Anyone make and sell parts with a 3D Printer?

[The Canuck]

Put the backing plate into Sketchup. Hopefully you are able to work off of that. If not, let me know and I can try to get another format for you. Again, greatly appreciated!!!!

 

[The Canuck]

To add to this... I would do the backing plate in black. Is there texture to the plate or can it be smooth?

I don't think the screw holes need to be counter-sunk as you had drawn. I am not sure if the screw holes need to even be put in, as I can mark and drill based off of the template I have. This would allow me to make the holes a little smaller if need be so that the screws bite the backing plate, and the fiberglass. My thinking being the screws are long enough to go through both, and with a bead of 3M marine silicone, this thing will be there for a lifetime. Of course open to other thoughts/input.

 

[The Canuck]

... and once this is done, I have another project for the boat that could use some 3D printing based off of this post.... https://jetboaters.net/threads/quick-release-lower-of-15-212x-waketower.6128/ (of course happy to contribute some money towards material, time, shipping, etc.). I need the "custom knob & tower rest", as we have to lower our tower every time we go out, to get under a low bridge. Already had one mis-hap with the tower puncturing the seat back... figure this would be a great way to have a spot so someone is not holding on to it, or if solo, I have a place to rest the tower. Just need to figure out the overall length and diameter. I can self-tap a hole and get a threaded rod to fit that matches the thread/pitch of the existing.

 

[Bruce]

@The Canuck, have you considered buying a small black plastic cutting board and making exactly what you want? Walmart likely has such a board on the shelf. I have used their white cutting boards to do similar.

3D prints typically are not solid but have interior infill at around 20% which makes it best to do all the holes and shaping in the design so those area will have extra material for strength. If I printed this it would have a textured surface on one side and visible lines on the other.

 

[The Canuck]

@The Canuck, have you considered buying a small black plastic cutting board and making exactly what you want? Walmart likely has such a board on the shelf. I have used their white cutting boards to do similar.

3D prints typically are not solid but have interior infill at around 20% which makes it best to do all the holes and shaping in the design so those area will have extra material for strength. If I printed this it would have a textured surface on one side and visible lines on the other.

Gotcha on it not being 100% filled. I am still good if you want to print it and include the holes. I don't think they would have to be counter-sunk since the screw head is resting on the remote and not the backing plate.

 

[Bruce]

since the screw head is resting on the remote and not the backing plate.

Do the screw holes in your backing plate design line up with screw holes in the remote?

Would that not have some of the screw(s) in the factory round cutout that goes through your hull?

 

[Bruce]

@The Canuck, I started a print of your Sketchup file. Will post a picture in a few hours.

 

[Bruce]

@The Canuck, this shows the inner fill.

 

[The Canuck]

@Bruce - Having never seen something like this before... I am in awwww... So very cool

 

[Bruce]

@Bruce - Having never seen something like this before... I am in awwww... So very cool

This is the outcome. Plenty of strength. Did you intend it to be 3/8” thick?

I think 3/16 would be sufficient if you want to revise the design.

 

[The Canuck]

This is the outcome. Plenty of strength. Did you intend it to be 3/8” thick?

I think 3/16 would be sufficient if you want to revise the design.

I had 3/8" as thats what was provided to me via Fusion if I wanted to have a spacer behind the remote. I also wasn't sure how stable the plate would be if it was less. If you can do 3/16", feel is will be plenty strong, and don't mind, I am happy to try that. Thank you so much!

 

[Bruce]

I had 3/8" as thats what was provided to me via Fusion if I wanted to have a spacer behind the remote. I also wasn't sure how stable the plate would be if it was less. If you can do 3/16", feel is will be plenty strong, and don't mind, I am happy to try that. Thank you so much!

I removed the flat edged 4mm from the bottom and am reprinting.

 

[The Canuck]

So very excited to get back to the lake in a couple weeks to complete this install. Again so very appreciative.

 

[captainhook]

@Bruce - Having never seen something like this before... I am in awwww... So very cool

You should see it work in person. I'm still amazed by mine.

 

[Bruce]

Much thinner. I think plenty strong.

 

[The Canuck]

Definitely like the thinner version better. Thank you for doing that. Let me know what I owe ya.

Also, what are your thoughts on doing a couple cylinders similar to what I posted via the link? I know I would need to get you the diameter and height, as well as the hole size, but I think this might be a perfect scenario for something like this.

 

[The Canuck]

I wanted to post an update... I received the two spacers from @Bruce last week (I was on vacation prior to that), and got down to the boat this past weekend. The thinner version was definitely the way to go. It was essentially the perfect depth (sort of by accident). Though if I did it over again, I might add 1mm in overall thickness to it. The back of the remote protruded just a hair past the back of the bracket. This was no fault of Bruce. Due to the slight curvature of the swim deck riser, I was able to gain the tiny bit of space needed. Thank you again Bruce for the help. This was fun to create and see it come to life. I did clean up the sealant after I took the photos, so its much cleaner looking now, before someone comments .

 

[captainhook]

Is it PETG? If so, that should flex a bit and I've used it successfully a few times on not-so-flat surfaces. You could also use TPU which is one of my favorite materials, super flexible.

 

[Bruce]

Is it PETG? If so, that should flex a bit and I've used it successfully a few times on not-so-flat surfaces. You could also use TPU which is one of my favorite materials, super flexible.

It is PETG.