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10 hour service

Thanks for the input guys. I am leaning towards NOT changing the filter even though I have it, just so we can get out on the water quickly.

On a side note I just lubed the bearings with yamalube before launching. . . . .and noticed the cover screws had come up all by themselves. All cover screws were loose, but the two forward screws were almost unseated entirely.

Additionally, this boat has never seen nor been near salt water should I be seeing bolt head corrosion already?

Let this be a reminder to check your screws/fittings often on both the BOAT AND TRAILER. I have only 14 hours on it and screws are already coming loose. . . .20140824_114508.jpg 20140824_114515.jpg 20140824_114522.jpg
 
After 4 years mine look like new however, mine are black from the factory.
 
Check for all lose nuts bolts screws on 10 hr then on 100 hr service. I noticed my cover screws lose too....not corroded tho.

Per the intermediate bearing housing be sure you put proper amount of grease for the 10hr. My gun was 24 pumps each for the 1.18 grease needed. Only 4 pumps each for my 100hr next year.
 
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Thanks for the input guys. I am leaning towards NOT changing the filter even though I have it, just so we can get out on the water quickly.

On a side note I just lubed the bearings with yamalube before launching. . . . .and noticed the cover screws had come up all by themselves. All cover screws were loose, but the two forward screws were almost unseated entirely.

Additionally, this boat has never seen nor been near salt water should I be seeing bolt head corrosion already?

Let this be a reminder to check your screws/fittings often on both the BOAT AND TRAILER. I have only 14 hours on it and screws are already coming loose. . . .View attachment 10766 View attachment 10767 View attachment 10768
So you are seen other post or are aware of the extra Zirk fittings on trailer between the wheels? I hit all 6 of my trailer points at 10 hr also. I don't pull much but hit about 4 pumps in each just in case.
 
I have used these snap on adjustable pliers on all my boat and auto filters since 1991. Even on my old 2006 where the filter was down below I used these. I use these for almost everything. Need to be the long ones for the torque. Even when I put my filters on hand tight they are still difficult sometimes to remove....yes I have weak hands!

SNapon.jpg
 
As @txav8r said, there may be some casting grit or metal shavings in the pan that the original filters have trapped. I think it's good insurance to replace them at each oil change.
 
Check for all lose nuts bolts screws on 10 hr then on 100 hr service. I noticed my cover screws lose too....not corroded tho.

Per the intermediate bearing housing be sure you put proper amount of grease for the 10hr. My gun was 24 pumps each for the 1.18. Only 4 pumps each for my 100hr next year.

I actually read this thread ( https://jetboaters.net/threads/10-h...or-the-bearing-housing.2066/page-2#post-49994 )
and consulted the manual for the amounts . . . . . . I have a small gun so it took about 30 pumps to top her off. That is in bold, italic and underlined because I KNOW someone will comment on it)
 
I actually read this thread ( https://jetboaters.net/threads/10-h...or-the-bearing-housing.2066/page-2#post-49994 )
and consulted the manual for the amounts . . . . . . I have a small gun so it took about 30 pumps to top her off. That is in bold, italic and underlined because I KNOW someone will comment on it)
yup, each gun is different....I was so sweating it on how much for my 10 hr. And I don't trust the dealers. So I did some calculations.....paid off. This site has helped me be confident in my decisions as well as help others with my own experiences good or bad.

Love it!
 
As @txav8r said, there may be some casting grit or metal shavings in the pan that the original filters have trapped. I think it's good insurance to replace them at each oil change.

I could tell my oil was definitely worn at the 10hr. I checked the oil level when I bought, because people do make mistakes and it was clean and clear. I cant wait till K&N start making these filters. I used to get my 2006 filters for $10 each on ebay.
 
As @txav8r said, there may be some casting grit or metal shavings in the pan that the original filters have trapped. I think it's good insurance to replace them at each oil change.

Damn you. . . . . Changing filters now.
 
FWIW (I am late to this thread), you can toss my vote in with the 'cheap insurance' and 'manufacturing grit cleanout on a new engine' folks in favor of changing.

