• Welcome to Jetboaters.net!

    We are delighted you have found your way to the best Jet Boaters Forum on the internet! Please consider Signing Up so that you can enjoy all the features and offers on the forum. We have members with boats from all the major manufacturers including Yamaha, Seadoo, Scarab and Chaparral. We don't email you SPAM, and the site is totally non-commercial. So what's to lose? IT IS FREE!

    Membership allows you to ask questions (no matter how mundane), meet up with other jet boaters, see full images (not just thumbnails), browse the member map and qualifies you for members only discounts offered by vendors who run specials for our members only! (It also gets rid of this banner!)

    free hit counter
  • Guest, we are pleased to announce that Hydrophase Ridesteady is offering an extra $100 off for JETBOATERS.NET members on any Ridesteady for Yamaha Speed Control system purchased through March 7th, 2025. Ridesteady is a speed control system (“cruise control”) that uses GPS satellites or engine RPM to keep your boat at the set speed you choose. On twin engine boats, it will also automatically synchronize your engines.

    Click Here for more information>Ride Steady group buy for JetBoaters.net members only

    You can dismiss this Notice by clicking the "X" in the upper right>>>>>

Sucked up a rock; impeller question

Theryan

Well-Known Member
Messages
170
Reaction score
55
Points
57
Location
Minneapolis, MN
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2012
Boat Model
SX
Boat Length
19
Well, yesterday was going great. Got the new lateral thruster installed, great day on the water, and then maybe ten minutes from the dock came across a hidden sandbar and sucked up a rock.

Engine wouldn't go above like 7 mph. Found a golf ball sized rock in the cleanout port.

I was reading other threads on here with the same issue and it sounds like it's recommended to look at the intake grate and front impeller, as well as the back one.

I can feel that the back impeller has some dings on it, but it doesn't feel completely shredded. I haven't ran it since taking the rock out (in water; I started it after getting it home and the engine sounds better now that it's out).

Is there any advice on where to go next? How do I look at the front impeller? What am I looking for? Do I need to take the impeller out?

And, if I need to replace the impellers, is it worth it to get the Solas ones that people talk about?

Any advice would be appreciated. Hoping I didn't just completely screw my boat up...

Thank you!

Oh, and it's a 2012 sx190.
 
Quick update. Was able to get a couple of photos quick from the cleanout port. Haven't had a chance to take the assembly out yet, though.

The impeller blade definitely has some chunks taken out of it and needs to be replaced at some point, but how does the rest of it look to you guys?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4864.jpeg
    IMG_4864.jpeg
    1.3 MB · Views: 56
  • IMG_4865.jpeg
    IMG_4865.jpeg
    2.2 MB · Views: 59
Looks like the wear ring is also damaged. I wouldn't use the boat until they get replaced to avoid damaging other components.
 
Well, that wasn't the news I wanted to hear. Ha. Which part is the wear ring that you're looking at? Is that the black gasket looking thing?

Does the housing look okay from that, and it seems like people can do these replacements pretty easily. Would you recommend doing that, or just bringing it somewhere?
 
Expect lower speed, but the boat will just slip and cavitate more. I humbly disagree on not using it as-is. Take it easy on take-off, and order your parts. I wouldn't waste a weekend because of this. I bet you lost 1-4mph top speed, but otherwise it won't be very noticeable.
 
Expect lower speed, but the boat will just slip and cavitate more. I humbly disagree on not using it as-is. Take it easy on take-off, and order your parts. I wouldn't waste a weekend because of this. I bet you lost 1-4mph top speed, but otherwise it won't be very noticeable.

I mean, to be fair, the prop already had a little wear and tear when I bought it last year, and I never have it wide-open since I never have it on smooth water for some reason. The top speed I'm not totally worried about. Moreso, want to make sure that I'm not going to fuck anything else up.

Are the impeller and wear ring easy enough to replace, actually?

Thanks for the help and insight to you both, by the way.
 
SBT will send you someone else's rebuilt impeller and you then send yours in, so they can send it to the next guy. The impeller is simple to replace, but you must be ready to use a LONG lever. It;s on tight, but it's not hard to do. If you know what you are doing (Which you will because we'll tell you) You can do it in 90 minutes tops if you take a few beer breaks.

(SBT is a place in Florida that sells rebuilt parts such as engines, heads and impellers.)
 
SBT will send you someone else's rebuilt impeller and you then send yours in, so they can send it to the next guy. The impeller is simple to replace, but you must be ready to use a LONG lever. It;s on tight, but it's not hard to do. If you know what you are doing (Which you will because we'll tell you) You can do it in 90 minutes tops if you take a few beer breaks.

God damn, I seriously love this community. You guys are so helpful. This might be one of the best online communities I've seen in terms of helpfulness and stuff.

What about the wear housing piece?
 
Once you take the pump off, once you have the impeller and cheap spline holder/special tool.... this is how you unscrew the impeller from the boat.
 
Okay, so quick follow up. I just looked at the SBT exchange program. Are these props actually good quality (being that they're refurbished)? Or would I be better off buying a new aftermarket one or something?
 
