Adding an amp and mid speakers to my 242

[212s]

I think I am going to push my batteries back some to make more room under this port seat for the new amp. Will have to change the power wiring from the batteries to the switches since I doubt it will be long enough. Anyone know what gauge wire runs from the battery to the switch?

Looks the battery to switch wire is about 4awg. If you're going to run the power to the amps through the House switch which is probably rated 140a so you can turn them off, 4awg is plenty for one amp. If you intend to add another amp later on, you may need to upgrade or add to the wire gauge from the battery to the input of the switch to carry the additional current of the second amp. Don't forget you need to account for the current for the house system of about 35a plus the USB (?), so total will be 35+35+35+10=115a. 4awg in short runs is good for 100-150a depending on the wire so you may need to bump up to 2awg to ensure your capacity is safe. You have two options, replace the wire with 2awg to the switch, or add a second 4awg to the switch to double the current carrying capacity.

Note that the amplifiers if wired correctly with the remote turn on from the stereo, will be in standby and draw very little power when off. No real need to run the amps through the House switch. Or you can opt to get another switch and run just the amps through it. This is important as the switches themselves have a max current capacity - typically 140a continuous, 200a peak.

Also don't forget fuses to protect the boat. The JL 280 amps have 35a fuses inline so you just need to fuse the USB (?) plug.

I'll run 4 AWG from the house switch to the new bus bar.

That would be fine if that's how you end up doing it.

 

[Shookie]

Also don't forget fuses to protect the boat. The JL 280 amps have 35a fuses inline so you just need to fuse the USB (?) plug.

Thanks, it appeared that way from the manual but I wasn't 100% sure. I was looking for 35A fuses and it seems to be an odd size so options were limited. Nice it's included.

Looks the battery to switch wire is about 4awg. If you're going to run the power to the amps through the House switch which is probably rated 140a so you can turn them off, 4awg is plenty for one amp. If you intend to add another amp later on, you may need to upgrade or add to the wire gauge from the battery to the input of the switch to carry the additional current of the second amp. Don't forget you need to account for the current for the house system of about 35a plus the USB (?), so total will be 35+35+35+10=115a. 4awg in short runs is good for 100-150a depending on the wire so you may need to bump up to 2awg to ensure your capacity is safe. You have two options, replace the wire with 2awg to the switch, or add a second 4awg to the switch to double the current carrying capacity.

Note that the amplifiers if wired correctly with the remote turn on from the stereo, will be in standby and draw very little power when off. No real need to run the amps through the House switch. Or you can opt to get another switch and run just the amps through it. This is important as the switches themselves have a max current capacity - typically 140a continuous, 200a peak.

My gut tells me to go through the switch that way everything shuts off when the House switch is off. I have a 2nd bilge direct to the battery but that's it. Seems like a circuit breaker is a good idea for this versus a fuse. I like being able to press reset instead of having to replace fuses so I might go that route. I didn't think about the rest of the current so thanks for that reminder!

If that switch is 140A continuous, a 150A breaker is probably right.... correct? To add a wire to the switch, do you just take to cover off?

I updated my schematic to show 0 AWG for the breaker to the switch, then 4 from there. Also read about grounding the Fusion to everything else to eliminate ground hum so added that. Thoughts?

 

[Bizywk]

Nice Diagrams @Shookie!

Two questions: 1) On both diagrams, you have speakers shown at the Captain's and 1St Mate's Chairs. Did you do that for simplicity and they're really going in the sidewall, or are you putting in some type of enclosure?

2) You tied the rear and mid cockpit speakers into a single output. It seems like the biggest problem is that the folks in the rear cockpit and bow sit on the speakers so they get blasted out while the center cockpit folks are starved for volume while underway. Wouldn't it be better to tie the bow and rear cockpit speakers together into a single output and balance the center cockpit speakers on the amp with a little more power?

 

[Adrian @ JB Solutions]

I would go 0 gauge to the bus bars, at a short run the cost is almost nothing. 8 to the amps, probably 12 to the USB and radio. (8 is super over kill).

