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Bilge alarm Install--know if you've had a blowout!

@Bill D is right on! I've used all different types and "grades" of hole saws and never saw a difference. I've also NEVER had any chipping by doing the reverse approach as well....to the point that I no longer even bother taping (I know...sacrilege!)...but most of the items I've been installing all have a thick bezel on them anyway...so if there were a chip it gets covered up.

Also, it has been a while since I did this alarm, but I am 90% certain that there are no screws to attach it from the front....it has a screw on the main shaft on the back that holds it in place (which does mean you need to be able to access the back plate when installing it). I know this is true for the fume detector I just installed....

@KXCam22 A home depot alarm MIGHT work, but they are very sensitive to moisture....any water sloshing around in the bilge will set it off. Also they aren't designed for salt water and fail quickly (I know this as I used one under my fish tank salt water filtration unit in my last house and it died quickly in the salty environment). This alarm only goes off once the water reaches the height you install it at.....which I put in slightly higher than the bilge. So if the bilge can't keep up.....BUZZZZZZZZZZZ WARNING!!!!
 
This is where my buzzer ended up. Right underneath the passenger chair or in front of his/her feet.
 

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I am confused by the wiring diagram. The alarm shows a red and black wire and the float switch has 2 grey wires. The diagram also shows a fuse to be installed to the wire connecting to the battery but does not mention the size of the fuse. Can someone please enlighten ? Thanks.

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I think the fuse size might be on the switch itself, but I will check.
 
Thanks Betik
 
The 1 amp is for the alarm as per the diagram. How about the wire going from the float switch to the battery? The diagram shows the fuse but no details. Also the float switch has 2 grey wires and I have no idea which one goes to positive and which one goes to ground. That was my issue :)
 
Yes there is fuse from the switch too the positive terminal. I want too say it is 20, but I will need to check.
The grey cable do not mater. Because all the switch does is to allow for the current to pass through. If you put the fuse one the greys makes sure that is the cable that feeds the speaker. The other grey from the switch goes straight to negative.
 
Yeah. After reading this thread I bought the same identical one. Am confused about the 2 grey wires
 
The two grey wires both carry positive current. It doesn't matter which one goes to the battery vs the alarm. The float switch just makes the connection. So connect one grey wire to the battery, and one grey wire to the red wire on the alarm. Then connect the black wire from the alarm to a negative ground or - post on the battery.
 
Now it makes perfect sense :). Thanks Julian and Betik
 
The grey wire to the battery has a 20 amp fuse and the grey wire to the alarms has a 1 amp fuse. Correct ?
 
It sure would have made a lot more sense if they'd just made those wires both RED vs Grey!
I was scratching my head on how the circuit is complete before your explanation
 
I humbly recommend 12v breakers over fuses. If there is a transient issue, (or you cause a short by mistake when fidgeting around) it's much easier to push the button to reset it, vs finding and installing another fuse. and they are not expensive.

 
Can you just add a new buzzer where the engine alarm is under the dash?
 
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