2015 oil change differences?

[smthng]

Apologies if this is elsewhere, but I searched and can't find it...

My friend has a 2015 SX240 and is trying to do his 10 hour oil change. What he's describing to me is totally different than my 2008 and I have no idea what to tell him. It sounds like his oil fill is directly into the valve cover (like a car), which is totally different than the little bolted on reservoir thing that's on mine. So, if his is filled like a regular car engine, does it drain like a car engine? He has an oil vacuum thing, but there's no way fishing around in the fill area is going to get much out.

What am I missing here? If this isn't already written up somewhere, I'll be happy to write it up the next time he does it.

 

[MikeyL]

1) You warm up your engines. 5 minutes minimum.
2) You do 1 engine at a time. You use a vacuum evacuator, going down thru the dip stick tube.
You take your time, and pump, and evacuate. You continue doing this for a MINIMUM of 20 minutes.
3) You remove your oil filter turning it upright to "save" the oil inside of it, as much as possible.
4) You then MEASURE how much you took out of engine #1. Include the oil from the filter.
If you did it RIGHT< you will have evacuated anywhere from 3.95 quarts of oil, up to 4 quarts & 2 to 3 ounces. Possibly a dribble more.
5) Put oil around the new oil filter rubber oil ring and install the new filter.
6) Replace dipstick in engine #1.
7) Go back and make sure the new oil filter is tight.
8) Add new oil to engine #1 EQUAL to what you just measured coming out. Do NOT overfill !!!!!!!!
9) Proceed to engine # 2 and do NOT expect the evacuated results to any any way equal what came from engine #1.

I just did mine yesterday and was surprised at the variance between the 2 engines, but I expected that from past results.

TAKE YOUR TIME evacuating. Getting out the maximum amount of oil is a result of taking your time and continuing to repeat suck, evacuate, suck, evacuate, etc.

Good Luck, Mikey Lulejian - Lake Oconee, GA

PS - If you take out anything less than 3 & 3/4 qts, and it is because you rushed the evacuation job. Period. You must continue the evacuation of pump, suck, pump, suck, etc.

 

[smthng]

Thanks @MikeyL ... Friend says dipstick tube is tiny and he doesn't have a vacuum tube small enough. But, he says there's another tube that's about a half inch in diameter with a cap on it that goes into the block near the dipstick. Do you have that on yours? Safe to assume that's for "normal sized" vacuum tubes to do the same job? Trying to get a picture of it, will post when I get one.

 

[Boat Crazy]

Not sure what tube he is talking about, however when changing oil, once you get the oil out, you check/add oil just like a car. To fill on water, just add oil, no premeasuring is required. Add a qt and check oil, repeat. The markings between the low mark and full mark is approximately 1 qt. Adjust and fill to the top line, then start engine to fill oil filter. Recheck oil level. If on land,place a level across top of engine and adjust trailer jack to level engine. Continue as above.

 

[MikeyL]

1) Your friend has a 2015 Yamaha. What I described is the PROPER procedure.

2) Measuring the oil removed is the proper method to insure you do not overfill, as well as insuring you really did get out the proper amount.
If you over fill, you run the risk of "blow-by" and ruining a good set of AIR filters, which cost approx. $125 EACH, plus sales tax, plus the gas to get them.

3) If you do not have an evacuator with the correct diameter tube to go down the dip stick tube, my suggestion is go buy a good evacuator.
Virtually every oil evacuator manufactured today provides a tube that goes down every dipstick tube in use today.
It is how most all engines which use evacuators are emptied.
Look at it this way: If you are not going down the dip stick tube, into the engine, how do you know you are going into the motor at the lowest point possible to evacuate as much oil as possible ?

I sincerely hope this helps. Some chose not to be as anal or careful during this process. This is a method I and many Yamaha mechanics use.
Again, good luck, Mikey Lulejan - Lake Oconee, GA

 

[smthng]

Apologies for requesting clarification, I'll tell him I've given him all the information there is to be had and if it doesn't match exactly, he's clearly an idiot and he shouldn't have asked in the first place.

 

[rkgdmd]

Apologies for requesting clarification, I'll tell him I've given him all the information there is to be had and if it doesn't match exactly, he's clearly an idiot and he shouldn't have asked in the first place.

Lol. I think you may be being a little hard on him @smthng. He's got to get an extractor with the proper size tube and he should be all good. If you don't have experience with boats, it's a little strange to suck oil out of the dipstick. On a side note, I've never been able to get 4 quarts out.

 

[smthng]

Lol. I think you may be being a little hard on him...

Yeah, maybe a little. :S My friend was describing stuff to me, I was translating that to ask you guys, and @MikeyL 's reply seemed condescending to me. I probably read too much into it and am sorry for being a jerk about it.

I have a picture that I'm trying to convince my phone to let go of. Once I have that, I'll post what I can of the "other" tube. Unfortunately, he didn't get the whole thing, so I still don't know what it is.

