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10 hour service complete and it feels good

I have an oil extractor that's two hoses with a small pump that I attach to my drill motor. Works great on transmission fluid changes. I'll probably use it for the 10 hour oil change. The zerk fitting looks fairly easy to reach as well. All else is just a matter of checking and a squirt of Yamalube. I think I'm just over 7 hours now.
 
I have found if the oil is warmed up good it comes out much faster, the last oil change I put the engine in no-wake mode to help warm it up faster, did the trick.

Yup I warmed mine up as well for about 5 or so minutes on my house water. I used a level on the floor of the boat and set my trailer so the boat was level. If I put the level on the trailer the boat actually is still at an angle and since the engine is what matters most, I adjust until the boat shows level and don't use the trailer rails as a guide. :winkingthumbsup"
 
I need to pick up some anti seize for the plugs.

This is a topic that's been debated before, and will be again. But I will leave my personal and professional experience and advice - there is no need for this. It WILL alter your torque, it WILL alter heat dissipation, and it is absolutely, positively, NOT needed or warranted these days. Google around and see if you can find a single (modern) spark plug or automotive manufacturer who recommends using it. Spoiler alert - you won't. And for good reason.
 
This is a topic that's been debated before, and will be again. But I will leave my personal and professional experience and advice - there is no need for this. It WILL alter your torque, it WILL alter heat dissipation, and it is absolutely, positively, NOT needed or warranted these days. Google around and see if you can find a single (modern) spark plug or automotive manufacturer who recommends using it. Spoiler alert - you won't. And for good reason.

I had a bitch of a time getting the original plugs out of my engines with only 70 hours on them, when I replaced the plugs I put a very light amount of anti-seize on them. I come from racing Ford SVT Lightning's, they had a problem of either launching plugs or seizing up and breaking off plugs requiring heli-coils to fix the issue. So I am 50/50 on the anti-seize.
 
I have been going by @veedubtek rules as I find the heat dissipation and torque alteration points convincing.

Removing and reinstalling plugs, periodically, generally prevents seizing.

If one boats in salt ALL THE TIME, rules may be different, I don't know.
 
I need to do the beer thing, unfortunately I have my 5:00 PM rule, don't drink before that, don't now why, guess I feel guilty having a drink any earlier.

Try some international travel. That will fix that attitude. :)
 
I'm kinda the same as @tdonoughue on this one. Mine is due to my schedule though. I work offshore so when I'm home I'm off all day everyday. And nothing goes better with lunch like a cold draft Yuengling!:winkingthumbsup"
 
A bit of an update to my low water pressure issue at the house. Turns out I'm a dumbass and when I replaced the water pressure regulator 5 or so years ago I didn't have a water pressure gauge at the time so I just set it and left it at default settings. Well I bought a water pressure gauge last night and my house was only getting 30 PSI lol. So I adjusted my regulator to 60 psi and all is good. I get good flow and now I have plenty of water coming out at the pump and also streaming out of the pissers!
 

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I did my 10hr service at 8hrs, went with 4w Yama oil/filter kits, 30 strokes of grease per pump. I checked the plugs, making sure those are not stuck. Do you guys change the plugs or just check them at 10 hrs?
I don't mind changing the plugs, but it just seems a bit silly at that point...

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Personally I just pulled mine and made sure nothing looked burnt or severely out of gap. I did replace them though at my 50hr maintenance.
 
No, just check at 10 hours, replace at 50. I'm at 38 ATM but when I return to my boat I'm sure that will increase rapidly, can't wait :D.
 
I didn't replace. Only checked them.
 
I replaced them each year.... until this year. I think I am only at just under 80 hrs and I figured as I was not having any issues that they could probably wait a bit.
 
Getting ready to perform my 10 hour as well....choosing to go DIY with routine maintenance where as I now see how I wasted money with this service when I was a ski owner. I feel pretty confident now after reading all the advice. Love the tip on leveling the boat.
The only question/conflict that comes up is changing the oil filters at the 10 hour. Manual suggests performing this at 50 along with plugs (I think).

I did pick them up but is it really necessary...should I just hang on to them till the 50?
 
Getting ready to perform my 10 hour as well....choosing to go DIY with routine maintenance where as I now see how I wasted money with this service when I was a ski owner. I feel pretty confident now after reading all the advice. Love the tip on leveling the boat.
The only question/conflict that comes up is changing the oil filters at the 10 hour. Manual suggests performing this at 50 along with plugs (I think).

I did pick them up but is it really necessary...should I just hang on to them till the 50?

@Craaaiiiggg are you asking if you should replace your oil filter when you replace your oil? If so then yes. You always want to replace your oil filter when replacing the oil. The filter catches the trash and you don't want the brand new oil running through that.

Another suggestion is to have some blue locktite and a screw driver you. You will want to ensure a snug connection on each and every screw. They come loose quite often.
 
Roger that...done & done....now if the forecast would cooperate....aww Florida in the summer time.
 
What @Bennie said. The ONLY contraindication would be making a mess, but that is (largely) preventable.
 
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I agree with @swatski. To avoid the mess I line the bottom of the engine compartment with puppy pads and wrap one also around the filter when its ready to be taken off. In addition I use a bowl that I hold just under the filter when I take it off to hold the spilled oil. Tip - remember to tilt the filter up as soon as possible to avoid a major mess.

Personally - when putting the filter on I put some oil on the rubber gasket and to help lube and seal it as well as prefill the filter at least half way. -just me-
 
In addition to adding a little oil on the oil filter gasket, I always add a little bit of oil in the filer so it's not bone dry on first startup after the oil change. Been doing that for years on my cars, bikes, etc.

I stole one of my wife's Tupperware containers under the filter and on top of the puppy pads. Don't know if my.wife has realized this or not yet :D:eek:
 
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