 

[Shookie]

Nice Diagrams @Shookie!

Two questions: 1) On both diagrams, you have speakers shown at the Captain's and 1St Mate's Chairs. Did you do that for simplicity and they're really going in the sidewall, or are you putting in some type of enclosure?

Thanks, I don't use Visio often but felt it would be worth it for getting some schematics together. The boss is a visual person so had to show her some ideas. I'm adding 2 speakers to those locations. Not having speakers there makes me turn it up louder and annoy everyone else. Just going to mount in the fiberglass like others have done.

2) You tied the rear and mid cockpit speakers into a single output. It seems like the biggest problem is that the folks in the rear cockpit and bow sit on the speakers so they get blasted out while the center cockpit folks are starved for volume while underway. Wouldn't it be better to tie the bow and rear cockpit speakers together into a single output and balance the center cockpit speakers on the amp with a little more power?

I put the mid and rear cockpit on the same channel thinking I can control that area as 1 zone. That leaves the bow and tower on the other... while moving I can lower volume if too loud up front..... all ears on other opinions though.

 

[Shookie]

I would go 0 gauge to the bus bars, at a short run the cost is almost nothing. 8 to the amps, probably 12 to the USB and radio. (8 is super over kill).

Yeah good point, so I have to buy 1-2 feet extra of each... no big deal. The 8 AWG for the USB was a copy paste. I'll use 12 AWG there. The wire calculator said 16 is all I need but there's not much of a difference in cost for 5-6 feet of it. Thanks for the input!

 

[Shookie]

@adrianp89 Can you connect 2 - 0 AWG cables to that switch? I assume you can, but I don't know what the inside of it looks like.

 

[Adrian @ JB Solutions]

What switch?

 

[Shookie]

What switch?

The house switch? I've seen pics with an extra cable wired to it. No idea what the inside looks like or how much you can connect to it.

 

[Adrian @ JB Solutions]

The house switch? I've seen pics with an extra cable wired to it. No idea what the inside looks like or how much you can connect to it.

I would think they are all a little different. With that being said they are all kind of the same, a plate slides out where the wire goes in and then there is a nut and a bolt for a ring terminal to go on. I don’t see any concerns with 0. I connected my amps directly the battery.

 

[Shookie]

Placed order for most/all of my cables today. Ordered from KnuKonceptz.


Updated my wiring drawing....


Remaining items to order are the breaker, buss bars, lug rings and speaker terminals. Oh, and a hole saw kit.

 

[tabbibus]

Placed order for most/all of my cables today. Ordered from KnuKonceptz.
View attachment 149724

Updated my wiring drawing....
View attachment 149725

Remaining items to order are the breaker, buss bars, lug rings and speaker terminals. Oh, and a hole saw kit.

By breakers you mean fuses?

 

[Shookie]

By breakers you mean fuses?

Nah, meant breaker. I am putting in a 150A breaker between the battery and switch. The fuses for the JL amp and USB come with them so I don't have to buy anything extra,

 

[212s]

Thanks, it appeared that way from the manual but I wasn't 100% sure. I was looking for 35A fuses and it seems to be an odd size so options were limited. Nice it's included.

It's ok to go a bit higher, so if 40a fuses are available locally, that's fine. Fuses are there to protect when a short occurs so anything close will work the same way and protect the boat's systems.

My gut tells me to go through the switch that way everything shuts off when the House switch is off.

That's fine...just remember the switch has a max current level or it can be damaged from too much current creating heat.

Seems like a circuit breaker is a good idea for this versus a fuse. I like being able to press reset instead of having to replace fuses so I might go that route.

Fuses or breakers is fine, but don't pay extra for breakers. They have one purpose, to cut the current when something goes wrong. Breakers should never pop if the wiring and connections are properly rated. Same as your house breakers - they only pop when something goes wrong to protect the wiring and the house from a fire. If nothing goes wrong, they never pop. Fuses are perfectly fine and usually cheaper.

