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2019 AR190 Pump Pull

Huv1

Jet Boat Addict
Messages
50
Reaction score
48
Points
87
Location
Central Maine
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2019
Boat Model
AR
Boat Length
19
I decided to pull the pump prior to the season. I’ve not had it out yet so wanted to do it mostly for the practice but to also inspect things including any cavitation causing gaps in the tunnel. Now the problem, I couldn’t begin to budge any of the bolts. I leaned into them pretty hard to the point of concern of breaking one so I quit. I applied some lube spray, let it sit and tried again...nothin. I’ve watched several videos of guys just seemingly popping these out so I’m stumped. Anyone have any insight or an alternative method. I’m a little nervous now to continue since breaking something on a new boat, for simply inspection purposes, would be quite frustrating. Thanks in advance.
 
Following ... was going to pull mine too
 
I decided to pull the pump prior to the season. I’ve not had it out yet so wanted to do it mostly for the practice but to also inspect things including any cavitation causing gaps in the tunnel. Now the problem, I couldn’t begin to budge any of the bolts. I leaned into them pretty hard to the point of concern of breaking one so I quit. I applied some lube spray, let it sit and tried again...nothin. I’ve watched several videos of guys just seemingly popping these out so I’m stumped. Anyone have any insight or an alternative method. I’m a little nervous now to continue since breaking something on a new boat, for simply inspection purposes, would be quite frustrating. Thanks in advance.
Is this the new pump with the one large segment, and no separate wear ring and transom plate?
In the old pump the bolts holding the venturi nozzle are very long, so the thread is five inches down from the head of those bolts, if you are lubricating. The transom plate bolts are shorter but you probably do not need to go after those.
Do you have any pictures?

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I may have used an impact wrench on mine the first time. If you haven't tried that you might. Impact wrenches can sometimes loosen things you can't get with constant force.
 
I don’t have a pic and won’t be able to get one for another day or so. I’ve had the outer piece off to install the L-13 cone. @swatski, it looks like the bolts closer to the transom (4 bolts and 1 smaller bolt) need to come out to get the impeller out. This is a 2019 so to your question, I assume it’s a new one large segment but will get a pic when I can.
 
I don’t have a pic and won’t be able to get one for another day or so. I’ve had the outer piece off to install the L-13 cone. @swatski, it looks like the bolts closer to the transom (4 bolts and 1 smaller bolt) need to come out to get the impeller out. This is a 2019 so to your question, I assume it’s a new one large segment but will get a pic when I can.
Got it.
I would be real careful there.
I think that’s unfortunate the whole pump needs to come out to get to the impeller. I did not think of it but this is an immediate big negative for the new pump design I would say.
Do you have the shop manual? It would provide torque values - to compare, and may give some idea of what to expect, lol. I would also make sure that these things are not bolted through the transom, I don’t think they are (only transom plate is) but I would not venture to guess at this point.
The small bolt is particularly easy to strip from what I understand. Not surprisingly.

 
Last edited:
And just a general note: the right tool is important. If you are using an adjustable crescent wrench, you will definitely strip something. You should be using a socket wrench, if possible one with as few 'points' as possible to provide as much contact on the bolt as possible. If you look at an open-ended fixed crescent wrench, that contacts on 2 sides--not as good as contacting on all sides. There are closed box wrenches, which you will note, like some of the high-point sockets, have lots of points, so they contact the bolt only near the points. Best is one that contacts fully on all sides of the bolt.
 
And just a general note: the right tool is important. If you are using an adjustable crescent wrench, you will definitely strip something. You should be using a socket wrench, if possible one with as few 'points' as possible to provide as much contact on the bolt as possible. If you look at an open-ended fixed crescent wrench, that contacts on 2 sides--not as good as contacting on all sides. There are closed box wrenches, which you will note, like some of the high-point sockets, have lots of points, so they contact the bolt only near the points. Best is one that contacts fully on all sides of the bolt.
All great points. I was using a socket wrench with a 6 side metric socket so I think I was all set there. I've been looking at some other videos and I'm thinking that if I take the bolts out to remove the venturi nozzle that I can then just break the seal on the next section and pull out the impeller at that point and not mess the the 4 bigger and one smaller bolt closer to the transom. Will need to look at it when I get back tonight....and pass on a picture to you guys for reference.
 
