2017 AR210 Bimini - rope contacting while towing

[seabass2020]

I could not easily locate mine but here is a link to one at overtons. Let me know if you are interested and i will keep an eye out for mine.

http://m.overtons.com/modperl/product/details.cgi?pdesc=Fly-High-Rope-Guide&i=17540

Thanks for the offer, but after looking at it, I'd rather just figure out the current bimini.

Again, I appreciate you throwing that out there.

 

[itsdgm]

Keep in mind that I've never even seen your year/model.

Do the legs of the Bimini mount to the tower on fixed points? If so, I'm sure there's a variance in whoever built the towers or mounted the brackets. It looks to me that you could shorten the rear legs of the Bimini by removing the top attachment point and cutting off an equal amount of each leg and reattaching it. Or lower the attachment points on the tower.

Disclaimer #2: I have never stayed at a holiday inn express

 

[viper15]

Not sure if this applies, or helps ... But I had a similar issue with the bimini on my AR195, which has a similar tower/bimini setup. I didn't necessarily have an issue with the rope rubbing on the bimini too much. But I couldn't for the life of me get the bimini support struts to go to a shorter length without wrecking something. What I did was shorten the main support struts a bit. It allowed me to use all the adjust-ability of the bimini, and benefited with rope clearance. Here's a link of how I did it:

https://jetboaters.net/threads/ar195-bimini-adjustment.13843/#post-239660

 

[seabass2020]

Keep in mind that I've never even seen your year/model.

Do the legs of the Bimini mount to the tower on fixed points? If so, I'm sure there's a variance in whoever built the towers or mounted the brackets. It looks to me that you could shorten the rear legs of the Bimini by removing the top attachment point and cutting off an equal amount of each leg and reattaching it. Or lower the attachment points on the tower.

Disclaimer #2: I have never stayed at a holiday inn express

Yes, they mount to fixed points, but the rear legs are already adjustable (the book says always leave them on the longest setting). With alot of force, i can adjust them down one click, which really tightens/ stretches the bimini a ton. This does help a bit when the rope is above, but still considerable rubbing

 

[seabass2020]

Not sure if this applies, or helps ... But I had a similar issue with the bimini on my AR195, which has a similar tower/bimini setup. I didn't necessarily have an issue with the rope rubbing on the bimini too much. But I couldn't for the life of me get the bimini support struts to go to a shorter length without wrecking something. What I did was shorten the main support struts a bit. It allowed me to use all the adjust-ability of the bimini, and benefited with rope clearance. Here's a link of how I did it:

https://jetboaters.net/threads/ar195-bimini-adjustment.13843/#post-239660

This is brilliant. Exactly what I was looking for. I'm gonna read this closer when I'm not at work, but sounds like the same issue I'm having on my AR210.

 

[seabass2020]

Ok, after looking over that link, and rereading the manual. It does say to adjust the rear poles when wakeboarding. However, I believe this is not possible without the mod as describe by @viper15.

Thanks for posting that. I think this may be the answer to the question. Still curious why it's not possible to use that setting from the factory.

 

[swatski]

Yes, they mount to fixed points, but the rear legs are already adjustable (the book says always leave them on the longest setting). With alot of force, i can adjust them down one click, which really tightens/ stretches the bimini a ton. This does help a bit when the rope is above, but still considerable rubbing

I had the same issue, but the canvas loosed up quickly and I was able to collapse the legs to the shortest positions without doing the @viper15 mod. Which is brilliant, BTW!
(that was all before I lost the whole tower... which is a different story, lol)

Still, while wake surfing (and specifically - during wake surfing starts) the surf rope slides over the bimini rear edge hard; we use a sleeve that is sold as a trailer guide protector, got it from West Marine or BassPro. Learned that trick from my Super Nautique surfing friends who used to have the same problem in their boat.

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[seabass2020]

I had the same issue, but the canvas loosed up quickly and I was able to collapse the legs to the shortest positions without doing the @viper15 mod. Which is brilliant, BTW!
(that was all before I lost the whole tower... which is a different story, lol)

Still, while wake surfing (and specifically - during wake surfing starts) the surf rope slides over the bimini rear edge hard; we use a sleeve that is sold as a trailer guide protector, got it from West Marine or BassPro. Learned that trick from my Super Nautique surfing friends who used to have the same problem in their boat.

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At the risk of derailing the thread, can you tell me how you removed your tower? I’m wanting to remove my tower to store the boat for the winter

 

[swatski]

At the risk of derailing the thread, can you tell me how you removed your tower? I’m wanting to remove my tower to store the boat for the winter

That was easy-breezy. I just took my Yamaha boat out in the ocean and it collapsed on its own!
https://jetboaters.net/threads/warn...rs-with-forward-swept-wakeboard-towers.14828/

But seriously, I would recommend doing the bolt mod I came up with (to lengthen the tower bolt) - seems to work okay. Or at least keep an eye on this thing.

