Zipwake install on 2023 Yamaha 252SD

[shortroyd]

This forum was really helpful when researching this (particularly this thread) so I thought I would pay it forward by documenting my own Zipwake install.

Boat is a 2023 Yamaha 252SD
Zipwake 300S

A few things I was anxious about when planning this:

1. How hard is it to run wires from the cockpit to the engine bay
2. Can I access the area behind where the Interceptors get installed, for a thru-hull below the waterline install
3. How to wire the electrical components

 

[shortroyd]

Why add the Zipwakes?

We are enjoying taking the boat out around Moreton Bay and beyond but the bigger waves make one of my little ones a bit boat sick. So hoping the Zipwake will help the boat handle the chop a bit better.

 

[shortroyd]

Running cable to control panel

First up I checked if I could run the control cable from the cockpit to the engine bay - no point drilling holes if this wasn’t possible!

This turned out to be easy enough. Sucked in my tummy and squeezed into the hatch behind the instruments. Using a cable puller it was easy enough to poke it around the side and into the storage hatch. Then from the storage hatch to the engine bay. Taped the cable to that and got a kid to pull it through.

 

[shortroyd]

Opening the bilge

From the engine bay I knew I could get cables to the bilge, but wasn’t sure how far into the bilge I could get.

I had to undo the screws and pull off the bilge access panel. From there I got a bit of a sense of what kind of access I have. After removing the screws, just had to wobble it as I pulled it out so that the sealant broke.



I also removed all the cup holders from the back - this also gave me a bit more access. This is easy enough - the chrome covers twist off with enough force, and then 3 screws are accessible which hold in the cup holders. In retrospect removing these wasn’t necessary, but I wasn’t sure where the Interceptor holes were going to go so I wanted to be able to see as much as I could before I drilled any holes.

 

[shortroyd]

Drilling the holes for the interceptors

This part is explained well enough in all the videos and instructions on installing these, so not much to add.

Here are some progress photos. Forgot to mention, I keep the boat on an AirBerth suspended above the water, so had to be careful not to drop anything. I did drop a T30 Torx bit into the water but lucky I had a few spare. Could have been worse!

For the sealant around the screws I used 3M 5200. The fibreglass is about half an inch/12mm thick as a guess in that area. I installed the Interceptors about 30mm from the dark grey metal thing under the jets.

 

[shortroyd]

Uhhh where is that water coming from?

As I was drilling the holes on the port side and got to the last two holes, water started leaking out!

The leak started when I drilled the leftmost bottom hole, and then when I drilled the leftmost top hole it also came out of that one.

This is the opposite side to the shower, and far enough away from the exhaust, so I’m not sure where it’s coming from. And strange that no water came out of the other holes. From what I can tell, near those holes there is a separate part to the bilge, kinda like a box area, and maybe it got full of water somehow. I’m going to try to figure out where it came from before I put the access hatch back in place but would appreciate any tips!

 

[shortroyd]

This as far as I got today - I started around 3pm and this is about 6pm when the sun was setting.

Next time I get time to work on it I’ll post more here. Let me know if you are interested in anything and I’ll be sure to get a photo.

 

[shortroyd]

The bigger hole where the cable runs to the interceptor just uses a rubber washer and a nut on the other side to make it watertight. The instructions are clear not to use sealant on this hole. But this part makes me nervous as it seems most subject to leaking. Curious to see how water tight it is. I think I won’t seal the bilge access hatch down until I take the boat out and verify no water is getting in via that hole.

 

[shortroyd]

The other thing I’m not sure about is the electrical.

From the battery I think I want it wired not directly to the battery, but after the isolator switch, so that it’s only drawing current when the batteries are turned on. There is a big busbar marked as the house busbar, and I think this is only powered when the isolator it turned on, but I am going to check that with a multi meter. This should be easy to figure out eventually.

The control panel is also meant to be wired to the ignition switch so that it only powers on when the boat is on. But I think I will just connect this to one of the wires that runs to the USB charging port, since I have a push button ignition anyway, and if the USB power is on then the Zipwakes may as well be.

