2017 212X stereo settings

[Dave burke]

Or you could install a Wet sounds 420sq. That’s what I’m doing. Lots of good posts on it. Bit pricey though.

 

[FloJet]

Yes I agree. You can go both route without any problems. I too do use the WS420. It allows me to control my towers, interior, and subs independently from each other. The great thing about the WS most don't understand is, its a great line driver for your amps. If you tune it right, it can push great volts to your amp so the amps don't have to work hard. Just volt match it from the head unit to the WS to the amps.

 

[Dave burke]

Interesting. How do you volt match?

 

[FloJet]

Multimeter or using tuner like SMD tuner. I use the SMD tuner. I am able to tune connext to 100% with no distortion which makes it alot easier on the amps as they are barely turned up.

 

[geohil]

212X - Used a 1/2 spacer and 3M 5200 with a coating of gel coat but the JL 650’s fit.
(Everything is still wet in the pics)

 

[FloJet]

Nicely done

 

[Dave burke]

Very nice. Does it make a big difference?

 

[geohil]

Very nice. Does it make a big difference?

Yes it helps a ton. Added a 2 channel Polk amp to power just the rear two JL’s and it adds depth to the sound behind the boat. I need to do another coat of gel coat but I’m very happy with the results.

 

[Dave burke]

Maybe others have already seen this but I just discovered something weird about how my system is set up. Coming out of the head unit are RCA line-outs for the front channels and the rear channels. There are no RCA line-outs for the subwoofer (unlike some other HUs).

I had assumed that the RCAs for front channels were connected to the front channel on the amp (Polk 5000.5) and the rears to the rear. And that nothing was connected to the sub inputs on the amp. There’s a switch on the amp that allows you to choose between dedicated sub inputs or what they call “INT” if you don’t have RCA outputs for the sub from the HU.

When I recently looked the amp settings, I noticed that there were RCA cables plugged into the sub inputs on the amp. I’m thinking to myself “how can that be” so I followed the cables back to the HU and discovered that they were from the rear channel line-outs. Then I tried to see how there could also be RCA cables plugged into the rear channel inputs on the amp and found out the Yamaha had taken the front channel outputs from the HU, attached Y-cables (see attached picture) to the end close to the amp and then connected them to both the front and rear inputs on the amp.

Does this make any sense? To me the answer is no but maybe there is logic in doing it this way that I don’t see.

Many thanks.

 

[geohil]

Maybe others have already seen this but I just discovered something weird about how my system is set up. Coming out of the head unit are RCA line-outs for the front channels and the rear channels. There are no RCA line-outs for the subwoofer (unlike some other HUs).

I had assumed that the RCAs for front channels were connected to the front channel on the amp (Polk 5000.5) and the rears to the rear. And that nothing was connected to the sub inputs on the amp. There’s a switch on the amp that allows you to choose between dedicated sub inputs or what they call “INT” if you don’t have RCA outputs for the sub from the HU.

When I recently looked the amp settings, I noticed that there were RCA cables plugged into the sub inputs on the amp. I’m thinking to myself “how can that be” so I followed the cables back to the HU and discovered that they were from the rear channel line-outs. Then I tried to see how there could also be RCA cables plugged into the rear channel inputs on the amp and found out the Yamaha had taken the front channel outputs from the HU, attached Y-cables (see attached picture) to the end close to the amp and then connected them to both the front and rear inputs on the amp.

Does this make any sense? To me the answer is no but maybe there is logic in doing it this way that I don’t see.

Many thanks.View attachment 104099

Slightly different set up stock here. The rear channel was split for sub and rears. Crossover in the Polk 5000.5 works pretty well. You will find a dedicated eq like wet sounds helps a ton and rewiring the speakers to get them out of series helps even more. Check out the posts about adding another sub in parallel. Those three thing alone make it a new system. Adding an amp to deal with the sound bar also is a game-changer. Lots more sound for very little money.

 

[Dave burke]

All on my list of things to do. I even bought all the parts, just have to install them.

Did you reconnect the RCA cables without the Y splitter? Also, did you put your additional amps underneath the rear cabin port seat?

 

[Dave burke]

And it’s puzzling to me why our systems were wired differently when the boats are the same model and year

 

[geohil]

And it’s puzzling to me why our systems were wired differently when the boats are the same model and year

I moved all my amps to the cabinet under the helm.
If you go with an eq your front and rest channel feed into it and it has dedicated front, rear, and sub outputs. The small Polk amp 2000.2 has an rca out so I used a second set of rca to go from the 2000.2 to the 5000.5.

 

[Dave burke]

Cool. You’ve done what I’m planning to do. A few questions:

1. Did you run all new speaker wire?
2. Did you run the power cables around the engine compartment or underneath the floor?
3. How did you mount your amps? I’m planning on using a piece of HDPE
4. Any advice based on your lessons learned?

Many thanks

 

[geohil]

Cool. You’ve done what I’m planning to do. A few questions:

1. Did you run all new speaker wire?
2. Did you run the power cables around the engine compartment or underneath the floor?
3. How did you mount your amps? I’m planning on using a piece of HDPE
4. Any advice based on your lessons learned?

Many thanks

1. Yes I ran new speaker wire - found a good deal for 12 and 14 gauge JL audio stuff.
2. Yes I ran new power cables under the floor. As usual I stole ideas and put a pipe insulator over them. 0 gauge to make sure I had capacity.
3. I mounted my amps and fuse block on a piece of marine plywood stained teak. I hate it and will go away when my back recovers from laying inside that damn helm compartment.
4. Whatever you estimate you need for any wire add 25%. The runs around the bow or through the engine compartment are longer than they look. Also anything running this much juice needs to go direct to the battery so plan on another battery kill switch as the amps will kill your battery in 7 days time without.

 

[geohil]

Oh and I added a second Polk 2000.2 to power my rear deck speakers (3 amps total) so my 0 gauge may be too much.