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Interesting to find out why. I have always put a thin coat of anti-seize on plugs making sure I stay far from the electrode and I have never had an issue.
I used anti sieze and put in NGK.. Never saw that bulletin. I don't see what it would hurt. It could also be a marketing ploy. " Our plugs are so good you can skip the hassle and mess of anti sieze" kind of a thing.
This was discussed in another thread on here. Basically what I remember it coming down to is NGK wanting to cover their arse for plugs breaking off in the cylinder. When you put antiseize on the threads it becomes very easy to overtighten them. That is why I always hand tighten mine and then give a good 1/4 to 1/2 turn more with the wrench and I'm good to go. I always use antiseize on mine and am careful not to over tighten.
Would be interesting to test if anti seize has any impact on the torque resistance when tightening a plug. Would seem more common sense to put out a bulletin that says - Be careful not to over tighten if you use anti seize.
OK....I had to google this, and found the following article post (unfortunately his data was deleted, but from the comments below one can infer that they sheared with 30% less torque)
The poster also says he's heard that you should use 20% less torque when using anti seize. I've never heard that...but makes sense since you have reduced the friction coefficient.
I use anti seize too. finger tight plus 1/4 turn. I measured with a torque wrench and 1/4 is pretty much the same torque (using anti seize). I guess it wouldn't be too hard to simply measure how far a plug turns with and without the anti seize to get to the proper torque. Somebody want to try? I've already changed mine this season.
Hmmmm, I've been doing it the way I do it for a long while now. The only vehicle I've ever had spark plug issues with is the F150. And that's a Ford problem - they even came up with a "broken plug removal kit".
Even the V-10 in my van hasn't been a problem and those engines are notorious for it.
I figure I'll just keep on keepin' on. I just don't tighten the plugs all that much.
Now watch, I'll have a tough time changing them next time!
Hmmmm, I've been doing it the way I do it for a long while now. The only vehicle I've ever had spark plug issues with is the F150. And that's a Ford problem - they even came up with a "broken plug removal kit".
Even the V-10 in my van hasn't been a problem and those engines are notorious for it.
I figure I'll just keep on keepin' on. I just don't tighten the plugs all that much.
Now watch, I'll have a tough time changing them next time!
Makes me wonder how many people use a torque wrench when installing plugs. Me thinks not many! Finger tight and then a 1/4 turn here...anti seize or not
I have always believed that torque values go out the window when you use anti seize, which I do and will. So the 1/4 to 1/2 turn after finger tight will
Prevent over torquing.
I also read the NGK bulletin some time ago. It seems to me we, as a group, have encountered a couple dozen broken plugs due to threads sticking or rusting but, I don't believe, we've ever encountered a broken plug due to over torqueing with anti seize. I agree with @jetboater4life in that NGK is only trying to defer blame on the user as Yamaha did with the clean out plug issue.