Before I am dropping $2500 on Stereo hardware...

[Hezi]

I am planning to connect a 3rd battery in parallel to the house battery. Today the rest of the installation supplies should come. Hopefully I will be done this weekend and I'll post pictures

 

[Hezi]

Last night I started install preparation. Took me good 4-5 hours since I had to plan everything based on pictures I took several days before:

With those pictures I drilled and prepared the seaboard that will house the amps and equipment. It is HEAVY. I will see what I can do to add additional support. Here is what I came up with. Hopefully I got it right...

 

[Hezi]

So, most of the work is behind me. I was doing several project at the same time; 2nd bilge pump, flags holders, 3rd battery, etc. I will post pictures of it all when it's all done.

I did get stuck on the following:
Does the 2015 Connext has a remote wire? I really don't feel like adding another on/off switch for the amps.
Also, can I place a tower speakers in a forward position? The tower is behind the driver and I wanted the added sound to benefit the driver position first

 

[rsg1963]

So, most of the work is behind me. I was doing several project at the same time; 2nd bilge pump, flags holders, 3rd battery, etc. I will post pictures of it all when it's all done.

I did get stuck on the following:
Does the 2015 Connext has a remote wire? I really don't feel like adding another on/off switch for the amps.
Also, can I place a tower speakers in a forward position? The tower is behind the driver and I wanted the added sound to benefit the driver position first

Not 100% sure about the Connext except that a primary wire connected to the house bank definitely cuts-off the Connext when removed. I know this because I am doing a major overhaul of my battery banks and the wiring currently.
I CAN answer the tower speaker question. The answer is yes. But leave enough slack in the speaker wire to change them back to rear-facing in case you hate it. Generally speaking the speakers face rear-ward to benefit the person(s) being towed so they can enjoy the music from 50 feet behind the boat, but there is no reason they can't face forward to blast the captain! lol

 

[Hezi]

Not 100% sure about the Connext except that a primary wire connected to the house bank definitely cuts-off the Connext when removed. I know this because I am doing a major overhaul of my battery banks and the wiring currently.
I CAN answer the tower speaker question. The answer is yes. But leave enough slack in the speaker wire to change them back to rear-facing in case you hate it. Generally speaking the speakers face rear-ward to benefit the person(s) being towed so they can enjoy the music from 50 feet behind the boat, but there is no reason they can't face forward to blast the captain! lol

Thanks for the info. I am installing WS 420 BT and I ended up facing the tower speakers rear/downward so I can speak through them to the people being towed.

BTW, is the tower tube hollow through? I haven't wired them yet. Man, I was working since Thursday eve and that all weekend long since Friday after work. I've got so much fiberglass in my arms, I feel like a cactus. I read online that tape helps and managed to pull many needles out by taping my arms and pull it slowly. I definitely gave my family a comedy show...

 

[rsg1963]

Thanks for the info. I am installing WS 420 BT and I ended up facing the tower speakers rear/downward so I can speak through them to the people being towed.

BTW, is the tower tube hollow through? I haven't wired them yet. Man, I was working since Thursday eve and that all weekend long since Friday after work. I've got so much fiberglass in my arms, I feel like a cactus. I read online that tape helps and managed to pull many needles out by taping my arms and pull it slowly. I definitely gave my family a comedy show...

Also, very cold water helps by closing the pores and not allowing the fibers in further. Towers are hollow, but get thin fishing tape to pull the wire through, it's not totally smooth in there. Maybe use dish soap a little to help. I used heavy ga. speaker wire with this coating on it that was grippy so I had to lube up! lol
Also keep in mind how far inboard you place the tower speakers as they become a great source of cussing from both the captains and the crew (ask me how I know). I wish I had mine out just a couple more inches. Now my warning when people board is "anytime you are bending over near the captain chairs, remember the speaker boxes right above them."

 

[Hezi]

Also, very cold water helps by closing the pores and not allowing the fibers in further. Towers are hollow, but get thin fishing tape to pull the wire through, it's not totally smooth in there. Maybe use dish soap a little to help. I used heavy ga. speaker wire with this coating on it that was grippy so I had to lube up! lol
Also keep in mind how far inboard you place the tower speakers as they become a great source of cussing from both the captains and the crew (ask me how I know). I wish I had mine out just a couple more inches. Now my warning when people board is "anytime you are bending over near the captain chairs, remember the speaker boxes right above them."

Here is the picture of where and how I placed the tower speakers. I didn't drill the tower yet. I am going to install a WS420BT equalizer and among added control, I can speak through the tower speakers, so I positioned them to the rear and somewhat downward. They are to the side so I don't foresee a collision course for captain or passengers. Here is a picture:

 

[scokill]

I did similar. Same amps, 2 channel bridged as well. But 8 MX650s and the M10IB5. It sounds $1750 better, which is about what I spent. Bought factory reburbed amps to save $500 or so. Put that money into quality Knukoncepts wires throughout. I think if i were todo it again, i would put the amp board in the battery compartment and just run the RCA from the helm to there. Cheaper than 0 gauge power cables.

I had my first amp in the battery compartment and not the most hospitable and easy accessible environment. Even though the cable is expensive, I'm so glad I moved my amps behind the helm. Seems cooler and easily accessible when tuning or diagnosing issues.