I just did this installing the L13 cone on my ‘19 195. The ‘remove the outer bolts to get the impeller/pump out’ like the older boats isn’t the same anymore. I took off the bolts on the closest to the outside to install the cone and the impeller and pump wouldn’t budge.

You have to remove the inner bolts that’s buried against the transom. I didn’t this time as a trial run because I was also installing the Cobra fins and they basically now block a few of the transom bolts.

If I ever have to remove the impeller on a boating day to clear a new obstruction, it’s sadly probably not going to be in the parking lot. At least the first time.
 
I just did this installing the L13 cone on my ‘19 195. The ‘remove the outer bolts to get the impeller/pump out’ like the older boats isn’t the same anymore. I took off the bolts on the closest to the outside to install the cone and the impeller and pump wouldn’t budge.

You have to remove the inner bolts that’s buried against the transom. I didn’t this time as a trial run because I was also installing the Cobra fins and they basically now block a few of the transom bolts.

If I ever have to remove the impeller on a boating day to clear a new obstruction, it’s sadly probably not going to be in the parking lot. At least the first time.
I was afraid of that. The days of popping it off quickly to pull out a stick or something seems to be over. Thanks for the insight.
 
Ok, I have an update with more insight. Turns out that I got the back bolts out. Just needed a bigger breaker bar and longer extension and they popped free with no issue. I thought I could pull out the entire thing without removing the Venturi nozzle first...nope. The outer end of the ride plate turns up just enough that it won’t clear without taking the outer part off first. Just a little learning curve from me that will hopefully save someone else some time and frustration. Also, I bought a small, longer handle pry bar which worked perfectly to break the seal once the bolts were out. I believe that saved a lot of messing around to get it free...highly recommend. I haven’t put it back together yet, but all in all I’m happy I did it before I needed to do it. If I ever get a stick in there I feel comfortable to get it taken care of fairly quickly. I had to take apart one side of the cobra fins to get the steering linkage unhooked. A little nuisance but still not an issue. Too bad it doesn’t work right with the bolt in upside down since that would save me having to mess with the fin at all. Anyway...hope this helps someone with the 2019 model thinking of doing the same thing.
 
Excellent! A couple of things, please: 1) Can you post some photos of your adventure? 2) What pry bar did you find helpful?
 
Excellent! A couple of things, please: 1) Can you post some photos of your adventure? 2) What pry bar did you find helpful?
I apologize but I’m terrible about taking pictures. I jumped back on it last night and was so focused on getting it back together that I didn’t think about snapping some shots. It all went well though and my description above is pretty accurate. Just take the outside bucket off first and you’ll be good. This is the pry bar I used. There are designated pry spots on each side so set the 90 degree edge and lift up or down and it comes free. Sorry again about no pictures.

2AAF5D1F-0580-4863-8389-EC73BF28ACF2.png
 
So clarifying, you were able to remove the impeller and shaft once you got the outer most piece off that exposed the cone? You don’t have to remove the entire unit all the way to the transom to get to the impeller? (Crossing fingers I was totally wrong on how to remove the impeller)

Or do you have to take off the outer part first exposing the cone and then you have to remove the transom bolts too as the entire assembly is actually one piece?
 
You have to take the outer part of first that exposes the cone then pull the inner part with 4 bolts and one smaller bolt. If you don’t take the outer off first you can’t clear the ride plate enough to pull the impeller and shaft. Still not a big deal but just need to do it in two pieces.
 
You have to take the outer part of first that exposes the cone then pull the inner part with 4 bolts and one smaller bolt. If you don’t take the outer off first you can’t clear the ride plate enough to pull the impeller and shaft. Still not a big deal but just need to do it in two pieces.

Okay thanks. That’s what I thought you said. For the pry bar, that was then all the way at the transom to break it loose?
 
Pry bar is helpful for any spot to separate rather than banging on anything.
 
Pry bar is helpful for any spot to separate rather than banging on anything.
Agreed. But am asking if you needed it when you tried to remove the piece against the transom. Are there pry points in there?
 
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