On the lube, my advice would just be to go slowly. Best way to blow one of those is to get in a hurry, thinking it will take at least X pumps, and fail to feel the resistance when the thing is full.

But the real reason for my post: @0627Devildog , my bolts holding that cover on look exactly the same (not unscrewed, but same surface corrosion). If it were a more critical part other than holding that stupid top on, I would be more worried. I just used some WD40 on mine, wiped them down and put them back in... (oh, and yes, fresh water only here, too).
 
My bolts look the same too. Looks to be a bad paint job on them.
 
I spray everything with white lithium grease yea even the stupid hose clamps, I only run in salt water. On the 10 hour service I remove all the sparkplugs to put never seize on them and reinstall them.
I also put dielectric grease on the coil boots before reinstalling the coils.
I run motorcraft fl910s oil filters, and I cover the outside with metal tape to prevent the filters from rusting at the crimp. I use disposable oil absorbent towels under the oil filter when removing them , those towels work great. Not sure what they are made of but it feels like some type of fiber.
 
I spray everything with white lithium grease yea even the stupid hose clamps, I only run in salt water. On the 10 hour service I remove all the sparkplugs to put never seize on them and reinstall them.
I also put dielectric grease on the coil boots before reinstalling the coils.
I run motorcraft fl910s oil filters, and I cover the outside with metal tape to prevent the filters from rusting at the crimp. I use disposable oil absorbent towels under the oil filter when removing them , those towels work great. Not sure what they are made of but it feels like some type of fiber.
Nice info @Cobra Jet Steering LLC ....question. So the motorcraft fl910s oil filters are compatible with the 2012-2014 1.8's?
 
I use those on my supercharged 1.8 , it now has 540 hrs, on my 13 cruiser with the 1.8 it had 240 hrs when someone totaled it on the interstate, and now my 14 1.8 cruiser has 100 hours in just 2 months still using that silicon filter on them and the hours are the proof in the pudding.
Actually the 3 oil filters that I have personal knowledge of that rusted through were Yamaha filters, of those 2 engines were destroyed and one was caught just as it started spraying out oil before it had a chance to get any damage. The rust was on the crimp due probably where it is the thinnest. Just for info. and why I cover all my marine oil filters with aluminum tape.
 
I use those on my supercharged 1.8 , it now has 540 hrs, on my 13 cruiser with the 1.8 it had 240 hrs when someone totaled it on the interstate, and now my 14 1.8 cruiser has 100 hours in just 2 months still using that silicon filter on them and the hours are the proof in the pudding.
Actually the 3 oil filters that I have personal knowledge of that rusted through were Yamaha filters, of those 2 engines were destroyed and one was caught just as it started spraying out oil before it had a chance to get any damage. The rust was on the crimp due probably where it is the thinnest. Just for info. and why I cover all my marine oil filters with aluminum tape.
I used the K&N on my 2006. I was hoping K&N reinvent for the 1.8's. Any input on the K&N? Same as the Yamaha just name change? Im not in Salt water so I haven't had any corrosion issues but always nice to stay on top for my friends, knowledge etc
 
I will be doing the 10 hour service for my boat this weekend. For the bearing grease, I just pump slow until I feel some resistance in the pump handle, then call it good to go?
 
I will be doing the 10 hour service for my boat this weekend. For the bearing grease, I just pump slow until I feel some resistance in the pump handle, then call it good to go?
Some say that...I was more calculated with my new boat. My old boat had problems from guessing.

See how much your gun squeezes out per time.....if your book says 1.88 grease figure it up. Mine was as stated above.

"Per the intermediate bearing housing be sure you put proper amount of grease for the 10hr. My gun was 24 pumps each for the 1.18 grease needed. Only 4 pumps each for my 100hr next year."
 
I will be doing the 10 hour service for my boat this weekend. For the bearing grease, I just pump slow until I feel some resistance in the pump handle, then call it good to go?

That is how I have done it every time. No problems so far (knock on fiberglass). And you really can feel it if you go slowly.
 
The manual is referring to 1.18 fluid ounces capacity and not weight in ounces correct? Should be fl oz since we're talking volume but want to confirm.
 
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