190 stock stereo questions

[Ibeflyinhigh]

Ar190/195 how long can you run the stock stereo with key off before it runs you battery down to the point it might not start up?

On a side note would it be better to replace stock speakers or leave and add tower speakers? Budget is limited. Thanks

 

[jocolo21]

how long will depend on the quality/health of your bateries, i believe the 190 only have 1?, you should add another and a Perco switch, run audio from the second battery and you will always have a start battery to make it home. Also depends in how much audio equipment you plan on running. I get my stuff from creativeaudio.net, i dont do their bunddles i create my own but worth take a look. their refurfish equipment will save you a ton and its all factory with a year warranty.

 

[Crob83]

I have 2 kicker 6.5 inch towers that I got for $280 off if creative audio, paired with a 400w marine MTX amp. (Got the amp for free) but a similar one won't run you over $200. I also have 2 batteries and a perko switch. I can listen to the radio for 3-4 hrs and the boat still fires up off the same battery every time. I have did that 2 consecutive days before also on the same battery and never had a problem. I have never even had to utilize the second battery unless I just wanted to switch to it just because. I try to switch back and forth every other outing just to mantain the battery life. (1 is a deep cycle, 1 is a crank)

 

[Tobes]

I’d suggest battery upgrade as others stated. IMO, it should be your first mod if you have a 1 battery boat.

I had a battery go out on the water and the backup (deep cycle for the stereo) saved me. Plus you don’t have to worry about killing the Battery by running the stereo.

that said when I did have only 1 battery that day on the water, it ran my stereo for about 5-6 hours no issue and I have a few amps (of course I wasn’t pushing them hard but much more than a stock stereo would use)

Theoretically if you ran your stock system full blast for 8 hours, your battery should still have enough charge to get you cranked. Most people won’t run their stereo more than 50% for an extended amount of time though.

 

[gallobg]

Question for those who have added a second battery using a simple two-battery switch (i.e., the "Perko switch"): Can you utilize two completely different batteries, since they are always isolated from each other by the switch?

In my case, I have the stock lead acid deep cycle battery and was going to replace it with an AGM battery this year. I understand that if you intend to use an ACR to charge both batteries, then they need to be the same.

However, if I simply use a Perko switch, does it matter that one is lead acid and one is AGM? Doing it this way would certainly save me some cash and install headache.

 

[Tobes]

I had the stock lead acid and an AGM. Had a Noco 2 bank 8amp charger w/ a switch. Charger charges the batteries with the switch off (need the ACR). It charges them individually as well.

You'll want a 2 bank charger to have them separate. I have the OFF, BOTH ON, COMBINE switch. I run the batteries individually but can combine them if there is an issue (say my starting battery dies, I switch to COMBINE and get juice from the house battery).

 

[dbfl]

I replaced all four stock speakers with Kicker 6.5"-ers. They're definitely an improvement, and now I'm considering an amp.
Compared to the stock "ASA" speakers, the kickers seem to accentuate the treble, and to a lesser extent, bass.

 

[traderfjp]

I would like to add a 2nd battery to my 195s. Will the alternator charge both batteries with the Perko switch. How is this wired?

 

[Crob83]

I would like to add a 2nd battery to my 195s. Will the alternator charge both batteries with the Perko switch. How is this wired?

There is no alternator, there is a stator. I wouldn't depend on it to be the source of charging your batteries, need an onboard charger like a noco or similar. The batteries only charge over 7K Rpms I believe, other know more than I do for sure.

 

[212s]

There is no alternator, there is a stator. I wouldn't depend on it to be the source of charging your batteries, need an onboard charger like a noco or similar. The batteries only charge over 7K Rpms I believe, other know more than I do for sure.

An alternator has a stator in it to generate AC, and a built-in rectifier converts it to DC output. The stators in our boats put out AC and the water cooled rectifier converts it to DC - it's the same process just separated so the small motors are not turning a heavy alternator. The stator/rectifier combo puts out max amps around 28 above 3500rpm, and about half that at 2000rpm. That's plenty to recharge a battery, just not as fast as a car alternator which is designed to output a lot more current at a lower rpm using pulleys and torque at those lower rpms. Our boat motors turn the stator directly from the crankshaft which I believe is easier on the driveline and more of the power can be put into the impeller shaft for max efficiency.

 

[212s]

I would like to add a 2nd battery to my 195s. Will the alternator charge both batteries with the Perko switch. How is this wired?

Not familiar with the wiring, but yes a dual battery switch can be used to charge both batteries when combined. I think there's a thread here somewhere talking about adding a second battery and switches.

Boats that come with dual batteries have a DVSR or relay that connects both batteries together when the engines are running to charge both batteries, and a pair of switches to turn each battery on/off.

 

[tdonoughue]

Two basic options for you: manual and automatic.

With a manual A+B Perko-type switch, everything in the boat is wired to the switch. Then the switch allows you to run from battery A, battery B or A+B (combined). So to use that you put it on A to start your boat, then switch it to A+B (which charges both batteries). When you stop and want to float awhile, you put it on B. That keeps one battery (A) basically always charged and able to start your boat, even if you run down B while floating.

There are two main automatic types: DVSR and ACR. They work differently in the electronics, but basically do the same thing. You wire all your house (e.g. float) stuff to one side of the switch and starter to the other side. The automatic boxes detect if there is charge incoming (from the magnito when the engine is running), and if there is incoming charge it combines the two sides (so both batteries charge). With these systems, you turn 'on' the boat at the beginning of the day and turn 'off' your boat at the end. The rest is managed by the box.

