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2012 AR210 port motor overheating alarm

Along with these helpful suggestions, running on the hose in No-Wake mode for a few minutes is my preferred way to flush.

However, in my experience, almost all my problems with overheating trace back to residual water left in the cooling system after flushing. This wet environment is favorable for microbial growth that can build quickly in the cooling system. Once it builds up in the cylinder water jackets it is not going to be flushed out. Now, I try to dry out the engines by running them without hose water for a minute or so every few days until I think they are dry. It does not hurt to run engines for a minute or so without water.

That may not be your problem, but that is why I suggested that you take temperature readings when you are running on the hose. That might help locate hot spots below the exhaust manifolds. If you are getting near 200 + degrees that indicate s a blockage.
 
Along with these helpful suggestions, running on the hose in No-Wake mode for a few minutes is my preferred way to flush.

However, in my experience, almost all my problems with overheating trace back to residual water left in the cooling system after flushing. This wet environment is favorable for microbial growth that can build quickly in the cooling system. Once it builds up in the cylinder water jackets it is not going to be flushed out. Now, I try to dry out the engines by running them without hose water for a minute or so every few days until I think they are dry. It does not hurt to run engines for a minute or so without water.

That may not be your problem, but that is why I suggested that you take temperature readings when you are running on the hose. That might help locate hot spots below the exhaust manifolds. If you are getting near 200 + degrees that indicate s a blockage.

wreks,

that is good information. Never thought about flushing in wake mode. I’m new to jet boats so this will come in handy. Thanks!
 
YDS should give a recent overheat record. I do not think it retains all of them, probably the most recent. I always disconnect the battery so they may get erased.
 
Here is a picture inside the thermostat housing. I replaced the thermostat which didn’t look really bad but did have some build up. I’m going to flush the motors a few times with salt away to see if this helps.
 

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@Tuanhenryvu That is biofoulfing. The same stuff builds up below and above the head gasket which has tiny holes in it through which this stuff cannot be flushed through. That is why I suggested getting an infrared thermometer and taking readings below the exhaust manifolds when you are running on the hose in No-Wake mode. The temperatures in that area are usually the hottest and if they start getting over 200 + degrees, the engine thermoswitch reduces the rpms to protect from overheating.

The only way that I have found to keep this from happening is drying out the cooling system by dry running the engines for 1-2 minute intervals from time to time in between outings.

Once it builds up in the cooling system, I am not aware of any way or chemical that can be used to remove it other than removing the engine and the cylinder head and scraping it out. That is not easy.

You asked how I know? I have removed each engine three times chasing this problem. The last time it happened, the boat had been in brackish water for only two hours, but I had done a lot of hose flushing after that thinking that running the engines in between the infrequent outings was better than just letting it sit. The flushing water was the problem. These open loop cooling systems have to be dried out.
 
For your flush, you might want to consider using a hose clamp to close off the fresh water intake line, this will allow all of the hose pressure/salt away to enter the engine’s cooling system, instead of exiting at the pump intake (strainer).

Where was that located in the engine, as you mentioned 3 different “thermostats” in a prior post. Up by the oil reservoir?
 
@VitaminSea @Tuanhenryvu I respectfully disagree. I would not pressurize the cooling system by clamping off the cooling water inlet. If there are any issues with cylinder head and head gasket from overheating, clamping off the inlet could force water into the cylinders.
 
So I flushed the motor with salt away twice. I see the thermostat has opened up which is good and water coming out is hot. Not sure that’s good.
I ran it for 6 minutes with water and no alarms.

If anyone wants to call me to discuss it would be appreciated. My number is (757) 788-6428

thanks
Tuan Henry
 
I think you're ready for a water trial, it's stinks your new to you boat is causing you problems but being able to do the minimal amount of troubleshooting and the yamaha's are pretty easy to figure out,

We have heard of a lot of temp sensors be a problem in the newer engines but I wouldn't be surprised if you thermo stat just stuck,

be sure to watch buckbuck video in our FAQ section on "how the cooling water flows" it's for an older engine but the principles are the same,


.
 
@Tuanhenryvu This is why I run the engines without hose water for about 1 1/2 minutes from time to time between outings. Biofouling
 
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I think you're ready for a water trial, it's stinks your new to you boat is causing you problems but being able to do the minimal amount of troubleshooting and the yamaha's are pretty easy to figure out,

We have heard of a lot of temp sensors be a problem in the newer engines but I wouldn't be surprised if you thermo stat just stuck,

be sure to watch buckbuck video in our FAQ section on "how the cooling water flows" it's for an older engine but the principles are the same,


.
Thanks Scott. I did watch the video and its pretty good. great tool for troubleshooting.
 
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