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[seabass2020]

That was easy-breezy. I just took my Yamaha boat out in the ocean and it collapsed on its own!
https://jetboaters.net/threads/warning-2015-18-yamaha-“ar”-boat-owners-with-forward-swept-wakeboard-towers.14828/

But seriously, I would recommend doing the bolt mod I came up with (to lengthen the tower bolt) - seems to work okay. Or at least keep an eye on this thing.

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Ha, yeah, I read your whole thread. I was thinking for some reason that you actually removed the whole tower (not just lowered it by removing the two bolts). It looks like there is a snap ring on a pin through the place where the tower actually pivots.

 

[swatski]

Ha, yeah, I read your whole thread. I was thinking for some reason that you actually removed the whole tower (not just lowered it by removing the two bolts). It looks like there is a snap ring on a pin through the place where the tower actually pivots.

Correct, I used needle nose pliers to remove those.
Those "pins" are fat but come out easy, with little persuasion.
Need at least two people to do this comfortably.

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[seabass2020]

Correct, I used needle nose pliers to remove those.
Those "pins" are fat but come out easy, with little persuasion.
Need at least two people to do this comfortably.

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After removing the snap rings, you just tap the pins out? Like with a hammer and screwdriver towards the outside of the boat?

 

[swatski]

After removing the snap rings, you just tap the pins out? Like with a hammer and screwdriver towards the outside of the boat?

Yes, I think I used a large bolt with a flat end to hammer the "pins" out without scratching them.
Again, a helper can be very useful to lower the tower and find the best angle when tapping those pins out.

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[Lakedogs]

I wanted to reopen this topic as I found I am having the same problem on my 2018 212x. In addition to the tow rope concerns with the bimini top open, I've also noticed that when the bimini is folded against the tower with its cover, the bimini is too tall. I have to route a tow line under the bimini and above the speaker bar otherwise the rope would be pulling down on the bimini. Also, the anchor light is blocked by the bimini and not visible from behind the boat. I am also not able to use the adjustments on the rear support struts to lower the back portion of the bimini. The bimini is far too tight at the longest pole setting.

I've seen the nice write-up by @viper15 on how to shorten the poles, but I'm surprised this is necessary on a new boat. Has anyone else come across this issue or had feedback from their dealer on another solution?

Thanks!

 

[seabass2020]

Definitely still a problem. It has not loosened up any, and I can still only lower the rear supports by one click using an unreasonable amount of force. I also can't tow with the bimini collapsed well, as like @Lakedogs the bimini is too tall collapsed and the rope pushes down on it.

The best way to tow with this boat is to remove the bimini all together, which obviously is ridiculous

 

[MidnightRider]

I wanted to reopen this topic as I found I am having the same problem on my 2018 212x. In addition to the tow rope concerns with the bimini top open, I've also noticed that when the bimini is folded against the tower with its cover, the bimini is too tall. I have to route a tow line under the bimini and above the speaker bar otherwise the rope would be pulling down on the bimini. Also, the anchor light is blocked by the bimini and not visible from behind the boat. I am also not able to use the adjustments on the rear support struts to lower the back portion of the bimini. The bimini is far too tight at the longest pole setting.

I've seen the nice write-up by @viper15 on how to shorten the poles, but I'm surprised this is necessary on a new boat. Has anyone else come across this issue or had feedback from their dealer on another solution?

Thanks!

As far as the bimini being in the way of the tow point while folded up, I'll see if I can explain my solution since I don't have a pic. I first detach the bimini completely (all legs). I then fold it up and instead of putting it in front of the tow point I lift over the the tow point and rest it on top of the tower in front of the tow point. In the location you will of course realize that the main (middle) supports no longer reach their tower attachment point as they did in factory folded position. What you will also realize though is the that back poles now are in position to reach the middle pole tower attachment point. So in folded position I place the back poles in the middle pole mounting points. This is kind of a strain on the poles cause they are in a weird position to lock them into the middle supports. To alleviate this I removed the set screw from the mount where the back poles attach to the middle poles. This allows you to twist the back poles into a better position to lock into the tower mount points. I've found that the set screw is completely unnecessary even when the bimini is open as they the poles stay put where you put them even without the set screws. Hope that all makes sense. I really like this new position of the stowed bimini as its completely out of the way of the tow point.

I will also add that I did @viper15 bimini mod and took 2-1/4" off the middle poles which worked perfect for me when the bimini is open. All ropes go on top now without touching, except for surfing - for surfing we still go under.

 

[seabass2020]

2019 boats still have this problem. Amazing that after a few years, they still can't tow wakeboarders without the rope contacting the bimini...

 

[spatty99]

Really disappointing design work.

 

[swatski]

It is a tough issue to solve in general, in Yamaha’s defense. Most wake boats just cut the bimini and have no cover behind the tower for that reason.

If the picture is a Yamaha commercial - that’s just silly though...

I think the bimini rear supports can be modified to go lower, there is thread on this somewhere.

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[swatski]

The rope should not make contact when wakeboarding.

When wakesurfing - it is inevitable during deep water starts, other than with the E-models with the big towers.

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