I used to have the former and converted to the latter with the Blue Sea "Add-a-Battery" Kit. I highly recommend it... I think I got the $120, 120A version, but I could have used the cheaper one (I learned later). Much easier...

 

[2kwik4u]

@Ibeflyinhigh

I was able to run my '17 AR190 with a completely stock stereo for as long as 8hrs and was able to restart the engine. The stock head unit doesn't pull much power, even and medium to high volume levels. I think it's like 12W a channel at full rip or something small like that. Just not much power to pull there in comparison to battery capacity.

I upgraded my speakers to Polk DB651s's, but kept the stock head unit. Many of the 24ft guys upgrade the Polks that come standard in the higher end boats, and sell these for next to nothing. I got mine for the cost of shipping from another forum member. They REALLY REALLY improve the sound from the stock head unit, and are a super easy upgrade. This change had no affect on battery life that I could tell.

I also added a Wetsounds Stealth 10 Ultra soundbar to the tower. It has an internal 200W amplifier, and connections are a simple 12v+, Ground, and Signal. It throws a LOT of sound out of the back of the boat when at anchor. Enough so, the wife is constantly telling me she can't chat with others while we're out there in the water. Tons and Tons of volume, but NO BASS. I mean none, zilch, zero, nada. Paid $550 for it, refurbished, from creativeaudio.net. Has served us extremely well for the last 3 seasons.

With stock head unit, upgraded speakers, and soundbar, I've run as long as 6hrs on the stock single battery and still restarted the engine without a problem. I carry a small jump pack with me, and have only ever had to use it on someone elses boat (and my truck). It's cheaper and easier than adding a second battery keeping in mind we're only turning over a 1.8L 4cyl, not a typical V8 car/marine engine here. IMO, two batteries (for the purpose of a stock stereo) is overkill and not needed. There are 101 other benefits to having a second battery, and if you need/want those benefits, no harm or foul. With the stock, or lightly modified) stereo, I've not had any reason to believe I need that second battery.

Overall, if you're on a budget, these two upgrades get you a TON of sound output from the mostly stock system, and you're under $600 total invested. Aside from possibly adding a single channel amp and a 10in sub this spring, I doubt we upgrade the stereo any further in this boat. The sub is really my idea, my wife thinks it's just fine the way it is. Also, I should note, we're NOT audiophiles. We like some music to be heard, and not have wonky rattles and such. We don't need tons and tons of power to wake the dead, just enough we can here it while underway, and while at anchor and swimming. If you want to be DJ for party cove, this setup isn't for you. If you want to have decent sound, that you can hear everywhere for not much money, I think this is about the best bang for your buck you can get.

 

[Miitch]

I would recommend replacing the stock cabin speakers and add a good amp as opposed to only tower speakers. the 6.5" Kickers paired with a decent amp are a WORLD of difference over stock. I did that this past summer. Even when were in the water throwing a ball around, its plenty loud and clear.

as for the battery, a second is a must IMO. pick up a second battery, and a proper 4-way switch (OFF, BATT 1, BATT 2, BOTH). I had this set up for a good two months and never had any juice issues. The boat will charge the batteries to recover from a days use, but might struggle to charge them from dead.

I wired both the sound system and starters to both batteries just in case something happens. I always start the boat and cruise on BATT 1, then switch to BATT 2, when anchored and engine off. Then on the way home, ill switch to BOTH and let them charge on the ride back. We did this for every weekend for almost two months straight - and some week days - with music and lights loud and clear on the way to destination, then continuing for another 4-5 hours while anchored. Zero issues. Also, if i am correct, i do not have a deep cycle. But that being said, i have a much smaller boat with a modest sound system.

Whole set up cost me about $400 US btw. But that includes EVERYTHING. wires, battery terminal clamps, switch, light controller, etc. i like to keep track LOL

 

[Ibeflyinhigh]

I found these slightly used with LEDs which I'm sure requires extra wiring. 6 of them I'd love to put 2 on the transom but dont like the idea of cutting holes in a new boat. Guy is asking $180. What do u think??

 

[Skin6061]

Cutting the hole is not that bad, I did it. For 180 that's a good deal.

 

[scobrn]

I'm wondering if anyone has used the Lithium Polymer jump start battery packs that start at around $40 and are very light (compared to a lead acid and Perko switch). I would think this would be a good backup in the event your battery ran out of juice.

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[tdonoughue]

Yep. Carry one with me on every outing. Never used it on my boat, but have handed it over to disabled boats (rather than trying to hand jumper cables over the water...).

 

[212s]

I'm wondering if anyone has used the Lithium Polymer jump start battery packs that start at around $40 and are very light (compared to a lead acid and Perko switch). I would think this would be a good backup in the event your battery ran out of juice.

Yup we have a NOCO booster pack 1000a that can start a V8 vehicle, overkill for what we needed but it was on sale for the same price as the smaller 500a booster. Never needed for the boat either, but used it a few times for others cars. It goes on the boat for the summer just in case, and in the truck for the winter, just in case. The NOCO ones are great because you can't hook up them up wrong, they have reverse polarity protection and can't short. They go for about the same price as the one you quoted on sale.

 

[fatboyroy]

This is what I carry on all my vehicles, so small (bit bigger than my iPhone but thicker) it even fits in my motorcycle swing arm bag, enough juice for my diesel pickup, have wireless charging for iphones, USB port and flashlight. I cant really vouch for it cause I never needed to use it lol.

Audew 1500A Peak 18000mAh Car Jump Starter for Up To 8.5L Gas or 6.5L Diesel Engines with 15W Wireless Quick Charging

Your friend shared a website for you! Check it now.

www.audew.com