 

[MikeyL]

Lol. I think you may be being a little hard on him @smthng. He's got to get an extractor with the proper size tube and he should be all good. If you don't have experience with boats, it's a little strange to suck oil out of the dipstick. On a side note, I've never been able to get 4 quarts out.

I admit FIRST< that this is not easy (i.e., extracting about 4 qts per engine).
But it IS easy to do, once you get the hang of it.

Here are some tricks.
1) Warm the oil for a MINIMUM of 5 minutes.
2) Have the boat LEVEL. Easier for me, as ours is on a lift and all I do is lower it until it is "just' in the water.
3) Pump - EXTRACT - Release pressure - Pump - Extract - Release pressure - Pull tube out and re-insert - Push to insure it's ALL the way down - Pump - Extract - Release pressure - Pump - Extract - Pull tube out and re-insert - Push to insure it's ALL the way down - Pump - Extract - Release pressure - Pump -Extract - Etc.
Sounds redicules. I know. But it DOES WORK.
4) Allow 20 MINUTES per motor for extraction.

I have done this three times, this exact same way, on 1.8L motors, and every time have extracted "virtually" 4 qts per motor.

Hoping this helps you, And Best Wishes, Mikey Lulejian - Lake Oconee, GA

 

[Bennie]

@smthng - I hope this pic helps. The crayon effect is solely due to my advanced computer skills. I would have used "Paint", but I already ate all the paint chips. lol

The engines are identical so the items are in the same place for both engines. The extractor goes down the dipstick tube, the oil filter is on the right side, the oil goes into the filler on top. The important parts are still: warm the engines, make sure they are level, and ONLY give back to the engine what it gave you.

Job done - go drink (more) beer!!

 

[smthng]

@smthng - I hope this pic helps. The crayon effect is solely due to my advanced computer skills. I would have used "Paint", but I already ate all the paint chips. lol

Er... I don't see a picture. :S

I'm headed over to friend's house tonight with my extractor to find out what craziness he speaks of. I suspect the "other" tube he's talking about is probably an oil pump line or something else less than useful. I know my extractor will work with the dipstick tube, so we'll get it done regardless. Thanks all!

 

[Bennie]

thats because Im EXTRA special when it comes to computers - here it is.

 

[MikeyL]

@Bennie ........... Your artistic skills are totally AMAZING !!!!!!!!

LOL ! Take care and maybe 1 day we'll see you on the front cover of the Saturday Evening Post @!

 

[MikeyL]

The MityVac QUALITY Oil Evacuator is on sale @ Amazon !
If you do not own one, maybe this is a good time to stock up ~!!
Best Wishes, Mikey Lulejian - Cutting grass in 100 degrees on Lake Oconee, GA

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JFJM14...3457689424D6&ref_=pfb_NUL_1_2_1433457689424D6

 

[CGF1]

My dealer urged me to use a certified dealer for first oil change so as not to have any engine warranty issues, is that crazy talk? It definitely ain't cheap through a dealer (not the dealer I purchased from). If your friend's not going through a dealer with the first one, how will he (or I, if I don't go through the dealer) prove the oil was changed at the appropriate time?

 

[billyb]

Most people have the dealer do the first change because the dealer does other stuff at the time of your ten hour service. So yeah, have the dealer do the ten hour service (which includes an oil change).

 

[Bennie]

Personally I just went back to the dealer and bought all the oil/filters/etc and asked them to place a note I their system of how many hours I had on my boat at that time.

 

[rkgdmd]

I did the same thing as @Bennie. Purchased two oil change kits from the dealer and did the work myself. Seems like the dealer is trying to strong-arm you into doing the work. My 2013 Limited spun a bearing at 44 hours. I had done all the maintenance myself there and Yamaha rebuilt the engine under warranty no questions asked.

 

[Boat Crazy]

My dealer urged me to use a certified dealer for first oil change so as not to have any engine warranty issues, is that crazy talk? It definitely ain't cheap through a dealer (not the dealer I purchased from). If your friend's not going through a dealer with the first one, how will he (or I, if I don't go through the dealer) prove the oil was changed at the appropriate time?

All you need is receipts of oil and filter for proof of purchase. That said my, and I assume all dealerships have on their computer everything that I ever purchased from them. I lost receipts once and went to the dealership for one. They printed out 3 years of receipts for me.

 

[smthng]

What @Boat Crazy said (my friend bought the first kit from the dealer), but...

I actually had to fight Chrysler about that once with my Wrangler. I eventually won, but had to go above the regional level to do so and that was ONLY because I had a friend at another dealership that was able to get the receipts from corporate. The local dealer with the issue "had no record" of my 30,000 mile axle maintenance after the differential exploded. In short, get a copy of the receipts and just stuff them in a filing cabinet or smthng. There's no telling when you'll need one and the dealer "loses" it.