If that switch is 140A continuous, a 150A breaker is probably right.... correct?

You don't need a breaker before the switch, you need it after to protect the switch. However no protection is really needed for the switch, you fuse the lines from it to protect the whole system.

To add a wire to the switch, do you just take to cover off?

No, you unscrew the whole switch from the panel, and on the bottom of the switch you remove a loose cover plate and then just take off the nut to add the wiring lug connectors.

I updated my schematic to show 0 AWG for the breaker to the switch, then 4 from there. Also read about grounding the Fusion to everything else to eliminate ground hum so added that. Thoughts?

The Fusion is wired to the negative bus bar already so it's not needed. As long as all negative wires are on the same House battery line, you shouldn't have any hum issues.

 

[Shookie]

It's ok to go a bit higher, so if 40a fuses are available locally, that's fine. Fuses are there to protect when a short occurs so anything close will work the same way and protect the boat's systems.

Since the amp has the 35 amp fuses included, I don't see a need to add something else to the power line for the amp only.

Fuses or breakers is fine, but don't pay extra for breakers. They have one purpose, to cut the current when something goes wrong. Breakers should never pop if the wiring and connections are properly rated. Same as your house breakers - they only pop when something goes wrong to protect the wiring and the house from a fire. If nothing goes wrong, they never pop. Fuses are perfectly fine and usually cheaper.

The breaker I am going to buy is Stinger brand... around $50. There are cheap knockoff's for $25 but I'd rather pay a bit more for something "better" than a cheaper Chinese knockoff. I know often times these are made in the same factory but I'd rather not risk issues by paying a bit more.

You don't need a breaker before the switch, you need it after to protect the switch. However no protection is really needed for the switch, you fuse the lines from it to protect the whole system.

This seems counter intuitive to me.... but I think I get it. If there's a surge from an amp, having the beaker after the switch prevents that surge from getting to the switch... right?

I was only adding this because I've read in a number of threads and see pictures where guys have put in a breaker or inline fuse... so I was kind of blindly following along.

The Fusion is wired to the negative bus bar already so it's not needed. As long as all negative wires are on the same House battery line, you shouldn't have any hum issues.

I've read a number of threads on here about guys having hum and ground loop issues. Have seen multiple recommendations to add a new ground wire from the head unit to the battery or bus bar. I would think it's all connected already, but people have had issues. I guess I can try it first and if there's an issue, run a separate wire.

 

[Adrian @ JB Solutions]

Def use a fuse inline on power wire to amps. I prefer to use a fused distribution block.

 

[Shookie]

Def use a fuse inline on power wire to amps. I prefer to use a fused distribution block.

The JL amp has its own 35 amp inline fuse so I'm all set there. Updated my schematic

 

[Adrian @ JB Solutions]

My bad, I thought the fuse was built into the amp.

 

[212s]

This seems counter intuitive to me.... but I think I get it. If there's a surge from an amp, having the beaker after the switch prevents that surge from getting to the switch... right?

Yes, if the amp shorts out (rare) then the breaker/fuse protects the switch from burning out, and also protects the entire boat wiring from burning out.

People confuse a breaker or fuse inline with the amp as protecting the amp, but it's really there to protect the entire boat. Just like breakers in your house, they're not there to protect the Hydro company wires, they're there to protect your house wiring from a fire and you inside the house. An amp is easily replaced, a whole boat costs a bit more. So the goal is to always protect the big investment, and isolating the amp from the rest of the boat is the way to do it.

I've read a number of threads on here about guys having hum and ground loop issues. Have seen multiple recommendations to add a new ground wire from the head unit to the battery or bus bar. I would think it's all connected already, but people have had issues. I guess I can try it first and if there's an issue, run a separate wire.

Yup, try it first. 99% of the time it works fine if everything else was wired properly. Issues arise from improperly wired systems.

 

[Shookie]

Thanks @212s ! Appreciate your insight/advice on all this