2021 SX210 Stereo upgrade - on a budget

[Wrecked Rooster]

@Wrecked Rooster Yeah, I gave up reading about it and trying to figure it out. I just can't seem to comprehend it all and then I worried that I am buying junk. Ohms, Watts, amps, combining channels, distortion, splicing, running speakers on a channel in parrallel or in series, etc. SMH

It would be great, for me, if I could just see a list of complete package ideas, with speakers, amp, wire, expandability, etc. Like Good, Better Best, etc. With all components. LOL... I could install it I am sure just confused on what to get to serve my needs now and possibly future expandability if needed

in the same boat. Luckily I have a few friends that know audio systems. They are going to help me out. I’ll pass along any info I get along the way. I’m wanting 6 6.5” speakers in the boat with two 8” tower speakers and a sub. Plus the amp to push them. I would also like to run the volume on the tower independently from the rest of the boat.

 

[HangOutdoors]

I think that is where I want to go, but not right now. I am just looking for 4 6.5" and an amp that I could expand up to possibly 6 6.5" and a sub. Just want to be a starting path and to go down the road with future upgrades without having to replace or shoot the bankroll at it.

Would appreciate any info you get to pass on.

Edit: the infinity amp and speakers posted at the beginning of this thread seem decent, but as with anything I kept reading more info and wasn't sure.

 

[Maineiac]

I think that is where I want to go, but not right now. I am just looking for 4 6.5" and an amp that I could expand up to possibly 6 6.5" and a sub. Just want to be a starting path and to go down the road with future upgrades without having to replace or shoot the bankroll at it.

Would appreciate any info you get to pass on.

Edit: the infinity amp and speakers posted at the beginning of this thread seem decent, but as with anything I kept reading more info and wasn't sure.

I found that two amps was better when adding in tower speakers rather than one really powerful amp to run everything. I have one 1600w amp that powers 4 cabin speakers and my sub, plus a smaller 600w amp for the towers.

 

[ripler]

With the right amp you can easily power 4 interior speakers and a sub with one amp, I would use a separate amp for the tower speakers. When you are picking an amp you want to pick an amp that is rated to deliver more wattage than what your speakers are rated for, this allows flexibility when you are tuning your system. If your receiver doesn't have zone control a simple equalizer like the Clarion EQS755 can be used to control the interior speakers, sub and tower speaker levels. Don't waste your time putting any sub woofer under the seats, you will not get any sound from it. Instead plan on using a infinite baffle subwoofer that doesn't require an enclosure, they are easy to install if you don't mind blowing a big hole in your boat. If you trailer your boat or don't boat in humid climates, you can save some money by buying regular car audio amps instead of marine rated. I had regular car amps in my Yamaha for 10 years without an issue. Also you can save some money by not getting LED rings on your speakers, I installed over 500 LEDS on my Yamaha as a winter project and never turned them on once while boating. With the Yamaha charging system you want to at least use class D amplifiers which are less power hungry. Rockford Fosgate has a series called Prime, which are mostly class D amps and they are budget friendly. I used 2 of these on my Yamaha to run 4 interior speakers, a 10" sub, and 2 Wetsounds REV 8 speakers. You will also want to add a second battery, a deep cycle battery is the best for a stereo system. Both my batteries in my Yamaha were deep cycle, there is no need for a starting battery with the Yamaha engines.

 

[oramac]

I agree with many of the sentiments expressed here. To keep it as simple as possible; 4 ohm speakers and amplifiers are more standard...look for those. Running speakers in parallel cuts the ohm load. Running speakers in series increases the ohm load. To keep it simple run one speaker per channel and look to match the RMS wattage for the speakers with the RMS output from the amp. A slightly under-powered amp will make it far less likely to overload and blow your speakers. I also agree that a separate amp for tower speakers is a good idea. It's easier to zone your audio that way.

 

[Wrecked Rooster]

@ripler great info man. Really appreciate it.

 

[ripler]

I agree with many of the sentiments expressed here. To keep it as simple as possible; 4 ohm speakers and amplifiers are more standard...look for those. Running speakers in series cuts the ohm load. Running speakers in parallel cuts the wattage each speaker gets. To keep it simple run one speaker per channel and look to match the RMS wattage for the speakers with the RMS output from the amp. A slightly under-powered amp will make it far less likely to overload and blow your speakers. I also agree that a separate amp for tower speakers is a good idea. It's easier to zone your audio that way.

This isn't correct. Running speakers in series increases the impedance, running them in parallel reduces the impedance. For example 2-four ohm speakers in series would result in a 8 ohm load. Running 2-4 ohm speakers in parallel will result in a 2 ohm load.


@Wrecked Rooster You are welcome. I installed a nice system in my Yamaha and just finished a kick ass system in my new MasterCraft that is really loud and crystal clear. I can help with any questions.

 

[Wrecked Rooster]

This isn't correct. Running speakers in series increases the impedance, running them in parallel reduces the impedance. For example 2-four ohm speakers in series would result in a 8 ohm load. Running 2-4 ohm speakers in parallel will result in a 2 ohm load.


@Wrecked Rooster You are welcome. I installed a nice system in my Yamaha and just finished a kick ass system in my new MasterCraft that is really loud and crystal clear. I can help with any questions.

Perfect! I'll try to piece together a system from what I have learned and shoot it to ya through PM. Really appreciate it. If what I send is complete garbage and/or there are better options, please let me know. Not going to hurt my feelings at all.

 

[oramac]

This isn't correct. Running speakers in series increases the impedance, running them in parallel reduces the impedance. For example 2-four ohm speakers in series would result in a 8 ohm load. Running 2-4 ohm speakers in parallel will result in a 2 ohm load.

