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Another " how to winterize" thread

I would agree with MOST of his statements.
 
5. The last step is to have a 4L jug of non-tox ( environmentally friendly anti-freeze ) which you would pour down into the water system of the boat.....same entry point where you hook up the garden hose to. You may need to get a 2nd adaptor for a quick change of hose as you keep the engine running during the switch. Once the non-tox has run through the system you will see the pink liquid coming out of the jet nozzle in the stern. Once the 4L bottle is empty, run the boat for 30 more seconds then shut off immediately.


If you just "pour" the AF in the flush port it will just "pour" out of the pump without circulating through the engine doing absolutely NOTHING !
It must be pressurized through the system ( with aprox the same pressure as your garden hose ) and the incoming water linefrom the pump clamped off. ( another good use for the "Tow Valves" )
This method assures all the AF goes through the engine and exhaust system. ( you'll notice when "blowing out the engine" pink( or whatever color AF you use ) will blow out of the exhaust. .......AF in the waterbox all winter instead of water ;)
We do this RELIGIOUSLY on all watercraft and jetboats in for winterization.
 
I pump antifreeze into the hose connections on the engines with a bilge pump (Walmart) from a bucket. I don't worry about the water lines from the pumps. About a gallon and a half each side. I always have antifreeze coming out the pee holes and pumps well before the gallon and a half is run through.
 
This there a reason you can't spray the fogging oil in the smaller inlet tube leading to the engine as shown on the picture?? Instead of taking the whole air box assy off? View attachment 14046 ... pic courtesy: @JetBoatPilot

This is where I sprayed my fogging oil in. I first took off the air filter and did it that way but it was a PITA. My brother pointed out the hose you have in your pic and I used that for the other motor. It worked fine for me and it was a lot easier to just loosen the clamp and the hose instead of messing with the air filter.
 
This is where I sprayed my fogging oil in. I first took off the air filter and did it that way but it was a PITA. My brother pointed out the hose you have in your pic and I used that for the other motor. It worked fine for me and it was a lot easier to just loosen the clamp and the hose instead of messing with the air filter.

Same, makes fogging an easy no brainer...
 
I am getting ready to winterize our boat and put her to sleep for the winter. Quick question about fogging. On our old I/O, I fog until the engine turns off, then drain the water, and then I am done. So on a Yamaha, do you turn off the water from the hose and blow out the water before you fog? That way there is no water in the engines. How much time do I have before it overheats if I am fogging after I blow out the water?
 
No, you fog while running at fast idle (approx 2500rpm) on the hose, although you may need to run at no wake speed. You don't want to spray until the engine dies on the Yamaha, as Yamaha specs spraying into each throttle body for 1 minute on 4 throttle body engines and for 4 minutes on 1 throttle body engines. So your going to be running on the hose to do this. They also state that the oil will drop rpm, but it shouldn't kill the engine. Your going to blow out the water and moisture, as always, after you finish this process and it will not affect the fog job that you have done. You ALWAYS want to blow out your engines after pulling from the water or flushing them, same with fogging.
 
Thanks! What's your thoughts on removing the spark plugs after turning off the engine and fogging through the spark plug holes as well?
 
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