FloJet
Jetboaters Commander
- Messages
- 1,130
- Reaction score
- 407
- Points
- 187
- Location
- Moore, Oklahoma
- Boat Make
- Yamaha
- Year
- 2016
- Boat Model
- AR
- Boat Length
- 24
Ok fellow Jet Boaters, I am creating this thread to lend my hand out to people that want the big stereo upgrades. Here in Oklahoma I have learned no one does it better than us. I can give you my current setup but you will have to PM for it. But I'm kinda frustrated on all the false and invaluable information folks are posting about systems and battery upgrades.
To start, my current system of 2 WS rev410 and 2 12' subs are a force to be recon with. Pound for pound, there are not many boats out there that can compete with it. Sure many can beat me with over stocked subs to get more base than me, but no way those same systems can compete with my mids/highs and best of them all RUNTIME. I am able to run pretty much 2 full lake days without breaking a sweat. These same systems utilize 4 to 6 subwoofers and can barely play consistent for 2 hours at a time. Shoot the Party cove just got started at that point. Everywhere we go, by sunset, guess who's boat is still rocking the cove?
So this first post will focus on battery upgrade and ohms. Sorry but no time for science lessons here. Just going to give you as much as answers as I can as this is an open book open teacher test.
I see everyone buying 12v group 27, 29, 31, and all that seems fine and dandy and all but what about the costs associated with them? It still baffles me that folks still go the 12v route. Sure you can get 12v batteries in around 105 amp hours to 205 amps but that will surely cost you an arm and leg and still not a true deep cycle battery which in turns will not give you all those amp hours they advertise. Many top notch systems here in Oklahoma will not utilize 12v batteries because of it not being a true deep cycle battery even thou they state that.
So the winner here is a 6v golf cart battery (True deep cycle battery IMO). I run (4) 235 amp hour batteries wired in series and parallel giving me a total of 470 amp hours. But to be honest with the efficiency of these 6v batteries, I believe that number is under rated. Down here you can get a 235 amp hour 6v golf cart battery for $100 with core exchange. So way cheaper than buying a 235 amp hour 12v battery. Cost is not comparable. Runtime is not comparable either.
Now the 2nd biggest problem I see with the system upgrades, is many are trying to run their systems on 2 ohms or even lower for the subs. I always ask why on a boat? Sure you can get deep bass at the cost of run time. With the right 4ohm stable amps and equipment, you can get the same output with more runtime as you are restricting the power draw. I would never run anything lower than 4 ohms on a boat. Less power draw means more play time.
So again if you have any questions about stereo upgrades or need advise, keep them coming and I and I'm sure other more educated installers will chime in and help you out. Good luck this winter on your upgrades and keep those photos coming.
Once we get the batteries and ohms situated with everyone, we can than move on to wire running, tuning of the systems and what music apps/cables to use as all these can make a big difference and I will get more in depth as the time comes.
To start, my current system of 2 WS rev410 and 2 12' subs are a force to be recon with. Pound for pound, there are not many boats out there that can compete with it. Sure many can beat me with over stocked subs to get more base than me, but no way those same systems can compete with my mids/highs and best of them all RUNTIME. I am able to run pretty much 2 full lake days without breaking a sweat. These same systems utilize 4 to 6 subwoofers and can barely play consistent for 2 hours at a time. Shoot the Party cove just got started at that point. Everywhere we go, by sunset, guess who's boat is still rocking the cove?
So this first post will focus on battery upgrade and ohms. Sorry but no time for science lessons here. Just going to give you as much as answers as I can as this is an open book open teacher test.
I see everyone buying 12v group 27, 29, 31, and all that seems fine and dandy and all but what about the costs associated with them? It still baffles me that folks still go the 12v route. Sure you can get 12v batteries in around 105 amp hours to 205 amps but that will surely cost you an arm and leg and still not a true deep cycle battery which in turns will not give you all those amp hours they advertise. Many top notch systems here in Oklahoma will not utilize 12v batteries because of it not being a true deep cycle battery even thou they state that.
So the winner here is a 6v golf cart battery (True deep cycle battery IMO). I run (4) 235 amp hour batteries wired in series and parallel giving me a total of 470 amp hours. But to be honest with the efficiency of these 6v batteries, I believe that number is under rated. Down here you can get a 235 amp hour 6v golf cart battery for $100 with core exchange. So way cheaper than buying a 235 amp hour 12v battery. Cost is not comparable. Runtime is not comparable either.
Now the 2nd biggest problem I see with the system upgrades, is many are trying to run their systems on 2 ohms or even lower for the subs. I always ask why on a boat? Sure you can get deep bass at the cost of run time. With the right 4ohm stable amps and equipment, you can get the same output with more runtime as you are restricting the power draw. I would never run anything lower than 4 ohms on a boat. Less power draw means more play time.
So again if you have any questions about stereo upgrades or need advise, keep them coming and I and I'm sure other more educated installers will chime in and help you out. Good luck this winter on your upgrades and keep those photos coming.
Once we get the batteries and ohms situated with everyone, we can than move on to wire running, tuning of the systems and what music apps/cables to use as all these can make a big difference and I will get more in depth as the time comes.