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Every time we go out, we drop anchor. People NEVER show up on time . So we launch (we live next to a lake, but the ramp is on the other side of the lake) when it's not busy, and then we hang out at a more convenient bay for people coming to the lake. Usually has us anchored for 30 minutes.
I have the FX-7 and had to trim about and inch off the stock for it to fit in the bow locker, with the stock resting in the proper fitments of the locker.
I have 10 ft of 5/16 chain rode to 200ft of nylon. Everytime I've thrown in the fortress, I've never had to touch it. Now, my previous Danforth, I was always babysitting it.
If you wanna be safe, get the extra length rode chain and be confident it will hold everytime. Your rode chain allows your anchor to do a better job.
I have read a ton of theory but very little practical knowledge here. Lets not forget the 3 purposes the chain provides, #1 is connection to the anchor, #2 is chaff protection of what will be on the ground, rocks etc. and #3 is it counter acts the ropes desire to float. This is where the fortress recommends more, they make a lighter anchor so you really need to add that weight back to it and the easiest way is with chain. The added chain per depth ratio again is completely relevant to your rode length. If you carry 200' of rode then 8' to 10' of chain should be on the other end so you can deploy everything you have if need be. Shorter heavier chain is sufficient but I would not go any shorter than 5' of chain no matter what for that chaff protection. I absolutely love the fortress brand anchors, I have put them well to the test and way beyond. For now I am using a Richter anchor with an anchor buddy, no chain etc but I am on a deep lake with very steep sides and shallow coves (man made lakes) so we have to be close to shore to anchor since I only have about 50' of rode when it is deployed. It works well for the lakes I am on however when I do get to make the Bimini trip with you all, a fortress will be in the locker with 200' of rode and 8' of stainless 3/8" or 10' of 5/16" stainless chain. I used that combo for years when I lived in FL and it held no matter where I was. I will also be carrying a sea anchor and highly recommend them to those who are making the crossing, it is too deep to anchor in the Gulf Stream and currents are too vast, best option there is a sea anchor if in need, they are extremely light weight and take up little to no space, they are a great thing to have.
Danforth style anchors are designed to hook up being pulled laterally, this is where the chain helps to sink the rode so it creates the proper pull angles. Fortress anchors usually have rave reviews in holding power because people tend to follow their directions by providing enough chain weight that they recommend. All danforths, if the principal is followed out hold just as well though some are weaker and the flukes or shafts can bend etc. Fortress will replace any part you mangle and I have mangled them usually on retrieval and there were never any questions asked. When we knew we were anchoring in rock piles, we started to add a 1/4" line to the top of the anchor that would go down with the rode. This would allow us to pull the anchor out backwards if it was lodged into rock without damage. The only issue was dealing with the second line but it always beat having to commit a valuable anchor to the depths....
I would go with 3/8" rode for the additional strength. You likely will never need it but would be very disappointed if you broke the rode and lost your anchor.
5/16" chain is oversized for our boats. 3/16" would be typically. Even 3/16" chains is several times stronger than 3/8" anchor rode. I chose 5/16 chain for the extra weight that should help to set the anchor.
The thing about anchoring is there are so many variables (length of boat, sea state, current, wind, bottom type, anchor type) what works for one will fail for another. Chain is important but, scope, scope, scope when in doubt put out more line. 5:1 7:1 10:1 Did I forget to mention scope?
We anchor just about every time we are out...but are often in shallow water with a muddy bottom. In my case, I usually dopy 2:1 - 3:1 scope on my baby box and it sets and holds every time.
Take a short piece, 4", of 550 cord (nylon line) and every 10 ' open your anchor line and weave it through. You just untwist the line and put the 550 in between the strands. then release the twist and it will stay, just with the tension of the line. Use a lighter to burn the ends of the 550 or it will unravel.
I have a Fortress Fx 7 with the rode chain size and length recommended by Fortress and it always holds fast. I anchor in fairly shallow water with Sandy bottoms and in strong winds I never had a problem. Vast improvement over my Yamaha anchor.
You can easily mark your anchor line with spray paint in 20' sections. I typically pay it out knowing my wingspan measurement. For instance I can quickly measure out 50' by spreading the line out in my wing span 10 times. You kinda get the feel of it after a few times. Keeping your anchor line neatly coiled is key.
After more research it looks like the Flook is a "fluke" not very good reviews and only sold in Australia. Was designed for sea planes. Still the concept sounds great.