Beginner Questions

[Julian]

I wouldn't bother with trying to find a new trailer with rollers for your boat. I have had both and wondered why this boat didn't come with rollers....well...the reason is...you don't need them. Bunks work just fine, are WAY easier to maintain, and have less chance (IMHO) to mess up the bottom of your boat...simply said...no moving parts (for the most part).

 

[biffdotorg]

We are contemplating purchasing a new (18 or 19 when they come out) 242 Limited S E., and optioning it with a galvanized trailer, and hoping to be able to option the trailer with rollers (instead of bunks) and disc brakes.

There is good reason for bunks on a boat of this size and it is truly for weight. The weight of this boat is better supported by bunks rather than rollers. Rollers would add uneven pressure to one area of the hull over others, and that is the reason you will rarely see rollers used on anything of this size. Only for special occasions as noted above. As stated, you will be best served by bunks.

Same goes for disc brakes. Drums are used on almost all boat trailers, due to the conditions. Being dipped in water is the reason you will never find disc brakes on boat trailers. This is also the reason you don't usually see electronic brakes used instead of surge brakes. I was corrected on another forum, when a well respected member switched to electric brakes, and it turned out they worked quite well. But it is not going to be a recommendation for any longevity. So rest assured, surge/drum brakes will serve you well based on the amount of miles most of us have put on these trailers.

Good luck!

 

[hamsammy]

I just took my new 242X out for the first time this weekend. This is my first jet, and coming from a stern drive, I was concerned with low speed steering/maneuverability. I opted to have both the thrust vectors and lateral thrusters installed. If it was my first boat, I probably wouldn't have been as concerned with them as you don't have the experience of how your old boat handles (or how used to it you became). One thing to note, the launch I use does not allow power loading so I had to crank it on the trailer (shallow ramp). It's a lot of work because this thing is heavy.

 

[Zonie]

Thank you sir.

From what I have been able to see online, the 242 L S E has dual captains chairs, and they both swivel around.

I was thinking about looking up a CG Power Boating Squadron to find a safety course.

I will examine the trailer fails as you suggest.

Thank you for the welcome. Anytime you want to add more information, please feel free.

x2. Not a fan of the rollers. We do a lot of river trips and the bunks are very helpful in the current.

 

[Gray]

There is good reason for bunks on a boat of this size and it is truly for weight. The weight of this boat is better supported by bunks rather than rollers. Rollers would add uneven pressure to one area of the hull over others, and that is the reason you will rarely see rollers used on anything of this size. Only for special occasions as noted above. As stated, you will be best served by bunks.

Same goes for disc brakes. Drums are used on almost all boat trailers, due to the conditions. Being dipped in water is the reason you will never find disc brakes on boat trailers. This is also the reason you don't usually see electronic brakes used instead of surge brakes. I was corrected on another forum, when a well respected member switched to electric brakes, and it turned out they worked quite well. But it is not going to be a recommendation for any longevity. So rest assured, surge/drum brakes will serve you well based on the amount of miles most of us have put on these trailers.

Good luck!

Got on the bunks vs rollers. Thank you.

Interesting on your take on discs. I have several friends with fairly good size boats (Grady Whites) and they all use disc brakes,
Also, I already have an RV with Electric over Hydraulic Disc Brakes. No power goes to the brakes, just brake fluid as in all other discs.

The all-weather power unit (electric powered) on boats does not get submerged.

I also discovered that EZ Loader uses EoH Discs on their trailers, and that Yamaha has disc brakes as the standard equipment on the trailer for the Limited S E:

Trailer
* Painted Trailer with Swing-away Tongue: Tandem Axle
* Galvanized Trailer with Swing-away Tongue: Optional Standard (Tandem Axle)
* Spare Tire and Mount: Standard
* Disk Brakes: Standard
* Chrome Wheels & Aluminum Fender Step Plates: Standard
* Lights: LED brake lights
* Safety Chains: Standard
* Adjustable Winch Stand with Strap and Hook: Standard
* Height on Trailer: 10 ft. 11 in.
* Height on Trailer with Tower Folded: 10 ft.
* Length on Trailer: 25 ft.
* Length on Trailer with Tongue Folded: 23 ft. 9 in.
* Dry Weight on Trailer: 5210 lb.


Maybe that is a new development?