 

[shortroyd]

I am also going to get some split corrugated conduit to go over any cables where they go through holes in the fibreglass, so that they are protected from scratching.

 

[VitaminSea]

Thanks for documenting your install. Don’t forgot the picture of the bilge area with the cable gland.
Looking forward to your impressions.

 

[Judge]

Uhhh where is that water coming from?

As I was drilling the holes on the port side and got to the last two holes, water started leaking out!

The leak started when I drilled the leftmost bottom hole, and then when I drilled the leftmost top hole it also came out of that one.

This is the opposite side to the shower, and far enough away from the exhaust, so I’m not sure where it’s coming from. And strange that no water came out of the other holes. From what I can tell, near those holes there is a separate part to the bilge, kinda like a box area, and maybe it got full of water somehow. I’m going to try to figure out where it came from before I put the access hatch back in place but would appreciate any tips!


View attachment 207275

I saw a similar post where someone was installing Lectrotabs and when they drilled into the transom a couple holes started to drain water. A little disconcerting that there would be water staying in the hull like that and not draining through the bilge.

I'm in the process of preparing for a Lectrotab installation on my '22 275SD so your fish tape post was helpful. I was having some issues and got my tape stuck. I ended up pulling the small console with the switches and the throttle assembly so I can get in there better and manipulate the fish tape and wires if needed. I'm pretty sure I should be able to get the wiring to the help for the Lectrotabs and a Garmin chartplotter I am going to install as well.

 

[shortroyd]

Doing up the nuts on the through hull fittings

I think I got really lucky here. The starboard side I had easy access and was able to do it up. But because the back of the transom curves here, it’s only really snug on one side. Think I might put some packers in to flatten out and distribute the load.





The port side was a lot harder. Here is the problem - the threaded rod that cable comes through only just clears the exhaust pipe (this was 100% luck). But I couldn’t get the nut on. So this one took about half an hour of futzing around undoing the outside, threading it on a little, and tightening it. If I had installed the interceptor further to the right it would have cleared it better, but then I would have the opposite problem on the other side.



In the process of doing it over and over, one of the screws that holds the servo unit to the back plate stripped the thread - you have to be so careful not to over tighten this. I need to figure out something to plug this with so I can get the screw to hold it in.

 

[VitaminSea]

Wow, that was a close call on the port side. As for the stripped threads, can you use an epoxy (JB Weld, Marine Tex, etc.), let it set, and then tap it?

Also while you are in the bilge area, great opportunity to treat all of the hose clamps to avoid corrosion from the salt water. I favor CorrosionX-HD, others have suggested White Lithium, or similar products.

 

[anmut]

LOL I feel like an old boomer... "what the hell is zip wake?"

 

[suke]

LOL I feel like an old boomer... "what the hell is zip wake?"

I initially thought it was some sort of tab system like GSA for wake/tow sports......I'm nearly certain that's not it, but yet still don't know what it actually is. LOL!

 

[anmut]

I initially thought it was some sort of tab system like GSA for wake/tow sports......I'm nearly certain that's not it, but yet still don't know what it actually is. LOL!

I looked it up, it's a tab system that's automatic using a gyroscope - kinda cool. Still wish someone would make a surf tab or wedge for these boats...

 

[suke]

I looked it up, it's a tab system that's automatic using a gyroscope - kinda cool. Still wish someone would make a surf tab or wedge for these boats...

Couldn't agree more! That's ONE thing that I would probably spend good money to install. Wonder if we could retrofit the tabs from the new boats?

 

[anmut]

Couldn't agree more! That's ONE thing that I would probably spend good money to install. Wonder if we could retrofit the tabs from the new boats?

The auto wake wedges? Maybe... but it would probably be expensive to use Yamaha's hardware. I always wondered if a guy could just install tabs backwards and underneath (like a wake wedge) on actuators that could be deployed at will.

 

[Scottintexas]

The auto wake wedges? Maybe... but it would probably be expensive to use Yamaha's hardware. I always wondered if a guy could just install tabs backwards and underneath (like a wake wedge) on actuators that could be deployed at will.

I think somebody did automate their wake wedge, but that's been many years ago,