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check engine no code no crank no nuttin

jgiovino

Jet Boat Addict
Messages
40
Reaction score
6
Points
97
Location
Melbourne FLorida
Boat Make
Glastron
Year
2014
Boat Model
GTS
Boat Length
20
I have a strange problem and out of ideas.

2014 glastron 207
rotax 250
31.4 hours

Yesterday
Ran the battery down after sitting with battery switch 'on' for a couple months.
No start with trickle charger.
replaced battery with blue top marine optima
Everything is great, runs fine no problems.
turned on and off numerous times out on the water.
When I went to flush boat it did not start, did not crank.
After a minute it fired up like nothing had happened
flushed and buttoned up.

Today
boat started no problems at all
pulled out of dock and shut down about a minute later
picked up my kids, fired up again no problem.
Shut down about 2 minutes later to drop tube and kids in water
No start, no cranking, just a "check engine" on the gauge.
pushed boat back to dock, luckily i didn't drive too far before dropping kids in.

I tested neutral safety switch, safety harness kill switch, ignition voltage.
all fine. 'bumped' the starter relay and it cranks too.
Don't know where oil sender is but would expect that to throw a code.

Also, no codes on gauge cluster, not sure if that means anything on my boat, however.

Any and all ideas are appreciated.
Thank you.
 
Last edited:
@ScarabMike he is a Rotax guy and pretty knowledgeable, just going to tag as he may be able to help and not see this.

Sounds like a start solenoid maybe not wanting to crank when hot? But again I'm not familiar with Rotax...
 
Wierd.
I am just throwing a wild guess at two things.
One could be that you have a bad connection to something either on battery, computer, starter or switch.
Second, and i just learned this is possible, a corroded fuse. I had a fuse corrode badly and an amp would try to turn on but then just totally shut off all due to a fuse that was "rusty". Check them all out.
 
Check the diagnostic plug next to the fuse block. Make sure it is seated. I'm not sure where the fuse block is on the Glastron, but in this thread it shows what it looks like.
https://jetboaters.net/threads/cut-out-and-then-one-beep.9494/

Also check your coil packs. Make sure they are snug and seated properly.
 
Thank you. I was unable to find the lead to the solenoid to test properly it got too dark.
I do not hear any noise coming from it with key to crank position.
When I bumped it with ignition on it cranked fine but did not fire at all.
 
Thank you.
Wierd.
I am just throwing a wild guess at two things.
One could be that you have a bad connection to something either on battery, computer, starter or switch.
Second, and i just learned this is possible, a corroded fuse. I had a fuse corrode badly and an amp would try to turn on but then just totally shut off all due to a fuse that was "rusty". Check them all out.
I hope so, I've been fumbling around trying to reseat connectors, I will check all the fuses, unfortunately there are a couple black boxes in the fuse block that I'm not sure how to test.
 
Check the diagnostic plug next to the fuse block. Make sure it is seated. I'm not sure where the fuse block is on the Glastron, but in this thread it shows what it looks like.
https://jetboaters.net/threads/cut-out-and-then-one-beep.9494/

Also check your coil packs. Make sure they are snug and seated properly.
Thank you,
That fuse box is right next to my battery and I probably knocked some things around there trying to wedge the new battery in.
I will try to hunt down that diagnostic plug, I don't remember seeing it when I was in there.

I appreciate everybody's help.
 
20160530_200940.jpg

Dummy Question: Are these popped?

I pushed all the fuses and ASSUMED they were set.
After I took the picture... not so much.
The ones across the top are pretty much flush.
the 'important' looking ones are not.

How do you reset these if there popped?

Also, the rear two of three coil packs did snap in when I pressed them.
 
Does anybody know what diagnostic tool is required for use w/ BRP 4-TEC?
Can a CAN-AM shop or a jetski shop interface with this ECM?
My dealer told me they needed to ship the SW in to run diagnostic.
 
Those 3 breakers look like they are tripped, they should reset if you push them back in.
 
Those 3 breakers look like they are tripped, they should reset if you push them back in.
Thats what I thought too, dealer says thats the way they are. seems screwy to me. Anyway they won't push in any further.

Still waiting for the dealer to get back to me on weather they can work on the boat or not.
My dealer doesn't seem to have the tool; and nobody else around here does.
Meanwhile I have a 30G porch swing hanging in the lift.

What a joke. I bought this boat new one year ago, So I wouldn't have to be a boat mechanic (no offense) I spent all my time on all my previous boats wrenching and not boating.
Now I find out BRP specifically engineers in SW that purposefully keeps important information from the owner so you are FORCED to get raked over by the dealer.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRP-BUDS-MP...159155?hash=item3d1b4ee073:g:SNYAAOSwvUlWrmAP
Between the diagnostic tool, its software, keys, licenses, and who know what else, I don't even know If I could activate such a tool not being a dealer.

Does anyone know if joe-owner can license and use such a kit?

bottom line "Check Engine" and no code for the owner is criminal.
 
new info:
"Check Engine" flashes 6 times
Dealer does NOT have BRP BUDS diagnostic SW.
If this is happening to me then it can happen to all the other BRP owners.
Still searching for anyone w/ diagnostic SW in Brevard.
 
BETTER new info.
Just for sh*ts and g*ggles I held the key on crank for 40 seconds out of the blue.
key off, key on, crank, started.
wtf.

Now, I feel better that I could flush the boat.

still no codes
check engine flashed 5 times instead of six this time.
So I cycled it again.
Check engine flashed 4 time.
hmm..,
cycled again
check engine flashes 3 time
cycled again
check engine flashes 3 time.

Hopefully this can help another BRP owner.
 
just curious if the fuses look the same now that the engine is cranking?

could you take it to a seadoo pwc dealer to get them to read the engines since they are the same mfg? I know for Yamaha you could.

It stinks your dealer doesn't have the proper equipment to service a boat they sell, I just can't believe it but again it's 2016 and I'm getting old.
 
just curious if the fuses look the same now that the engine is cranking?
I don't quite follow. Please elaborate.
I did not change anything, only measure voltages and resistance here and there, and re-seat connectors and switches. None of this corrected the problem.

could you take it to a seadoo pwc dealer to get them to read the engines since they are the same mfg? I know for Yamaha you could.
There is one place around that has the SW but I would have to trailer 35 miles or so AND they confirmed they will not perform warranty work.

It stinks your dealer doesn't have the proper equipment to service a boat they sell, I just can't believe it but again it's 2016 and I'm getting old.
Tell me about it.
 
the fuses that looked like they were popped but were told that's what they were supposed to be like, just wondering if you double checked them after the engine starts now just to make sure something didn't happen to them,
I hate it when all of a sudden it just works and I don't understand what changed,
 
the fuses that looked like they were popped but were told that's what they were supposed to be like, just wondering if you double checked them after the engine starts now just to make sure something didn't happen to them,
I hate it when all of a sudden it just works and I don't understand what changed,

Oh yeah, sorry, that makes sense.
YES, the breakers still look like they are popped.

Good point, though.
 
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