 

[Port0222]

@Gray before I purchased my boat -- I watched videos like this one countless times just so I understood what I was doing before I launched it the first time. Having driven I/Os before, I knew it was going to be different, but anything you can do to prep would be helpful. I took the boat to the middle of the lake and practiced slow speed turns. I tested out driving with 1 engine, popping the throttle, etc. I ended that day feeling VERY comfortable that I have never installed any steering enhancements and i don't feel like I need them. I am not sure what I am missing, but i also know that it is 1 less thing to worry about. So up to you -- but you might want to try it without any additions. see what you think before installing multiple steering enhancements.

good luck and enjoy!

CP

 

[Gray]

x2. Not a fan of the rollers. We do a lot of river trips and the bunks are very helpful in the current.

Good substantiated information from everyone regarding the negatives of rollers vs bunks. Bunks it is.

How about trailer guides at the rear of the trailer.

Are these useful or problematic?

 

[bronze_10]

Useful

 

[biffdotorg]

I stand corrected, that's awesome. I guess you can only believe the dealer stories up until the point that they finally add those items. Most will explain it as the MFG went the cheap route. Others just said it was due to water. Yup, comparing an RV trailer and a boat trailer are two different animals.

 

[biffdotorg]

How about trailer guides at the rear of the trailer. Are these useful or problematic?

Problematic only if you leave your bumpers or fishing rods hanging over the edge. Totally worth the price of admission. The only folks that will disagree probably never load in wind, current, or load at all.

 

[Gray]

Duh. Now I see them right on your trailer. I should have been more observant.

 

[PeterB]

I use these uprights with the lights as you show in the pictureon. They are very helpful in any current or windy conditions. We also load in the dark occasionally, and the lighted posts make a great target to head for. When the trailer is empty, I also find it easier to see where the trailer is.
I have found that they loosen up occasionally, but there was a lot of vibration on my trailer which was recently corrected. Either way, I would check the trailer for any loose parts routinely.

 

[Julian]

I just took my new 242X out for the first time this weekend. This is my first jet, and coming from a stern drive, I was concerned with low speed steering/maneuverability. I opted to have both the thrust vectors and lateral thrusters installed. If it was my first boat, I probably wouldn't have been as concerned with them as you don't have the experience of how your old boat handles (or how used to it you became). One thing to note, the launch I use does not allow power loading so I had to crank it on the trailer (shallow ramp). It's a lot of work because this thing is heavy.

I assume you backed your trailer in as far as you could? You want the fenders just at or underwater. Ideally you should be able to coast up pretty close to the bow stop.

 

[Gray]

@Gray I took the boat to the middle of the lake and practiced slow speed turns. I tested out driving with 1 engine, popping the throttle, etc.

Not knowing what I do not know, but reading as much as I can, I have a question regarding one engine operation.

Is there some danger of damaging the non-running engine (hydrolock, etc) while operating with only one in use? (For example, a problem that requires you to shut down one engine.)

 

[bronze_10]

Yes. U can flood the engine that is off as water will be forced into the motor. Never go faster than no wake speed unless the proper water hose is crimped off.

 

[Gray]

Yes. U can flood the engine that is off as water will be forced into the motor. Never go faster than no wake speed unless the proper water hose is crimped off.

So, essentially, if an engine fails (for whatever reason), both are considered inoperable at that point since continued use causes worse damage? (Not trying to be obtuse, just trying to understand.)

 

[MidnightRider]

You just need to clamp of the intake hose from the pump on the non-running engine or install a shutoff valves that you can turn off in such an event. Read through this in the FAQs that talks about towing without engines running (same goes for one engine not running) How to add shutoff valve. I carry two of these in case I need them. Hose Pinch Off Pliers

 

[Port0222]

@Gray you can go slow — no wake speed at tops, but as other stated, best to have a clamp. The issue usually surrounds being towed. Typically people towing you get impatient and want to go faster than no wake.

What I was referring to — if both engines are running — you can pop a throttle to get thrust in one direction.

 

[swatski]

So, essentially, if an engine fails (for whatever reason), both are considered inoperable at that point since continued use causes worse damage? (Not trying to be obtuse, just trying to understand.)

As they say, you can go as fast as you want with one engine, just shut off / clamp the intake line for exhaust/engine cooling and push the inoperable engine throttle forward, that prevents water pressure buildup in the pump.
Easy breezy.

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[Gray]

As they say, you can go as fast as you want with one engine, just shut off / clamp the intake line for exhaust/engine cooling and push the inoperable engine throttle forward, that prevents water pressure buildup in the pump.
Easy breezy.

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With an E series, and one engine inop/shutdown, will the throttle forward still provide the desired effect, or does engine off also shut off throttle controls?