Bow Eye question

[212s]

I wouldn't be concerned about the bow eye...the strap would break before the boat is damaged I think.

Having said that, we get around most of the worry of winching by "double-dipping" the trailer and hand loading with lines. First I back in to submerge the bunks so they're wet, then pull up the ramp a few feet so the tops of the fenders are clear. This puts the rear bunks higher under the water and all I have to do is guide the boat into that opening and then pull on the line from the front - this centers the boat on the trailer for me. Then I hook up the strap and back the trailer in a few feet so it's mostly floating again but inside the forward bunks so it doesn't move from center (and doesn't float away), then crank it up to the bow stop. Only a few feet of easy cranking and it's always nicely centered on the bunks. Attach the safety chain and pull out of the water slowly so it settles on the bunks.

With just the wife and me, we can usually trailer the boat by hand faster than the guys beside us trying to power load. Some people look at us odd because I crank the tower maybe 15-20 full circles and it makes all that clicking noise. But there's hardly any weight on the winch since the boat is mostly floating so it's very easy and quick to crank it up. Doing it this way I don't need to do the "hard stop" to slide the boat up either.

 

[Betik]

@212s what you are describing works. My boat does not seem to like being cranked all the way to the bow stop. I almost always have to do a hard stop. As far as centering the boats, here is my center buck trick....

 

[swatski]

I wouldn't be concerned about the bow eye...the strap would break before the boat is damaged I think.

Having said that, we get around most of the worry of winching by "double-dipping" the trailer and hand loading with lines. First I back in to submerge the bunks so they're wet, then pull up the ramp a few feet so the tops of the fenders are clear. This puts the rear bunks higher under the water and all I have to do is guide the boat into that opening and then pull on the line from the front - this centers the boat on the trailer for me. Then I hook up the strap and back the trailer in a few feet so it's mostly floating again but inside the forward bunks so it doesn't move from center (and doesn't float away), then crank it up to the bow stop. Only a few feet of easy cranking and it's always nicely centered on the bunks. Attach the safety chain and pull out of the water slowly so it settles on the bunks.

With just the wife and me, we can usually trailer the boat by hand faster than the guys beside us trying to power load. Some people look at us odd because I crank the tower maybe 15-20 full circles and it makes all that clicking noise. But there's hardly any weight on the winch since the boat is mostly floating so it's very easy and quick to crank it up. Doing it this way I don't need to do the "hard stop" to slide the boat up either.

I would like to be around ramps where you can do that!

I guess it all depends on where one boats. If there is wind and current, one needs to "commit", or you won't land on the trailer.
Now, my new favorite, the Hazard's Ramp (under the GWB, NJ) - lol, that's another level. At low tide it becomes a narrow gauntlet with rocks and rusted iron pilings on both sides with current running perpendicular, literally need to gun the throttles pretty hard to (and aim well) to not end up hitting the rocks... And there is only one take to get it right or you are banging the hull against some rough stuff... Unless you want to wait for slack tide.

--

 

[Seoul76]

I wouldn't be concerned about the bow eye...the strap would break before the boat is damaged I think.

Having said that, we get around most of the worry of winching by "double-dipping" the trailer and hand loading with lines. First I back in to submerge the bunks so they're wet, then pull up the ramp a few feet so the tops of the fenders are clear. This puts the rear bunks higher under the water and all I have to do is guide the boat into that opening and then pull on the line from the front - this centers the boat on the trailer for me. Then I hook up the strap and back the trailer in a few feet so it's mostly floating again but inside the forward bunks so it doesn't move from center (and doesn't float away), then crank it up to the bow stop. Only a few feet of easy cranking and it's always nicely centered on the bunks. Attach the safety chain and pull out of the water slowly so it settles on the bunks.

With just the wife and me, we can usually trailer the boat by hand faster than the guys beside us trying to power load. Some people look at us odd because I crank the tower maybe 15-20 full circles and it makes all that clicking noise. But there's hardly any weight on the winch since the boat is mostly floating so it's very easy and quick to crank it up. Doing it this way I don't need to do the "hard stop" to slide the boat up either.

90% of the time I solo launch/load...i also double dip

 

[haknslash]

@Betik I heard back from Bill and he said the plates are stainless steel and either 1/4” or 3/8” thick. He also gave me a link to the original owners post on the other Yamaha jet boat forum Yamaha Jet Boaters • View topic - A member's 2011 242 Limited S Saga

 

[mrcleanr6]

any brand of boat you should be able to do a 3pt lift from and suspend the boat in the air from the 3 eyes. i worked at a marina for about 4 years......many years ago and our lift there was just that. electric hoists to lift a boat completely off a trailer using just the 3 eyes. i have lifted boats from damn near every manufacturer out there 35' and under and have never had an issue with any of them.

 

[Seoul76]

any brand of boat you should be able to do a 3pt lift from and suspend the boat in the air from the 3 eyes. i worked at a marina for about 4 years......many years ago and our lift there was just that. electric hoists to lift a boat completely off a trailer using just the 3 eyes. i have lifted boats from damn near every manufacturer out there 35' and under and have never had an issue with any of them.

Thanks all, was curious but then my curiosity turned into what happens if I rip the eye out ?

 

[Betik]

@Betik I heard back from Bill and he said the plates are stainless steel and either 1/4” or 3/8” thick. He also gave me a link to the original owners post on the other Yamaha jet boat forum Yamaha Jet Boaters • View topic - A member's 2011 242 Limited S Saga

Thank you

 

[Stan M]

I originally thought of this because I notice in my 2021 I have to put the trailer in deeper. I originally was doing it just like my 2013 with top of fenders just showing but with the new one I have to get trailer in a bit deeper. I crack much more than before, just wanted to make sure the bow eye was sturdy.

I too have to get my trailer in deeper, typically with the fenders a good 2-4" under water. That leaves about 7-10" of the front bunks out of the water. Have not yet had an issue power loading to within 6" to 1' of bow stop, then cranking her on tight. I don't even have to do the hard stop as it's snug against the bow roller.