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Exceeding hitch rating

Digging into the Audi specs, after market hitches are listing class 3 hitches with 770lb tongue weights and 7700 Trailer weight:
hitch capacities.PNG

So what I've read elsewhere that Class 3 tops out at 500/5000 is wrong?
 
Digging into the Audi specs, after market hitches are listing class 3 hitches with 770lb tongue weights and 7700 Trailer weight:
View attachment 90957

So what I've read elsewhere that Class 3 tops out at 500/5000 is wrong?

They may be quoting max rating with WDH, hard to say from the specs there. I think a good rule of thumb for this is definitely check with your specific vehicle and hitch setup, and use your best judgement. I will agree that a 6500# trailer behind a half ton pickup is less likely to need a WDH than the same trailer behind a unibody SUV with struts in the rear.
 
Will class iii hitch hardware do the job without fail on a 242 if the rest of the vehicle is up to it? Highly likely. Will a class IV? Most definitely.

My Ram 1500 and my wife’s Durango R/T both have class IV. It is interesting how some have class iii but are rated over 5k lbs. I did not know that was possible. A lot comes into play with the rating from the tires to the engine, transmission, axles, brakes, differentials, tires, wheel studs, suspension, lengeth from axle to hitch, and more. Just as important as that is how well all of that has been maintained.

@2kwik4u is making valid points about the forces at play. Moment forces can be huge and are frequently what cause things to break badly. I don’t think any modern half tons need to worry about towing a 24 ft jet boat directly on the ball as long as everyhting has been maintained and balanced properly. Start getting over 500lbs tounge and 6000 lbs total towed weight and wdh is a very good idea. Will a proper wdh for the trailer type help regardless? Sure. Is it needed for a 24 ft yamaha in my opinion once properly set up, no.

I have towed my 242 long distances a few times. Once I used the durango with 5 passengers on board too. It felt the side wind loads much more in the Durango and noticed it shifting a lot more with that 8 speed 5.7l hemi vs the 6 speed 5.7l in my truck. I would have rather had bags or a wdh in the rear of the Durango for that long of a tow but in no way did it feel unsafe under 75 mph. I think any suv rated over 6k lbs and preferably with load leveling air bags will be fine but a wdh would certainly help, particularly the ones without bags.

Add 30+ mph crosswids and all bets are off though. Pull over and wait for the weather to pass.
 
They may be quoting max rating with WDH, hard to say from the specs there. I think a good rule of thumb for this is definitely check with your specific vehicle and hitch setup, and use your best judgement. I will agree that a 6500# trailer behind a half ton pickup is less likely to need a WDH than the same trailer behind a unibody SUV with struts in the rear.
Nope...not weight distributing...Class III hitch. Oh well, nice and confusing. My Audi manual says 7700 lbs towing capacity...with tow kit installed (which I have)....so I'll trust Audi.
 
Nope...not weight distributing...Class III hitch. Oh well, nice and confusing. My Audi manual says 7700 lbs towing capacity...with tow kit installed (which I have)....so I'll trust Audi.
In my experience a Q7 tows better than any 1/2 ton pickup I know of, due its own weight, chassis strength and low CG, and completely superb traction control. Add TDI torque and it is amazing.

That said, Audi ratings are with the factory hitch - that stubby, massive, solid bar that is strait and does not work for our trailers as the ball sits few inches too low. So, there is that.

 
That said, Audi ratings are with the factory hitch - that stubby, massive, solid bar that is strait and does not work for our trailers as the ball sits few inches too low. So, there is that.

Just need the right hitch to get the ball at the correct height. Mine is about an inch low when I raise the suspension....I may just flip the hitch ball to the other side (but I think that might end up being an inch too high....I have 3 freakin hitches....I'll try with one!)
 
Just need the right hitch to get the ball at the correct height. Mine is about an inch low when I raise the suspension....I may just flip the hitch ball to the other side (but I think that might end up being an inch too high....I have 3 freakin hitches....I'll try with one!)
I know! I got sick of that.
I replaced this:
90965

With this:
90966

Not looking back.

 
I agree on the hitch class discussion which I think is somewhat misplaced.
I would say you are correct about WDH except when it comes to boat trailers wherein WDHs do not generally work.
I could be wrong though, could you point out which WDH to use with my tow vehicle and Yamaha/Shoreland'r trailer?

--
I’d look at the Anderson hitch. It uses chains instead of spring bars for weight distribution. You can lengthen or shorten the chains to fit around obstructions on the trailer. It will work on an A frame or Y frame trailer. And sway control is built into the trailer ball so it works if you have other trailers where you don’t need weight distribution.

And you can back up around tight turns without having to disconnect anything.


3B2F0879-E53A-4FF6-B5E7-D1EE2AAE30DA.png
 
I’d look at the Anderson hitch. It uses chains instead of spring bars for weight distribution. You can lengthen or shorten the chains to fit around obstructions on the trailer. It will work on an A frame or Y frame trailer. And sway control is built into the trailer ball so it works if you have other trailers where you don’t need weight distribution.