I have bought from SBT before and it looked just fine. New OEM is likely best. I'm running some after market ones I bought used and so far so good, but some aftermarket impellers have failed. If you want to get back on the water and don't mind the "rebuilt" aspect, SBT is a good value. If you prefer OEM, no harm in that. It likely is better quality and will have "factory" tolerances.
 
I guess if I'm replacing it and they aren't astronomical I might as well replace it with factory OEM. Probably the "safest" option, right?
 
I think this is your boat. If not, please review to change the selection..

It seems your boat has 2 sections on the wear ring area. My boat is older and I don't think it has this same pump set up. Can you see in your pump these 2 pieces? Can you see if the rear one might be in good shape and potentially only one needs replacement?

Best of Luck!
 
Here are some additional photos.

First two are facing the bow.

Rest are obviously the impeller and housing. Trying to get a better look until I can take the whole thing off.

I wish I would've taken pictures of the prop previously since I know it wasn't perfect (obviously wasn't THIS bad before), but would love to have known just how much damage I actually just did.
 

Attachments

  • B3D4368F-71C9-4B23-A759-6216C0A13CD2.jpeg
    B3D4368F-71C9-4B23-A759-6216C0A13CD2.jpeg
    781.7 KB · Views: 44
  • 8E9B2AF8-DE26-4D8C-A9C7-1DEF5EA5E5F0.jpeg
    8E9B2AF8-DE26-4D8C-A9C7-1DEF5EA5E5F0.jpeg
    770.6 KB · Views: 38
  • 6F6799AE-23BE-4F0E-A9F5-377E1A520D89.jpeg
    6F6799AE-23BE-4F0E-A9F5-377E1A520D89.jpeg
    1.8 MB · Views: 35
  • E804F8DE-DCBE-4B32-9312-CCC82869A136.jpeg
    E804F8DE-DCBE-4B32-9312-CCC82869A136.jpeg
    1.2 MB · Views: 37
  • 9E6DFC67-C7C7-4182-9F9C-58D7FE67DA95.jpeg
    9E6DFC67-C7C7-4182-9F9C-58D7FE67DA95.jpeg
    1.8 MB · Views: 35
  • 0606D617-CE2A-44B0-BBDF-D72FECF5AFC4.jpeg
    0606D617-CE2A-44B0-BBDF-D72FECF5AFC4.jpeg
    1.9 MB · Views: 33
It's your leading edge, so like others have said, it'll decrease performance, but the gap appears runnable. You won't damage anything running it like that. I'd say order a new OEM, and send it until the replacement comes in.

How shallow were you when you sucked that baby in?

Also, has anyone taken an impeller to a prop shop for rebuilding? We have a couple around us that work miracles on stainless and aluminum.
 
It's your leading edge, so like others have said, it'll decrease performance, but the gap appears runnable. You won't damage anything running it like that. I'd say order a new OEM, and send it until the replacement comes in.

How shallow were you when you sucked that baby in?

Also, has anyone taken an impeller to a prop shop for rebuilding? We have a couple around us that work miracles on stainless and aluminum.

It's hard to say. It was on a lake I've been on countless times, but clearly not an area I've ever gone through. My depth said it was about 3 feet but I'm just not sure. It was a super shallow channel/bar that wasn't marked or anything just out in the middle of the damn lake (the lake averages 30-60+ feet deep just about everywhere).

I plan on hooking up the hose and turning the engine over and listening and feeling how it runs.

Do you agree that the housing needs to be replaced, too?

I think I'll order the OEM impeller, but would love additional opinions on the ring thing. And whether or not I have to replace the whole housing or if it's just an inner liner than needs to be replaced.
 
just depends on how much you want to test/trouble shoot it,

If it were my boat and I was close to the water,
I'd make sure it spun and sounded ok on the hose, then I would go to the lake for a test run and decide if how long I could live with it,

If I were to replace the impeller I think I would just buy an OEM and send my original for refurb and keep it as a spare,

if I still had issues after the impeller then I would look at the wear ring,

Being your boat is 8 years old it might not be a bad idea to pull the impeller/shaft just because and also get a look at the cone bearing to make sure it's still ok,


.
 
Also, has anyone taken an impeller to a prop shop for rebuilding? We have a couple around us that work miracles on stainless and aluminum.
We have a local guy here that does great work. Had him repair some props for me and no complaints and will not hesitate to take my impellers to him. Actually never heard anything bad about his work from anyone
 
just depends on how much you want to test/trouble shoot it,

If it were my boat and I was close to the water,
I'd make sure it spun and sounded ok on the hose, then I would go to the lake for a test run and decide if how long I could live with it,

If I were to replace the impeller I think I would just buy an OEM and send my original for refurb and keep it as a spare,

if I still had issues after the impeller then I would look at the wear ring,

Being your boat is 8 years old it might not be a bad idea to pull the impeller/shaft just because and also get a look at the cone bearing to make sure it's still ok,


.

This is helpful. Thank you. I guess I'm just not sure what "bad" looks like for the wear ring. I figured that the impeller would be okay save for some performance.

I don't live overly close to the water so it isn't super easy to swing out to test. If it sounds fine on the hose then maybe I'll live with it until I'm able to replace the impeller, and just get one ordered.

I need some special tool to remove the impeller, right?
 
Back
Top