Best way to wire an amp?

[JWPrendergast]

I just purchased a JL M600/6 which will power all 4 speakers in the boat, and eventually 2 on the swim deck. I've wired a ton of car/truck amps in my day, but boats seem to be slightly different.

I want to mount it behind the helm, to keep all the wire runs short (except power and ground). My question is on how to tie in the power to the battery shut off; do I just tap into the main wire coming out of there, or is there some way of tieing it into the cut off switch?

Im also guessing the ground goes straight to the negative terminal on the battery?

Are there simple kits out there for these (marine) applications; im not sure how many feet of power/ground id need.

 

[Julian]

They do make Amp connection kits....I bought one on EBAY....

 

[Williamsone46]

Buy a switch similar to a dual battery switch and tie it into that, it would also be nice to have the switch to shut of the power.

 

[David Analog]

I just purchased a JL M600/6 which will power all 4 speakers in the boat, and eventually 2 on the swim deck. I've wired a ton of car/truck amps in my day, but boats seem to be slightly different.

I want to mount it behind the helm, to keep all the wire runs short (except power and ground). My question is on how to tie in the power to the battery shut off; do I just tap into the main wire coming out of there, or is there some way of tieing it into the cut off switch?

Im also guessing the ground goes straight to the negative terminal on the battery?

Are there simple kits out there for these (marine) applications; im not sure how many feet of power/ground id need.

Eventually you will have dual batteries and a dual battery switch, if you don't already. The amplifier positive cable should go to switch 'C' or output post. It should not go battery-direct in a simple switch (non-ACR/VSR scheme). Fusing or a circuit breaker should go as close as possible to the supply termination and the switch should be very close to the battery(s).
The ground does go battery-direct.
Kits are typically automotive which have a long trunk line + and a very short -. That won't work in a boat. You need both the + & - to be the same or similar length. So you will be buying by the roll or buying a custom cut length. You'll have to measure in advance unless you want to error on the long side. A little extra is a good idea. And you have to consider the ups, downs, transerve, and front/rear routing plus where you'll tie up the cables. Use a string and temporary tape to make that route in the boat. Remove the string and measure the length.
You'll need 4-gauge wire. Get good quality wire....not the cheapest. If the wire weighs considerably less for the same length then avoid that wire....it's junk.
A company like Earmark Marine will cut to length and make up the battery/switch end terminations in advance before shipping. You'll get a quality physically crimped, soldered and heatshrunk termination. The amplifier end requires nothing additional.