And you can back up around tight turns without having to disconnect anything.


View attachment 90967
I think I looked at those at some point, and between the coupler with the break actuator, the bow stop with the winch, the trailer jack, and the hinge for folding tongue it just was not working but I may need to look at this again. Would love that for some of the long trips we plan this summer.

 
I too took Swatski's route and went with an adjustable hitch, an Andersen 'Rapid Hitch.' Not WD but I've only got a 14' pop up and an AR195, towed by a Tundra so I don't need WD. Can totally vouch for the Andersen non WD hitch instead of one offs for each thing you tow. I've got the double ball of a 2" and a 2 5'16s plus another one of 1 7/8s. All quickly interchangeable. Worth spending the extra $ once to get one hitch for everything,
 
I’d look at the Anderson hitch. It uses chains instead of spring bars for weight distribution. You can lengthen or shorten the chains to fit around obstructions on the trailer. It will work on an A frame or Y frame trailer. And sway control is built into the trailer ball so it works if you have other trailers where you don’t need weight distribution.

And you can back up around tight turns without having to disconnect anything.


View attachment 90967
That is the best system I've seen to date. It's remarkably simple, distributes the weight well, and will give you free reign to back at severe angles.

It's my first choice when the time comes.
 
That's a negative, though close. I'm not sure when Yamaha stopped publishing the 'dry weight on trailer' specifications, but in 2017 the 242 LTD-S had a dry weight on trailer of 5,063lbs, which is no batteries, no fuel, no water, nothing on-board storage wise, etc. Considering the fact that nobody is towing around empty boats, most of us are sitting around 5500lbs even in barebones configuration (batteries, fuel, anchor, some PFDs, six pack of beer).

Actually according to the FAQ spreadsheets on the site here, up through 2016, the heaviest rig was the 242X E Series at 4914 wet weight including trailer. That's a full tank of fuel at 304lbs and trailer at 1241lbs.. I'm guessing you may be right that the 2017+ models may be heavier as our spreadsheets are not updated to those models.

Check out the FAQ for that info. It's good to know as it shows Dry weight of boat, trailer and wet weight.

The issues I see with the photos above of the broken hitch are two fold. That could have happened from too much tongue weight possibly more than weight of the load. And the fact that it shows a severe twist. There is more to that story. And what is with the bolt on receiver? Was it really that ghetto on GM"s side back int 2008? I had a Colorado back then, so I think mine may have been. But it was a mid sized truck. I do know the tongue weight was much less than a full size.
 
I know! I got sick of that.
I replaced this:
View attachment 90965

With this:
View attachment 90966

Not looking back.

I got this also and I see that my tongue weight is a little less than 500 pounds, however I did replace my class III with a Curt class IV that has a 1000 pound tongue weight rating. I also added Firestone air bags for a perfectly adjustable trailer/tow vehicle level ride. Main goal was to get that "peace of mind" and only enjoy our adventures. Thanks for your inputs and advice.
 
Man, I read all this.... and just sit back, cross my fingers and assume my setup is OK. Infiniti QX80 with factory tow package....
 
Actually according to the FAQ spreadsheets on the site here, up through 2016, the heaviest rig was the 242X E Series at 4914 wet weight including trailer. That's a full tank of fuel at 304lbs and trailer at 1241lbs.. I'm guessing you may be right that the 2017+ models may be heavier as our spreadsheets are not updated to those models.

Check out the FAQ for that info. It's good to know as it shows Dry weight of boat, trailer and wet weight.

The issues I see with the photos above of the broken hitch are two fold. That could have happened from too much tongue weight possibly more than weight of the load. And the fact that it shows a severe twist. There is more to that story. And what is with the bolt on receiver? Was it really that ghetto on GM"s side back int 2008? I had a Colorado back then, so I think mine may have been. But it was a mid sized truck. I do know the tongue weight was much less than a full size.
where's this spreadsheet? I must be overlooking it.
 
This why I ask, seems like most of us are using passenger vehicles that are only rated up to 5000 pounds. Wanted to know how critical those few extra pounds were.

I disagree. Seems like most of us are using either trucks or body on frame SUVs.

There are other things to think about with that tow rating. Cooling for your vehicle (ie do you want to wear it out faster), the weight of the trailer throwing your vehicle around (VERY hazardous), braking abilities, etc.

Your boat is an expensive investment. To enjoy it, you need to invest in a vehicle capable of hauling it. A midsize v6 truck could haul it no problem, let alone a full size truck or suv. Get the right tool for the job.
 
@haknslash do you have more info on that last bit? I have an ‘08 Tahoe.

The GM round tube hitches were all the same basic style. I would highly suggest swapping it out for a nice, stout square tube receiver hitch.

Though from what I have read it seems most of the time the issue happened when using a wdh with a higher tw.
 
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