 

[Hezi]

Here are some pics for the third battery. Note the battery disconnect and large ANL fuse just before the the two 0 gauge cables leading to the helm. In the helm, I broke the power to 3; 2 amps and a fused power distribution block for future installs (GPS, lights, etc). It's still a little messy since I puled a power line just to turn the top amp on but it'll be all nice and tight when I'm done. Just need to figure out that remote power situation which will power both amps and the WS420BT.

 

[Hezi]

I had my first amp in the battery compartment and not the most hospitable and easy accessible environment. Even though the cable is expensive, I'm so glad I moved my amps behind the helm. Seems cooler and easily accessible when tuning or diagnosing issues.

It's $50 including the large fuse from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017VBMHRO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[scokill]

It's $50 including the large fuse from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017VBMHRO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Someone else cited expense....I agree it's not expensive relative to the investment.

 

[Hezi]

This is review of my install; My system consist of 2 JL amps (8 and 4 channels), I replaced all the original speakers with JL MX650, and added 2 of the same speakers to tower in a Kicker enclosure. I also added an EQ (WS420BT). The tower speakers are facing to rear and down. The JL hardware is superb. I would advise against the Wet Sound EQ. I am getting noise from the speakers even when no music is playing. I had to take my boat to a stereo shop that blamed the EQ. It was replaced under warranty (thank you Creative Sound - great customer service). If you want to control boat and tower speakers volume (main reason for the EQ), consider buying a seperate volume knob from JL to control volume for each amp, and consider a JL Bluetooth mogul and bypass the boat head unit all together. Not sure about you, but I listen to BT exclusively on the boat. In this current setting, I had a dead area by the driver / passenger. Last weekend, I added a pair of MX770. Now the sound is a lot fuller throughout the boat. I was sure I will have to add spacers, but to my surprise, I had a perfect fit. Not tat the surface in this area is not 100% flush, so go easy screwing the speakers into place.

About cutting holes in the fiberglass. I tried the Dremel tools Dremel 565 Multi-Purpose Cutting Kit, and Dremel 678-01 Circle Cutter and Straight Edge Guide. I used it for cutting the sub hole. This time, I marked the hole using the template and a sharpie, drilled holes around the outlines circle, and last, I used the Dremel bit in a cordless drill to cut the hole. I suggest you tape the piece you about to remove or it'll fall inside the hull and forget about getting it out. Here are some pics:

 

[Julian]

About cutting holes in the fiberglass. I tried the Dremel tools Dremel 565 Multi-Purpose Cutting Kit, and Dremel 678-01 Circle Cutter and Straight Edge Guide. I used it for cutting the sub hole. This time, I marked the hole using the template and a sharpie, drilled holes around the outlines circle, and last, I used the Dremel bit in a cordless drill to cut the hole. I suggest you tape the piece you about to remove or it'll fall inside the hull and forget about getting it out. Here are some pics:

I prefer to use hole saws....much easier, faster and cleaner (although finding ones for 6.25" holes isn't easy, so JL 7.7s are harder to do).

Also, always have a helper who is operating your biggest baddest (recently cleaned out) wet/dry vac....it will save tons on clean up (heck...use two vacs and helpers if you can!)

 

[Hezi]

I used a cordless drill in field condition. After driving few miles, all the dust flew away. No biggi but I totally agree with you on the vacuum (or water sprayer to wet the dust and a hose to clean)

 

[swatski]

x2 on hole saw and a vacuum. Most hum/hiss issues seem to be related to grounding - EVERYTHING stereo to a common ground, I know that was my experience. Zero issues since.
https://jetboaters.net/threads/humming-noise-after-amplifier-install.18026/page-2#post-325662

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[Mainah]

x2 on hole saw and a vacuum. Most hum/hiss issues seem to be related to grounding - EVERYTHING stereo to a common ground, I know that was my experience. Zero issues since.
https://jetboaters.net/threads/humming-noise-after-amplifier-install.18026/page-2#post-325662

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If I may offer that it needs to be the same path ground and robust as all ground wires in our boats are common unless someone has seperated each engine to its own battery.

 

[Hezi]

If I may offer that it needs to be the same path ground and robust as all ground wires in our boats are common unless someone has seperated each engine to its own battery.

I got 0 gauge wires leading to the helm powering 2 amps, EQ, and GPS. I added a 2nd battery to the house. I think the source of this evil is the stock head unit.

 

[Mainah]

I got 0 gauge wires leading to the helm powering 2 amps, EQ, and GPS. I added a 2nd battery to the house. I think the source of this evil is the stock head unit.

Have you cut the ground lead in the headunit harness and connected the ground from the headunit to the 0awg ground block? This is what I mean by the same path. It does make a big difference and is what fixed the same issue for others.

 

[Hezi]

I didn't. Not yet anyway. I assume this is a black wire and I assume the touch screen will work even if the power to the helm is off. Do you agree? I have a separate battery disconnect switch to the helm and wants to make sure I will loose no functionality should it be in the off position

 

[Mainah]

I didn't. Not yet anyway. I assume this is a black wire and I assume the touch screen will work even if the power to the helm is off. Do you agree? I have a separate battery disconnect switch to the helm and wants to make sure I will loose no functionality should it be in the off position

In your boat the ground wire on the head unit harness should be black, labeled gnd, in pin 8 of the harness with only two or three wires from the headunit to the boat harness. Since it is ground it should not be switched. If you added a ground disconnect I recommend that you never turn it off. Everything should function just as it did before except that you will have a much better and similar path to ground.