I learned something new. I edited my post. Thanks!

 

[Maineiac]

@Wrecked Rooster Yeah, I gave up reading about it and trying to figure it out. I just can't seem to comprehend it all and then I worried that I am buying junk. Ohms, Watts, amps, combining channels, distortion, splicing, running speakers on a channel in parrallel or in series, etc. SMH

It would be great, for me, if I could just see a list of complete package ideas, with speakers, amp, wire, expandability, etc. Like Good, Better Best, etc. With all components. LOL... I could install it I am sure just confused on what to get to serve my needs now and possibly future expandability if needed

You might be able to get this info from car audio places in your area, or even your dealer. That’s what I did. I found some stereo shops that had experience doing boat installs and also my dealer down in St Louis and they gave me the ideas of where to start.

 

[Wrecked Rooster]

@ripler @Maineiac Question. If I want to run tower speakers that have the following numbers:

• Peak: 600 watts per pair / 300 watts each @ 4 ohm
• RMS: 300 watts per pair / 150 watts each @ 4 ohm

I would need to get an amp that has at least 150 watts 4 ohm per channel. And run each speaker to it's own channel. Is that right?

 

[Adrian @ JB Solutions]

Correct.

 

[Maineiac]

@ripler @Maineiac Question. If I want to run tower speakers that have the following numbers:

• Peak: 600 watts per pair / 300 watts each @ 4 ohm
• RMS: 300 watts per pair / 150 watts each @ 4 ohm

I would need to get an amp that has at least 150 watts 4 ohm per channel. And run each speaker to it's own channel. Is that right?

Correct. Or get an amp that lets you bridge channels. For example, I am using a Kenwood X302-4 for my towers. It is 50w x4 @ 4 ohms by default but bridged it runs 150w x2 @ 4 ohms.

 

[Adrian @ JB Solutions]

I will also add that most of these ratings are at 14.4v. At the sandbar you are going to be around 12.4...........so always go extra with the power.

 

[Wrecked Rooster]

I will also add that most of these ratings are at 14.4v. At the sandbar you are going to be around 12.4...........so always go extra with the power.

Thanks for the info! Now, how do you figure power draw to determine what size battery you need to run the equipment while the boat is off? My understanding is, if I go with an AGM battery, I can use about 80% of the AH capacity before I need to recharge it. And with a LiFeP04 battery, I can use the full 100% of the AH capacity without hurting the battery while also being charged to a full 14.4v.

I have a spare 100 AH LiFeP04 laying around that I can use, or I can get something else. First though, I would need to know how much the system actually draws to figure out the needed AH's. Is there a formula that can be used? Thanks again!

 

[ripler]

@ripler @Maineiac Question. If I want to run tower speakers that have the following numbers:

• Peak: 600 watts per pair / 300 watts each @ 4 ohm
• RMS: 300 watts per pair / 150 watts each @ 4 ohm

I would need to get an amp that has at least 150 watts 4 ohm per channel. And run each speaker to it's own channel. Is that right?

Yes, but as mentioned above the amp output ratings are usually at 14.4V, so get something that will be rated at least 200W per channel @ 4ohms, or you could use a 400W 4 channel amp that you can bridge into 2 channels.

This would be a good option, it's rated 250W x 2 channels bridged, @ 4 OHMS, this will give you plenty of overhead in case you wanted to upgrade in the future.

Prime 500 Watt 4-Channel Amplifier | R2-500X4 | Rockford Fosgate ®

The R2-500X4 is a 500W Class-D amp, 4Ω/2Ω stereo or 4Ω mono. High efficiency, C.L.E.A.N. clipping detection, & P.O.W.E.R. supply for high dynamic power.

rockfordfosgate.com

 

[Pokes1789]

Just ordered this equipment and was able to piece it together for $385 ??. We took our boat out today for the first time on its maiden voyage and the stereo is complete garbage. Hopefully this helps for a first stereo upgrade. Any good post anyone can share for installing a second battery for stereo only? Thanks great post

 

[oramac]

Any good post anyone can share for installing a second battery for stereo only? Thanks great post

I just used a basic Perko two-battery switch. There's already enough room in the battery well for a spare, so you just need the switch, the cables, and the battery. Follow the directions on the switch packaging. It took about 15-20 minutes to do the job.

 

[HangOutdoors]

@Pokes1789 I recommend the Blue Seas with the ACR, (Automatic Charging Relay) Straight Forward. When wired correctly you just turn it to on and you don't have to screw with switching at any time unless you need to. The ACR will take care of charging both batteries without you having to think about changing the switch. You have the ability to Combine them if you need to in an emergency if one dies. I would wire the engine and bilge to the starter and everything else to the house battery and you will be solid.

Just need the switch and some battery cables and you can set it up. Plenty of threads on it here on the forum. Search Blue Sea

Amazon.com: Blue Sea Systems 7650 Add-A-Battery Kit, Beige (7650-BSS): Sports & Outdoors

 

[jamesk]

The Infinity head units that come with these boats have a lot of noise. I added speakers, amp and sub to my boat but there was a lot of noise / hiss from the head unit. You could confirm this by putting your music on pause with the volume up but I could hear it when music was playing as well. I tried 4 different Infinity units (315 and 415) , I even spoke with an engineer at infinity that sent me a brand new tested unit....it still made noise and they pretty much said that was just the way it was. It was not an amp problem or bad ground etc. I replaced it with a fusion head unit, no issue with the noise/hiss ( well, very little) Was well worth the $500 (to me) plus the controls are much better and wireless remotes that cost $50 are awesome! ( I have 4 of them mounted all over my boat)