to foul the thermostat.

No sand related, have not beached it. I've kept it around 3-4ft of water depth when anchoring. I've had jet skis but first time owner of a jetboat. do you or anyone have any recommendations on what I should check? Unfortunately I don't have certified Jetboat dealers in my city and I had to go 9 hours to purchase this one. I really don't want to travel that far for something I can do myself.

 

[lazergeek]

**Update**

I took my boat out this last weekend. and everything ran fine. no issues, no alarms after I've turned off the Parallel Switch. Ran it for about an hour and temp alarm and check engine came on again on the Port . checked the engine and laser temped the port side (because for some reason, Connext on the 2024 AR220 doesn't have temp gauge on the display) and it was around 190-200 Degrees. check the STABD and same. I shut the batteries off for a few minutes and it went away. Ran it again and alarms went off... AGAIN. there's water coming of the Pilots and the engine temps were steady at 190-200 degrees. No debris or blockage in the cleanout ports. At this point it's gotta be a faulty Sensor. I looked on Part Zilla and there's 3 sections to the Thermostat Assembly wiring. I'm thinking about just buying all 3 and replace them all. Does anyone if there's an ODB port on these boats and is there an ODB Scanner I can purchase?

Thanks in advance!

No Generic scanner will work. You will have to use the a computer with YDS and the connector. Not sure if the versions sold on Ebay work on newer boats as they required a certain YDS Version.

 

[David Martin]

My advice is a Dealer service manual............now its a good idea to swap sensors from one engine to another.................but at that point voltage checking the sensor and running an OHM is easy with a multi meter that has Ohm switch.

Let me give you an example on my 2013 SX240 lets take the engine temp sensor disconnect sensor attach volt meter to wires in connector and bump engine over with key....................voltage input should be 4.75 to 5.25 anything outside this voltage will allow the EMC to trip alarm. Now you remove sensor to move to other engine but before you do drop the sensor in a bowl of 68 degrees tap water and turn Ohm meter on and it should read 54.2 to 69.0 Kili ohms and at 212 degrees boiling water it should read 3.12 to 3.48 Kili ohms anything outside the range tells the EMC to set off alarm.

If it does not pass voltage or ohm......... why bother to remove the good engine. Now just do this on the other 3 or 4 sensor you plan to move before long you might find the PIA needle in the hay stack that's giving you the grief.

 

[Alfredg]

My advice is a Dealer service manual............now its a good idea to swap sensors from one engine to another.................but at that point voltage checking the sensor and running an OHM is easy with a multi meter that has Ohm switch.

Let me give you an example on my 2013 SX240 lets take the engine temp sensor disconnect sensor attach volt meter to wires in connector and bump engine over with key....................voltage input should be 4.75 to 5.25 anything outside this voltage will allow the EMC to trip alarm. Now you remove sensor to move to other engine but before you do drop the sensor in a bowl of 68 degrees tap water and turn Ohm meter on and it should read 54.2 to 69.0 Kili ohms and at 212 degrees boiling water it should read 3.12 to 3.48 Kili ohms anything outside the range tells the EMC to set off alarm.

If it does not pass voltage or ohm......... why bother to remove the good engine. Now just do this on the other 3 or 4 sensor you plan to move before long you might find the PIA needle in the hay stack that's giving you the grief.

Thanks David! I'm hoping it's just a faulty sensor because I just bought this thing like 5 weeks ago. these are pretty good little hacks I'll try this. will update you soon.

 

[David Martin]

Their is even a air temp sensor in the intake manifold that could set off an alarm...... that comes to around 5 sensors maybe more on you newer boat.

 

[UnfixedPyle]

I have gone deep, deep down into the overheat rabbit hole.... If you hold down the settings symbol on Connext screen you can go do the diagnostics menu. Select the engine, and you can see if there are any codes. These relate directly to which sensor is the problem, sort of.

Diagnostic Code 15 with OBD-M code 52107 will be the engine temperature sensor (rear of engine)
Diagnostic Code 65 with OBD-M code 521022 will be the Exhaust manifold water temp sensor (called Thermo Sensor in the diagrams).
You can check these by just unplugging the sensors, they will pop the codes.

If you don't have a code (YDS-1) then it is going to be the Thermo Switch (the one at the front of the engine). It toom many trips to the dealer and showing them the service manual before they finally tested this switch and it was bad. It is a binary switch, so when it is out of spec it just doens't work right. You can unplug this switch and it will eventually trip the overheat, but the logic is not all clear to me. Best I can figure is that the computer is checking the position of the switch based on the temperature its reading on the temperature sensor. This switch is supposed to turn on between 201-212 degrees and turn off on the cool down between 201-176 degrees. However it works you just can't unplug it because it will still "overheat" and put you into limp mode. You can however unplug all three sensors and you will just have a check engine light, it will yell at you every time you start up, but you can run the engine no problem.

Anyway, they replaced it after it tested bad, and I didn't have problems for over about a year. Just thew a code on my last trip with the same symptoms. Instead of dealing with the dealer I just ordered the part and installed it. I guess they are having a lot of failures with these???

The problem with the Thermo Switch is that you have to remove the intake manifold to remove it. Trust me on this one, I have tried everything and the intake manifold physically blocks the bolt from coming out. If you don't want to deal with removing the intake manifold then make the dealer pull it and test it under warranty (if you have it). I didn't want to wait weeks on the dealer again in prime summer time so I just did this myself today. I guess I will see how long the new one lasts.