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Another soundproofing thread... the RAAMat experience

How does one bend a drive shaft? Something get past your grate?
 
No idea, I've only had the boat for 15 hours of use. See my other thread on it.
https://jetboaters.net/threads/engine-noise-while-riding.19246/

I could just be paranoid. Which is what I was hoping the responses would be.

Just found a 2015 for sale in the RIGHT price range, Having two boats at once is the only reason I'm not on my way to go see it today.
 
@swatski Are you happy with this RAAMat material? Would you use this mat again?

I need to do something with Chap. The twins are noisy.
 
@swatski Are you happy with this RAAMat material? Would you use this mat again?

I need to do something with Chap. The twins are noisy.
Yes, it holds really well.
However, filling the large voids in the stern, along storage comps, bulkheads, inside the gunwales etc. (with memory, acoustic, or expandable polyurethane foam products) appears to be much more effective in muffling the sound, vibrations and noise, in my experience.

I would go both, again. However, mass-loaded vinyl/butyl products that work wonders on sheet metal deadening in cars are just far less effective over fiberglass/FRP. This is to say - yes, I like the RAAMat a lot, it helps but I would not expect miracles.

Also - a good engine hatch seal is critical.

 
If you are looking at spray foam use. Use the Loctite Tite Foam it is a CCF 4x the more dense then (Great Stuff) and Loctite Tite Foam is much better for a wet environment
 
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I always thought some of the concepts here would apply to boating. Especially the clay around open holes (like cabling port through the fuel tank), and then hanging several "walls" of rubber as well. I always like this builder for home building and the concepts explained. For those that like "watching foam sprayed".

 
For the hard to reach places we are giving this a try. View attachment 96400View attachment 96399
Brilliant!

I know you know, but just a PSA for general information - pouring/dispensing the foam fast (large volume at once) may lead to excessive heat inside a profile, so go slow and/or incremental anywhere around the outer shell - the Yamaha FRP is super thin and could be deformed by heat, possibly.

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