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Budget Speaker/Amp

Bleed45

Member
Messages
26
Reaction score
5
Points
22
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2024
Boat Model
AR
Boat Length
19
Hey Guys I've been looking through the different discussions relating to speakers but I cannot seem to find an what I am looking for.

1. New boat owner and I have a 2024 190, sound is decent but at max volume my sound system shuts off and I have to restart the boat to get it back on. Anyone else experienced anything similar to this? I assume its pulling too much power and shutting off so it does not ruin any of the speakers or electronics?

2. What are your guys recommended budget sound systems? I really am only looking for a little more sound and not looking to replace every speaker and spend thousands. I was thinking of adding an amp to the existing speakers on the boat which are the 4 stock ones and buying a pair of tower speakers to give it that little boost while in motion and hanging out on the water.

The boat is kept outdoors but covered when not in use so its inevitable that a little rain or drizzle will get on it.

If anyone also has purchased products let me know how they fared over time!
Thanks guys!
 
The wetsounds wc-2 has a built in amplifier 4x50W @ 2 Ohm output that will help the polk speakers. WS-MC-2 | Wet Sounds™ SiriusXM-Ready® AM/FM/Weather Band Media Center I got mine on ebay for $250. Additionally, you can add the rear platform controller for ~$60 https://www.crutchfield.com/p_867MCTRMIN/Wet-Sounds-MC-TR-MINI.html which is what the sx195's have (different brand same idea), but not the ARs. Also, I bought it on ebay for $80 and it included the required 25' cable. If you want to upgrade the speakers the kicker 45km654 are pretty good for a budget, about $150 for a pair. So $630 total.

 
Many people here have had good luck with Creative Audio. Their website is pretty easy to navigate but you may be better off calling them and explaining what you want to do and giving them your budget - they're good dudes.

 
As to #1 (and I don't have near your boat), that does not sound normal to me. A stock system is usually not stellar, but should not be shutting down basically with anything you can do to it. It may sound like crap, but it should not be shutting off, etc.

I was in a similar position, but with an entirely different stock system. Here is what I did:
- First found an amp (my stock system didn't have one, so everything was underpowered). Landed a nice used Fusion one on eBay. Got a Fusion IB sub. The amp lasted me a while (later would upgrade to a new Fusion one). Made a huge difference.
- Second replaced what were stock cardboard-cone speakers with Polks in the tub. Made a huge difference.

Later I would upgrade the head unit, got some relatively cheap tower speakers for Christmas, etc. Basically from there got better and better bit by bit. When I finally put in the Fusion amp that did the electronic sync with the Fusion head unit, I hit full happiness. I am not a 'loudest at the sandbar' type--but I like my quality sound. Anyway, from my standpoint, find your weakest link, upgrade that, and work your way on up to the system you want.
 
For budget by used car audio amplifiers one sub woofer amp and used car audio sub . Buy an eq it will give you lots of control then cabin speakers. The money spent on these will be 1/4 the price of the items listed above and probably put out more decibels if you want to crank some tunes.
 
The wetsounds wc-2 has a built in amplifier 4x50W @ 2 Ohm output that will help the polk speakers. WS-MC-2 | Wet Sounds™ SiriusXM-Ready® AM/FM/Weather Band Media Center I got mine on ebay for $250. Additionally, you can add the rear platform controller for ~$60 https://www.crutchfield.com/p_867MCTRMIN/Wet-Sounds-MC-TR-MINI.html which is what the sx195's have (different brand same idea), but not the ARs. Also, I bought it on ebay for $80 and it included the required 25' cable. If you want to upgrade the speakers the kicker 45km654 are pretty good for a budget, about $150 for a pair. So $630 total.

I will check it out thanks for the links!
 
As to #1 (and I don't have near your boat), that does not sound normal to me. A stock system is usually not stellar, but should not be shutting down basically with anything you can do to it. It may sound like crap, but it should not be shutting off, etc.

I was in a similar position, but with an entirely different stock system. Here is what I did:
- First found an amp (my stock system didn't have one, so everything was underpowered). Landed a nice used Fusion one on eBay. Got a Fusion IB sub. The amp lasted me a while (later would upgrade to a new Fusion one). Made a huge difference.
- Second replaced what were stock cardboard-cone speakers with Polks in the tub. Made a huge difference.

Later I would upgrade the head unit, got some relatively cheap tower speakers for Christmas, etc. Basically from there got better and better bit by bit. When I finally put in the Fusion amp that did the electronic sync with the Fusion head unit, I hit full happiness. I am not a 'loudest at the sandbar' type--but I like my quality sound. Anyway, from my standpoint, find your weakest link, upgrade that, and work your way on up to the system you want.
Yeah it doesn't sound normal but I do not see an amplifier on the boat currently so that is why I was guessing it was just pulling too much power and shutting off. I was thinking of getting a car amp to save money and just putting it in a dry spot in one of the cubbies behind the helm and upgrading from there as I have seen that in a few other threads.
In your experience do you use a shop to install the sound on your boat or do it yourself? also do you run the wires down the actual tower or do you drill holes in the tower and run them through the tower so they are more hidden and more protected?
 
The recommendation on the car amp is not a bad one. Really depends on your use case. I had a car pre-amp for awhile--worked just fine. But I am pretty much a fair-weather boater on a lake. While I prefer marine electronics, having a non-critical, cheap couple is not a bad thing (especially when the alternative is that you have a system that shuts down...). You just know the risk you are taking and if it dies after 5 years and you take it out and find it all corroded, you figure that is why it was cheaper and replace it. Perfectly fair calculus. Were I out in salt or in all weathers, going on long trips, etc., I might calculate differently.

I so far I do the vast majority of things myself on my boat. I am pretty handy, and with some points of help from this place, I have faired quite well. Including audio. So learned here how to cut holes, consulted on parts, sound design--the lot. Yes, a bit unnerving but once you do the first project, you will get hooked. Myself, not only do I like knowing exactly how it was done (and that it was done to my specs), if I ever want to fix or upgrade something, I have a much better understanding of exactly how that part works. Plus, I like tinkering. Others take a different approach, which I respect as well.

For the tower speakers, I drilled holes in the tower (and tried grommets, but I think I had the wrong size--a couple have escaped). My tower is different than yours, but I drilled a hole in the hull and ran up to just above the joint in the tower, where I drilled a hole, fed it in, and ran it to the top. Another hole there coming out right near the speaker. Was not too bad a job. Then used wire loom split tubing on the exposed wire part between the hull and the tower. 4200 around the wires at the hull. Boom. Think it took me a couple hours. I'd recommend if you are planning to DIY, make a plan, post it here & let folks comment. Likely someone tried it that way before and can provide good insight.
 
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